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Secondary battery ground


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Hey guys, so it seems like everyone disagrees on whether you have to run a dedicated negative wire from your front to rear battery, or you can just get away with grounding the second battery at the frame/body. If i have my front battery grounded directly to the frame can i get away with grounding my rear battery there as well to run them in parallel? It’s an older truck so it’s a legit body on frame. 

 

What do y’all think? I’ve already put so much into this damn project and the thought of shelling out for another 16ft of 2/0 makes me wanna swallow a shotgun shell. 

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The only time front runs to negative are needed vis when running a huge SPL bank of batteries. And it's done in multiple runs of 2/0 or 4/0.

 

Runs of 1/0 have more resistance in them than grounding to rear chassis or frame.watch this video.

 

 

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Yes, your fine to ground to the chassis. Just be sure to use a wire brush to be sure your down to bare, shiny metal, use a good copper lug and tighten it down well with the correct size bolt. Repeat this on both ends and you will be fine. I then spray painted the area to prevent rust

 

I have 2 runs of 1/0 grounded to the rear chassis to a good body ground and then to the rear battery negative post. From there I have 2 runs from the battery negative to the amplifier's dual input, negative side

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On 4/5/2020 at 6:53 AM, max13b2 said:

Yes, your fine to ground to the chassis. Just be sure to use a wire brush to be sure your down to bare, shiny metal, use a good copper lug and tighten it down well with the correct size bolt. Repeat this on both ends and you will be fine. I then spray painted the area to prevent rust

 

I have 2 runs of 1/0 grounded to the rear chassis to a good body ground and then to the rear battery negative post. From there I have 2 runs from the battery negative to the amplifier's dual input, negative side

So spray painting the area once the lug is attached won’t effect connectivity? That’s the other thing i was curious about, I’ve ground paint off all my ground points and was wondering what to cover them with 

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No, the paint will not affect the connection.

I crimped down my bare copper lug to the wire very well, then used heat shrink and made sure the proper bolt was secured and tightened down well, using a lock washer. Once I was done I painted the entire connection with good quality black spray paint to prevent any rust on the bare metal showing.  It blends in well and does not hurt a thing.

The ground connection is between the chassis metal that you ground down, and the bottom of the copper lug that makes contact with the chassis, not the exposed top of the lug.

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I put a big booger of chassis or bearing grease on mine, but u can't see it unless ur under the truck. Paint doesn't stand a chance here in the UP , grease is the only thing that combats rust here and it doesn't last real long, I just remember to regrease my ground when I change oil and grease ball joints and such.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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I coat mine with bedliner or undercoat.

 

My connection is inside can, so it's more than enough.

 

My under hood grounds are to chassis, and bedliner has held up fine in northeastern Ohio winter's.

 

I usually try And get the backside of connection too if I can see or reach it

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