Cheap @ss batteries, whats wrong with these ???

[fishchris1]

4 hours ago, slowfkncar said:

Those expensive ass batteries won't fill a sealed cab with explosive/poisonous hydrogen gas like LA/FLA does during hard charging, id keep them under the hood or in a vented exterior enclosure.

They will be under the bed cover of my truck.

[fishchris1]

5 hours ago, reedal said:

Finding a parasitic draw is a simple process that you should do yourself since you've had others fail (likely due to not understanding what it is they're doing). This isn't too terrible of a writeup, and you should have no problems finding your draw.

 https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain%3famp=1 

 

As your battery choices, to each his own, I prefer quality over quantity, and I have family that uses those cheap walmart batteries for their vehicles (no aftermarket anything, just for the purposes of starting the vehicle) and after a year, sometimes two if they're lucky, they're replacing the battery again because it won't hold a charge anymore. I've been running the same XS Power under my hood for 5 years now with zero issues starting up or holding a charge, still rests around 12.9 when I havent driven for a few days.

We tried that once before, but the problem was, even before removing any fuses, the amperage loss seemed completely within normal tolerances, so that was inconclusive. None the less, with a high quality battery, or a cheap garbage one (and I've used both) either way, that truck will kill a battery dead in maybe 7-10 days of sitting. I'm driving it a lot more often nowadays, so that hasn't been a problem, but none the less, I'd think it should be able to go at least 3 or 4 weeks... 

[fishchris1]

2 hours ago, bmwking said:

it's the internet, you can say ass.  we won't tell your mom.

I just don't want to sound like I'm talking $#!+ 😀 Lol

[bmwking]

10 minutes ago, fishchris1 said:

I just don't want to sound like I'm talking $#!+ <img src="> Lol

shit man, not something you have to worry about around here

[AaronT]

Wet cells regular batteries are shitty for what we are doing 

 

That being said, nothing wrong with cheap ass AGM batteries like Duracell AGM, duralast platinum, any home auto parts store brand AGM.

 

AGM rest at higher voltage and are able to give more of a full charge and discharge to the audio system.

 

Now the difference in cheap auto parts store AGM batteries and brands like xs, full throttle, Northstar etc, is they provide more amp hours in the same case size 

 

Example, a group 34 size cheap AGM gives 45 amp hours, where a specialty battery gives 65 amp hours in same physical case size and has more durability and quality.

 

Now given that the got more power in same size, they really aregtvthst much more expensive at all.

 

The Duracell AGM 34group is 160$ so you'd be at 1.5x 150 to get same power as a full throttle 34

 

Duracell 45ah x 1.5 - 67 amp hours for $240 plus tax.

 

The full throttle will be no tax or core charge and gives 65 amp hours for $269.

 

So take into consideration that you'll need 2x as many batt terminals and more wire to wire 2 duracells as opposed to a single specialty Battery, then the total cost including install , the specialty Batts are indeed cheaper. As well as saving room.

[BassMunky]

Good info

[reedal]

14 hours ago, fishchris1 said:

We tried that once before, but the problem was, even before removing any fuses, the amperage loss seemed completely within normal tolerances, so that was inconclusive. None the less, with a high quality battery, or a cheap garbage one (and I've used both) either way, that truck will kill a battery dead in maybe 7-10 days of sitting. I'm driving it a lot more often nowadays, so that hasn't been a problem, but none the less, I'd think it should be able to go at least 3 or 4 weeks... 

Within normal tolerances doesnt kill a battery in a week, or even a month or several months. Two 8 month deployments within two years with the same battery sitting connected to the tahoe without being charged and it still hasn't been drained.

 

What's the year make and model of your truck? Not all vehicles will have the same standby current draw, especially the older the vehicle is, since they have less electronics to cause issues. I'd rather help you fix an actual problem than help you decide what equipment will be better in a poor power plant to begin with.

[Fish Chris]

13 hours ago, AaronT said:

Wet cells regular batteries are shitty for what we are doing 

 

That being said, nothing wrong with cheap ass AGM batteries like Duracell AGM, duralast platinum, any home auto parts store brand AGM.

 

AGM rest at higher voltage and are able to give more of a full charge and discharge to the audio system.

 

Now the difference in cheap auto parts store AGM batteries and brands like xs, full throttle, Northstar etc, is they provide more amp hours in the same case size 

 

Example, a group 34 size cheap AGM gives 45 amp hours, where a specialty battery gives 65 amp hours in same physical case size and has more durability and quality.

 

Now given that the got more power in same size, they really aregtvthst much more expensive at all.

 

The Duracell AGM 34group is 160$ so you'd be at 1.5x 150 to get same power as a full throttle 34

 

Duracell 45ah x 1.5 - 67 amp hours for $240 plus tax.

 

The full throttle will be no tax or core charge and gives 65 amp hours for $269.

 

So take into consideration that you'll need 2x as many batt terminals and more wire to wire 2 duracells as opposed to a single specialty Battery, then the total cost including install , the specialty Batts are indeed cheaper. As well as saving room.

First off, thank you very much Aaron. I really have read your response multiple times. And I will definitely consider cheaper, AGM batts down the road, when replacements become neccessary.

 

However, when you say, regular batteries are shitty for what we are doing, why ??? The single, cheap azz battery that I'm running right now, is actually doing a surprisingly good job ! As I say, I'm holding at least 13.2 parked, and 13.5-13.7 driving while beating my system close to max. Granted, my system is only around 2Kwts right now. So back to when you said, "Shitty for what we are doing".... Maybe you mean, you and a lot of others here, with many Kwt systems... but not me, at least yet

 

So here's the other point I'm trying to make.... I know that in nearly every aspect, those high quality batts (like Xs for an example) are better, maybe much better, than the cheap batts I posted the link for. I just have a very hard time believe they are 400-600% better, although the folks that are spending 400-600% more money on them, would probably like to believe that. This is where I need convincing. I'm not asking which batteries are better. I'm asking, which are the best value.

 

Long story short, just the fact that my stock, 12 yo alternator (130amp), running into one, very cheap battery is working so well as it is, I just can't believe that a 320 amp aftermarket alternator, running into 3 or 4 of those same batts, wont provide a HUGE improvement..... and that alternator + 4 of those batts, would only cost about $550. A Mechman 370 + 4 big Xs batts would be awesome ! But that would also be about $2000 ! 

[ToNasty]

Question. How much power do you expect to run all said and done? Because you may not need 4 batteries.  And more batteries takes up more space which is sometimes an issue 

[Fish Chris]

Well, that's a good question ? With car audio, I'm not sure when its ever "all said and done"  lol As sort of a long term goal, Id like to run 10Kwts someday. I could see 6 Kwts in the next year or two. Heck, with one more $300 Wolfram 2400.1 strapped to my current one, that would be 5K right there !

 

Space is no object. I have a 6 1/2 ft bed, with a locking, alarmed, fiberglass bedcover. Worlds biggest trunk