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Upgrade to 2/0 or stick with 1/0?


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I currently have about 45' of 1/0 welding wire to replace my current oversized 1/0 shca oversized cca. I'm changing up amps to a taramps md5000.1 or a md8000.1 and want to make sure I can handle the current draw of either of those amps. If I get the 5k I'll have enuff cash to get 45' of 2/0 welding wire ( which is enough for a single run, big 4 and two extra batteries ) . I can get the 8k and use my 1/0 welding wire but don't wanna start a fire lol. Have a 250a alt for now, gonna start saving for a real deal 500a soon. I have two 1000cranking amp interstate batteries under the hood and two interstate marine deep cycles in the back ( that's another upgrade in the future to either upgraded in the back or maybe just two lithiums under hood, not sure yet). I don't demo or compete but like to hurt ppls feelings once in a while and let her rip so I wouldn't be full tilt for too long so I'd probably never pull full amperage either. Probably helps I'd be wired to the sub at 2.67 ohms (and prolly upwards of 4 ohms after rise). 

 

So summary is, use my 1/0 and get the 8k or get the 5k and 2/0 ? I may be able to run dual runs of either , my truck isn't real long (1997 extended cab z71)

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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Personally I would do a dual run of 0 gauge over a single run of 00. Especially since it sounds like you already have a single run. A dual run of 0 will allow more current flow than a single 00, and be cheaper. Just my .02 ;) 

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30 minutes ago, Scotnemily said:

Personally I would do a dual run of 0 gauge over a single run of 00. Especially since it sounds like you already have a single run. A dual run of 0 will allow more current flow than a single 00, and be cheaper. Just my .02 ;) 

I got oversized 1/0 cca or I'd stick with that but it's inefficient. I can afford the 8k and a single run of 2/0 welding wire which is good for 450a and amp pulls slightly less than that max musical amp pull. That'll get me by till I can get a second run of 2/0. All my old 1/0 will go in my buddies truck since it's same vehicle. So not wasting anything , hate tossing good stuff out.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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17 minutes ago, Scotnemily said:

Sorry. Didn’t realize you had CCA. I personally don’t like it, but some people do. 

Yeah it's what I had funds for when needed wire lol. Yeah welding wire runs a bit smaller but like bmwking said it is ofc and designed for high draw. I can afford one run now and when taxes come in I have half a dozen Installs lined up so I'll have sum more okay money for my truck.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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I understand. I bought some cca wire when I was using the 6 channel PPI amp for my subs. I didn’t realize when I bought it was was getting cca. It worked ok but did start to get corrosion on the ends. I swapped it out once I saw that.

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4 minutes ago, Scotnemily said:

I understand. I bought some cca wire when I was using the 6 channel PPI amp for my subs. I didn’t realize when I bought it was was getting cca. It worked ok but did start to get corrosion on the ends. I swapped it out once I saw that.

Oh I soldered all my ends when I first got it and here in upper Michigan it made one winter and I had to redo EVERY end with a new end and I crimped and heat shrinked em and they have been fine since. Soldering them is a real PITA also, hard to get everything up to temp to take solder , damn strands would basically melt if u tried to heat all at once , had to heat the terminals, fill it with solder and while solder was liquid plunge the wire into the lug full of solder . NEVER AGAIN lol.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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Man it was late when I was doin my math or something! Had something in my cart I didn't see but I can afford to get 4/0 welding wire , how does that compare to car audio wire? Size wise I mean? I only need just shy of 30' and with 4/0 I don't think I'd need a second run for my setup , only the 8k and a will probably get one or two of the taramps 440x4s , may not be the best amp but I HAVE to have matching amps or it'll drive me crazy.

 

Think I read 600a at 600v for the 4/0, and my longest run from front battery back is just over 10'

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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