AaronT Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Well jeeze, I'm going off info in initial post. Now you cone back with extra info and want to insult people for not reading your mind prior to answers. Guess what? Your lucky if those power bastards are even kicking out the same amperage as the stock alts did. And again, here's the thing. If a car comes with a 230 or whatever size alt it does, then it requires that size. It's not "extra space" to "load it down with Amps" so you still need to take into account the extra demand you're putting on them As far the subs, they do change impedance when the cone moves, that's what they are supposed to do. As far as Amps, those things can pull an in-rush current of over 400 aps up to 500+ amps. But you seem to know it already.as you're a luxury car mechanic that couldn't figure this basic stuff out. Who indeed is still clueless about the capabilities of a stock electrical system with a cheaply built alt from power bastards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Sorry if I insulted anyone, that was not my intention. I just wanted some "out the box thinkers" to input and see if I had missed anything. I have always ran sounds in these type of cars and have never seen this type of problem. I used to abuse an SAZ3500d in my old setup in the 2003 and never had a problem. Used to bank about all the time and never had a power problem. Had it running for 6 years. 1 agm and 1 quality power alternator. Even back in the Hifonics Zed days, We used to load Hifonics, Lanzar, Autotek, etc up in cars with 2 bass amps and regular 120A alternators and run group 31's or 6v golf cart batteries and pound for days. I am aware these amps are class D now, but should be more efficient. I do know people with similar setups as mine that have duplicated my setups but never seem to have any problems either that I know of. I think that bad SA 12 was the problem or either the amp being mounted to box. It's doing fine now so I guess I will leave it. Tired of fooling with it. If it does have a problem again, I will just remove everything and take it back to stock. Probably getiing too old for this stuff anyway. Thanks for everyones input and suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 4, 2020 Report Share Posted March 4, 2020 Jesus. If The amp wasn't shutting DOWN from low voltage, then voltage didnt do it. We are in a 12volt world after all. Hell, I'd run in the 10s all day. No amo probs. You guys and your always needing to stay at 15v shit...relax. But op, impedance is GOING to change when you push on the cone. Unless you see a dead short, it's fine so something else is up. Your old 3500, if it's a older one, is a fucking tank. A great board. But the 4k should be good to go also. If your driver was fucked up, your amp should have protected. Soooo good luck, but I doubt that's the issue. and needing a HO alt and 40 bats for 200 amps is just fucking ridiculous. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2020 The driver was definitely the problem. I have had it cranked up now for 2 days and no problems. Voltage is still in 14's staying above 14.1 when it's pounding. I never suspected voltage even though I got slammed about it. This setup has never given me any trouble, even for 6 years in the old car. The only difference is another battery added and a super cap bank. The woofer actually had a sweet spot where it showed a short. I was aware that moving the cone would change resistance slightly. So far so good. Thanks Kyblack76. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Update. Been jammin all day yesterday and today. Not a single problem. Power is great! I don't know guys, I know some of you guys are experts but now......It's hold on like a champ! I think I am going to stay with the saz series from now on. I'm going to send these scv's to amp lab and sell them when they get back. I probably don't even need them. This saz does great anyway. Should have never tried to "Upgrade" to cap voltage. Waste of time for me I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Glad you got it up and running again. You have a shit ton of nice equipment in amps. I would like to see better wire management. What you have it those pics is pretty messy in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted March 8, 2020 Report Share Posted March 8, 2020 Hey man, if your holding steady voltage with them monster Amps, hell yeah. Rock on. I guess them foreign rides are managing power requirements much more effectively than our domestic rides. I needed a ho alt just for a t1500-1, t600-4 and t400-4. I wasn't getting serious drops, I was getting 14.7 while running at speed with headlights and heater on and drops to 13.8 full tilt. I mean a whole volt. But still over a volt from danger zone. Maybe it's just my OCD, but I like to see that voltage stay right at 14.7 In my Grand Prix, I run dual t2500s on 3 power hx2 12s d4's. I'm getting about 2.1 at amps I really had to beef up that electrical to keep up. Also got 2 t600-4s in there as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 I contacted Mike Singer and he said he couldn't build one for that type of alternator. I TRIED! He just responded to me on Friday. The problem is there is very little room in that car to add 1 anyway. By the time they added those twin turbo's to it, you can barely work on it room wise, let alone, add anything to it. SMH. I could make a custom bracket to hold a universal gm type but would have to do some serious modification. Probably not worth it for this car. I may have someone build me a serious trunk setup with both scv's in the future but I need to see what car is best for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Also, you may be right on that alternator thing. My buddy has an Avalanche with some alternator from an ambulance. it's supposed to be like 200a or something like that and he can't even keep power to a Diamond 1000 without voltage drop. He has like 2 group 31's in the rear and an isolated optima in the front. His wiring was done professionally in Roswell, Ga. It seems to be ok to me but you never know. He doesn't have supercaps or anything, but he has something like those cheap raptors I had in my first pics. All I am basically saying is, I have seen these domestic cars and trucks with sounds in them and claim to have these alternators that are above 100A, but I think they are over rating them and I think the german's are underrating them. I did have a Jag with music in it and had a similar setup with a rewound alternator to put out 220A max (forgot who wound it for me), and it worked like a charm, but it really was a Ford setup, engine and accessories. Old XJR 1998. I used to blow the doors off that thing. Removed the back dech and put a grill across it. Looked factory but breathed so well, no trunk rattle.LMAO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted March 9, 2020 Report Share Posted March 9, 2020 Contact brand x electrical. Message through Facebook. Jonathan Patrick is the man you want to speak to. He will build anything Bug guys like singer sometimes just don't want the hassle of difficult stuff cuzz they are Soo big and have tons on thier plate In last pic that's a 300 amp peaking at 340. All his alts do over ratings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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