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Does a h.o require a good battery?


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3 hours ago, Ipoksmote said:

DUDE  I seriously appreciate the time you took replying to me. I'll come back to this and read it so many times probably. Completley cleared it all up for me, thank you!

 

I've already got 1/0 all through my car,  and I asked him twice about the output of the alt. And twice he said max output  is at 1.3k rpm. 

 

I gotta read this again you cleared up so much for me, and probably for some other guys on this thread because I've found similar(ish) topics 

And I’ve never heard of an alternator generating full capacity at 1.3k rpms. I’m gonna have to look into that. Because even Mechman, DC, and Singer don’t even do that and they are the best alternators I can think of and the most expensive. I run a JS 390. Was gonna go with DC but it was almost $1000. The JS 390 was about $550 after shipping. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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I looked into it and the website says they do that. But I don’t believe it. Iraggi are good alternators but I’ve heard gripe about them before just like I’ve heard gripe about JS. I have one of the brands and both iraggi and JS are still good alternators but aren’t no mechmans, dc’s or singers. Never heard gripe about any of them top alternator companies. They are the best. And if them alternators won’t do that then there’s no way the companies below them produce a better product or they would be below them, they would be at the top.  

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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11 hours ago, 121gigawatts said:

And I’ve never heard of an alternator generating full capacity at 1.3k rpms. I’m gonna have to look into that. Because even Mechman, DC, and Singer don’t even do that and they are the best alternators I can think of and the most expensive. I run a JS 390. Was gonna go with DC but it was almost $1000. The JS 390 was about $550 after shipping. 

No it doesn't. Iraggi is just full of shit and overpriced.

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Do you want a good alternator with the build quality on par or better than mechman or Singer?

 

Get a brand x. Your 200 amp would have been a 250 that puts out 270-280 at 2250 rmp and 190 at idle. And it would be about $305 shipped

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11 hours ago, 121gigawatts said:

What kind of amp are you running? When I told you I was running about the same rms I was running a constant power amp at 2 ohms. A Rockford t1500 bdcp. Awesome amp. Pulled a lot of current but grade A amp and I would recommend it highly. 

Currently running the RF t1000 bdcp @1600rms

 

Bout to switch up to the CAB 2000.1 or the Skar rp2000.1

 

 

Also, yeah I'm starting to wonder about this whole iraggie alt thing. But ive already paid for it. Now I'm just waiting on shipping 

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1 hour ago, Ipoksmote said:

Currently running the RF t1000 bdcp @1600rms

 

Bout to switch up to the CAB 2000.1 or the Skar rp2000.1

 

 

Also, yeah I'm starting to wonder about this whole iraggie alt thing. But ive already paid for it. Now I'm just waiting on shipping 

How did you set gain?

 

If you used a multimeter and ohms law formula, your in clipping territory by setting that to Dyno or birth sheet.

 

If you used a dd1, your good.

 

If you set it to a test tone and multimeter you better set it to it's certified Dyno numbers. Not dynamic numbers

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44 minutes ago, AaronT said:

How did you set gain?

 

If you used a multimeter and ohms law formula, your in clipping territory by setting that to Dyno or birth sheet.

 

If you used a dd1, your good.

 

If you set it to a test tone and multimeter you better set it to it's certified Dyno numbers. Not dynamic numbers

My knowledge on this is...sub par.

 

But I watched 2 videos from MTX and from EXO on youtube and tried the best I could to tune gain with a cheap DMM. If I remember right it was something like 54V on a 40hz -10db test tone. I didnt even need a dmm. The amp made a whining noise whenever I went over 54v

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59 minutes ago, AaronT said:

How did you set gain?

 

If you used a multimeter and ohms law formula, your in clipping territory by setting that to Dyno or birth sheet.

 

If you used a dd1, your good.

 

If you set it to a test tone and multimeter you better set it to it's certified Dyno numbers. Not dynamic numbers

Sorry I didnt really answer you completely. 

 

I used ohms law and I didnt use 1600 to set it.. even worse (apparently) I used 2k to set it, as that's what my sub demands.

 

Edit--Just did the math using 1500 and I guess 38V is it...yay...less power... looks like I got more researching to do

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