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Upgrade to 2/0 or stick with 1/0?


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So I ordered the md8000.1 2 ohm , the clip meter, 30' 2/0 welding cable , and 25 3/8 ring terminals for $599 . I'll get sum matching amps for my mids and highs and another run of 2/0 soon and should be set for a while. Now I'm back to refining my box so I can start building it. Almost can't wait to start, figure after rise the 3 15s will be seeing 5-6k , and that's enuff to rattle your brain in a extended cab truck. I just hope that the taramps amp holds up, I'll be giving it all the things it needs to perform correctly, I bought the amp from an authorized dealer so there is a 1 year warranty on it or I'd have never bought it lol. Spend $480 on an amp and cook it directly and I'd be flying to Brazil to beat someone with thier busted ass amp lol.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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7 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

Man it was late when I was doin my math or something! Had something in my cart I didn't see but I can afford to get 4/0 welding wire , how does that compare to car audio wire? Size wise I mean? I only need just shy of 30' and with 4/0 I don't think I'd need a second run for my setup , only the 8k and a will probably get one or two of the taramps 440x4s , may not be the best amp but I HAVE to have matching amps or it'll drive me crazy.

 

Think I read 600a at 600v for the 4/0, and my longest run from front battery back is just over 10'

4/0 welding should, in theory, be close to car audio 2/0.

 

i would do a 2nd run with your amps.  just for a ballpark idea, at max draw the 8k alone will pull 800 amps.  now, you may never have it maxed out or the voltage to support it or have it wired low enough to do that, BUT that's the max draw ability, i wouldn't want to spend all my hard earned cash and time on that equipment and setup and then have it be my wiring that's choking off my system.  rather than going bigger in the wire to 4/0 welding, can you afford to do 2 runs of 2/0 welding?  check and see waht the current abilities of that would be comparatively

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Yeah it says ( from memory so may be wrong) 396 max music Amos, and just under 800 for some wave amps, which I'd figure is like burping a 40hz tone. So bottom line I need to supply it with atleast 400a rated wire to be safe, but I was already thinking the same thing, run a second run of 2/0 and be able to hold 900a without catching fire . My power wire is in my frame so it's easy to access and add to when I get a second run. I think the 4/0 was only good for like 600a so it's more cost effective to do a dual run of 2/0 which can carry 450a. Just can't do it all at once but it'll happen soon and I'll be able to use it moderately till then, can't crank it up anyways cause the subs r brand new and need to soften up anyways so works out pretty well honestly. Thanx everyone for yalls input and advice.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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12 hours ago, Scotnemily said:

Sounds like you go a plan. I look forward to seeing this progress. Please take pics :) 

Will do, only thing I have done so far is take out rear seat and build a platform to work off of, have to redesign my box now tho to compensate for more power, went from 144sqin port to 206sqin so good thing I didn't start building yet.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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16 hours ago, ehall8702 said:

Yeah it says ( from memory so may be wrong) 396 max music Amos, and just under 800 for some wave amps, which I'd figure is like burping a 40hz tone. So bottom line I need to supply it with atleast 400a rated wire to be safe, but I was already thinking the same thing, run a second run of 2/0 and be able to hold 900a without catching fire . My power wire is in my frame so it's easy to access and add to when I get a second run. I think the 4/0 was only good for like 600a so it's more cost effective to do a dual run of 2/0 which can carry 450a. Just can't do it all at once but it'll happen soon and I'll be able to use it moderately till then, can't crank it up anyways cause the subs r brand new and need to soften up anyways so works out pretty well honestly. Thanx everyone for yalls input and advice.

I think that's completely backwards 800 amps on a steady continuous sine wave is harder than dynamic amps  in music 

 

That should be the other way around music is quick bursts on in-rush current. Quicker little burst of current that last a few milliseconds a wire can take more amps than steady sine waves that pull current that's lasts over a few seconds

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On 2/23/2020 at 12:28 PM, ehall8702 said:

Oh I soldered all my ends when I first got it and here in upper Michigan it made one winter and I had to redo EVERY end with a new end and I crimped and heat shrinked em and they have been fine since. Soldering them is a real PITA also, hard to get everything up to temp to take solder , damn strands would basically melt if u tried to heat all at once , had to heat the terminals, fill it with solder and while solder was liquid plunge the wire into the lug full of solder . NEVER AGAIN lol.

 

On 2/23/2020 at 12:05 PM, ehall8702 said:

Yeah it's what I had funds for when needed wire lol. Yeah welding wire runs a bit smaller but like bmwking said it is ofc and designed for high draw. I can afford one run now and when taxes come in I have half a dozen Installs lined up so I'll have sum more okay money for my truck.

Ofc is ofc. "Designed for high draw" is just thick guage ofc wire. Nothing special in design between 2/0 welding cable vs 1/0  audio ofc, or whatever guage size is identical vto the 2/0 welding cable, they will handle same current draw.

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There definantly is a difference, but I have no science to back it up. There is a reason they use different strand diameters and counts in different applications. Have read some things that electricity runs on the surface of the strands instead if through the strand itself ( again don't quote me just sharing what I read somewhere). I think the amp rating is higher over longer distances with bigger strands but less efficient (as in voltage drop, but that doesn't mean much when ur pushing 600v from a welder)

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2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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