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1 hour ago, ToNasty said:

Both amps have 120 amps max draw.  Ofc 4awg is good for 150 at 12 feet hes good 

Why bring yourself so close to max capabilities of wire guage?

What about a big inrush current when all amps decide to pull hard in a specific part of music. I know the 4g should and will handle a quick inrush, but....

 

He hasn't ordered anything yet, and bumping up to a 0 guage run, us what going to ad at most another $5-$10 to wire cost? Ok distribution blocks to take the 0. Being that he has to  order a block anyway and more than likely most blocks will take both 4 and 0 it's not adding cost there.

 

What if he decides to use a bigger sub amp down the road? Time to pull that 4 and run 0, so another complete purchase instead of a simple 5-10$ upgrade from the start 

 

I get you like to be right alot, but your logic here, in  regards to going bigger on main run is flawed.

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46 minutes ago, AaronT said:

Why bring yourself so close to max capabilities of wire guage?

What about a big inrush current when all amps decide to pull hard in a specific part of music. I know the 4g should and will handle a quick inrush, but....

 

He hasn't ordered anything yet, and bumping up to a 0 guage run, us what going to ad at most another $5-$10 to wire cost? Ok distribution blocks to take the 0. Being that he has to  order a block anyway and more than likely most blocks will take both 4 and 0 it's not adding cost there.

 

What if he decides to use a bigger sub amp down the road? Time to pull that 4 and run 0, so another complete purchase instead of a simple 5-10$ upgrade from the start 

 

I get you like to be right alot, but your logic here, in  regards to going bigger on main run is flawed.

Because that's max.  The amp isnt being bridged and it is being ran at 4 ohm.  He might see half that amperage 

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On 1/27/2020 at 1:20 PM, notorious97200 said:

Hi,

I would ditch the rear speakers, find or build some good adapters to run 6.5 in the doors, so you can get a serious set of component speakers. You'll bridge that amplifier to the front.

Keep it 4 gauge for the power, if the amps can accept that.

 

The box you can use in your car will be the main factor to help you choose from 10 or 12" subs.

Personally I wouldn't get Focal subs, but it's your choice, they're not bad. I would try to get a Fi sub for example, a single 12".

You're good !

 

I do like the idea of getting a good front stage. Just playing about with my stock HU earlier I did listen to just front speakers. But I felt that I preferred the rears to be playing but at a lower volume rather than not at all.

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17 minutes ago, Scones said:

I do like the idea of getting a good front stage. Just playing about with my stock HU earlier I did listen to just front speakers. But I felt that I preferred the rears to be playing but at a lower volume rather than not at all.

That's what I do with mine, JL 400/1 powering my Front Focal PS165's and my stock rear Bose speakers. Headunit set to Front Left stage and my rears are -1db through the JL DSP. A little rear fill that doesn't distract from the front. 

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm

2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical

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There is a lot to look at for "sound quality"    

 

To me from what it looks like is you picked focal because a lot of people say they are a sound quality driver.  Some yes.  But you need to look at the specs of the drivers and figure out what you want.  

 

For instance.  For a 2 way you want something that can play relatively low and high so you arent stressing the tweeter.  Usually a midbass with a low fs with have a wider bandwidth but wont be as efficient. Midbass with a higher fs will be more efficient but less bandwidth.  Mids with a phase plug will play higher with less breakup.  

 

Going to the tweeter.  A larger tweeter will have a lower fs making it so you can cross it lower (if your midrange cant get up as high)  theres many variables.  Not just brand of speaker 

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On 1/28/2020 at 12:11 PM, Scones said:

How do you think the Focal ps 165s are for sound quality? Have you heard better, I'f so what was the setup? 

They are actually the first pair of Comps I've had amp'd. Prior comps I had were RF Punch comps back in like 2010 and then some other Focal's in 2015/16. I think they sound really good, even set with no EQ, I only have mild EQ with them just messing around, need to learn more about EQing but that's a different story. 

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm

2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical

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so experiencuing my buddies system last night, i think ill opt for some P2D2-10s from rockford fosgate.

just listening to the twin r2d2-12 and feeling the bass from those convinced me.

He has a ford fiesta ST, pretty much same size and interior as my car but lil bigger engine.

 

The p2s seem to have good reviews all around, anybody here has had experience with the 10inch p2 before?

 

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