sparkymedina Posted March 1, 2020 Report Share Posted March 1, 2020 what aaron t said. its most likely your electrical. those "caps" arent doing anything to your electrical. if anything its probably hurting it. look up "super caps" thats probably what you want. stock alt might not be enough to support the power youre demanding. is it really 320a? stock? if so then that pretty crazy lol and ya those wires look pretty cheap. especially that ground. ive seen and used stuff that looks like that and its not true 1/0. you need an electrical make over lol and how are you setting your gains? how do you know for a fact youre only "running 2000-2500w max" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Again everyone, please understand that this was the old setup, The raptor caps (2) you see have been removed and replaced with a maxwell bank of 6 3000f capacitors. In the picture the voltage is at 11.9 because I had just pulled the car out from sitting for about 6 months. When car is off voltage does hover at 12.4 float. The alternator is definitely 320a. more than enough for this setup. I am not necissarily a newbie to car audio. The box is secured down and amp is bolted. to box securely. with 2 agm group 95r's there is more than enough reserve. These cars have a very strong electrical system, as I said in my previous reply, I have run the saz 3500d with 1 agm in the past in an older bmw with an alternator of 320A in a 2003 760li and have never had a problem with electrical. No lights dimming at full tilt and voltage never drops below 14. In this car, voltage remains so steady that I am even surprised. I will take subs out today and inspect the wires and see if there is something touching. I am very surprised that the amps don't go into protect mode before this burn up. I will be putting 3500d back in to see if this problem continues. In my opinion, if the wiring is good to the sa's and they ohm out ok, I am going to believe that something is shaking loose due to the amp being mounted on the box. I will have to build an amp rack. This is really a temporary setup to see the performance of the subs in this trunk. Historically I have had subs facing the rear and it definately outputs more but I don't like the trunk rattle. I plan to dynamat the trunk and have a custom box built. I am not convinced that there is a power problem at all. This is also happening when music is not at full tilt. This happens when music is at a comfortable level. This never happens when music is at full tilt. The power wire is also not cheap. This is not wire marketed as 1/0 gauge and has half of it sheathing and very little copper. There is obviously something happening where either the speaker output is somehow seeing ground or there is something being rattled within the amplifier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Your BMW or Benz does not have a factory alt that big. Even if so, Which is again highly unlikely. It's going to be PCM controlled and it's going to usje at very low Amps. And only charge when car calls for it. Not constant like a aftermarket HO with bypass does Either way if it is true 1/0 it's still not enough, you need big 3, and 2 runs of that 1/0 to rear. Exactly what brand is the power cable? It looks like cca, not saying it's all insulation, but it appears to be cheaper copper clad aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 Also if that car has a 320 amp alt then there's a reason it does. It needs it. It's not just there for some guy to add 5k of amps aftermarket as an option. The car wouldn't grossly overshoot it's alternator size. They would match it to the cars current demand. And your adding a 100 amps easy to that demand. So you'll need a 450 at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronT Posted March 2, 2020 Report Share Posted March 2, 2020 I'm looking up the specs on those cars right now and they do not come with 320amp alternators. The 2010 has a 230 amp at max rpm p m controlled. And the 2003 comes with a 180 amp alternator, again PCM controlled and at max rpm. They both idle around 80-120 amps I don't know where you pulled that 320 figure out from. All it takes is 3 seconds of research to find alt size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Wow, you guys are something else. Quick to judge and smash. I hear you guys on the 1/0 Electrical. First understand that you have to read the setup info and see all of my info in the first post. I bought this car from a fried and IT Does have a 320A alternator. It has been rewound by PowerBastards. I had a similar one that I bought from Quality Power for my older 7. Here is a link to 1 that Powerbastards sells. https://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11358-320-HD1-4 In addition, I don't know where AaronT got his numbers from because even a stock Valeo alternator, not a bosch replacement is rated at. Here is a link for this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM-NEW-VALEO-ALTERNATOR-fits-BMW-550i-650i-750i-X5-X6/273852168081?epid=191584511&hash=item3fc2dc7791:g:otIAAOSwEppUPcGz My Mercedes has nothing to do with this post. But even if it did, it actually has a bigger stock alternator than the BMW. Also o.e. is Valeo. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/181078/Alternator-250A-New-439843/. I have seen people load these cars up with amps and crap and still have no power problems, but anyway...... First off, I must add that I am a luxury car mechanic by trade so Kind of know a little bit about the cars, lol. The key that AaronT is missing is that I had said in the description of the setup. The power management system has been put in "Emergency mode" by me. I have programmed it with one of my laptops that I use all the time to service these cars. Very easy for me to do this. It sets the alternator to charge at 85% but all of the time. This is basically bypassing the regulator. When it comes to these type of cars, the alternators are very similar to aftermarket ones in the sense that they are regulated and controlled by power modules that sense battery state and call on alternator when needed. I can change parameters within the power module and it can tell aternator to do whatever I want. It is not monitoring batteries at the moment. This can be dangerous if not controlled correctly because you can overcharge batteries and destroy them, That Is why I don't use lithium or LifePo batteries, but anyway, off topic again. I have an update for you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 I finally solved the problem so far. One of the SA's is bad. If you move it back and forth with an ohm meter, there is a significant increase in a sweet spot within it where it must be grounding out or something. I replaced it with another one from a spare box and I am back to life! I will have to send the scv's out to be repaired, but I am fine using the saz-3500d for now. Mobridge is doing great. Sound quality is great also. Thanks for all of your suggestions though. For SparkyMedina, I had also stated in my previous post that I had replaced the raptors with a Maxwell Supercap bank. Also, fyi to everyone, you must understand that the Batteries in these cars are in the trunk by stock. And remember, I have put in 2 instead of 1. The runs even with this power cable are lie 3 feet. Very low resistance and loss with this kind of distance, therefore 1/0 Gauge is probably overkill given the distance. I also do have if fused on amps and have it fused between power management. I will find out what brand the ground and power cable is. I was looking at it tadoay and the power is actually far bigger than the ground. Possibly 0 gauge or something. I do have more of it so Maybe I will replace the ground with it. This is pretty big wire, It barely fits in the amp terminal without shaving some of the copper. The sheathing definitely doesn't fit in the plastic hole like the ground does. I like it when it does. I also do have twin input adapters someone was talking about. The actually came with my 5000d when I bought it from someone. I don't think I need them with these short runs but I will look into it. I have been pounding all day testing everything and have yet to have a light dim. I have turned on the dash voltage meter in the cluster temporarily and it is fluctuating between exactly 14.5 and 14.1. It has not gone below that and I have been slamming, lol. I did actually build a little temporary amp rack today to float the 3500 above the 200.4 and it seems to do the trick. I will keep my fingers crossed. I will continue to monitor the situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 This is a shame! Damn toast! smh. Have to send to amp lab and explain this b.s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoudForeign99 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 Also, I did make a mistake in my info from the beginning, I can see that I said "stock 320A alternator" My fault. I should not have used the word "stock" nor when describing the converted battery box below the trunk floor. I apologize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted March 3, 2020 Report Share Posted March 3, 2020 powerbastards alts are junk just for an f.y.i ... and you still need a bigger alt my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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