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3 hours ago, AaronT said:

what does a high-output alternator do differently than a regular alternator cuz they both put out the same voltage at Max charge 14.4 to 14.8

 

I like how a lot of people have to stop the electrical and they run 2k, 3k a etc, and because they don't see any voltage drop that significant they think their electrical is okay.

 

Amperage your amp is not getting the amperage it needs to make the tower it's wattage it is supposed to. Voltage has little to do with this situation yes it's good that your voltage is in the good range but that doesn't mean your amperage is good

This is one little detail that is not so little..

 

I'm just now finding this out. There seriously needs to be a manual or a instruction book for all this that sums everything up nice and easy.

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4 hours ago, AaronT said:

what does a high-output alternator do differently than a regular alternator cuz they both put out the same voltage at Max charge 14.4 to 14.8

 

I like how a lot of people have to stop the electrical and they run 2k, 3k a etc, and because they don't see any voltage drop that significant they think their electrical is okay.

 

Amperage your amp is not getting the amperage it needs to make the tower it's wattage it is supposed to. Voltage has little to do with this situation yes it's good that your voltage is in the good range but that doesn't mean your amperage is good

So then even if your voltage doesn't drop significantly, your amperage could still be all out of wack? How do you test for this? Just a multimeter at the amp? And how do you fix it? Bigger/ more batteries? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Amperage is a function of voltage and resistance....


What voltage are you getting at the amp?

Visually, how much is your driver moving? Is it into the limits of mechanical territory?

Have you verified the issue isn't a bad joint in your box?

Verified the issue isn't from something nearby?

And how were gains set?

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30 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said:

Amperage is a function of voltage and resistance....


What voltage are you getting at the amp?

Visually, how much is your driver moving? Is it into the limits of mechanical territory?

Have you verified the issue isn't a bad joint in your box?

Verified the issue isn't from something nearby?

And how were gains set?

It's my box. I paid $260 from a local dealer and I got something thays prefab quality. The 2nd day all the seams where coming undone, there was cracking, and joints are separating causing a massive leak in air. 

 

It's not braced or anything it's just solid 1 inch MDF all over and I'm pissed.  Port is super short too I've never seen such a short port before. Oh yeah it had Knicks and dings all over it when I picked it up..I was just so excited I through in my vehicle and didnt really pay attention..lesson learned.

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But will they accept returns even though you have used the gear? You might be able to return the amp without them knowing you used it but they might know you used the subwoofer or does that even matter? I’d still return the Skar subwoofer and amp and say I didn’t use any of it. They shouldn’t give you a hard time because they are trying to build up their name and keep their name good now. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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I just checked the numbers on that zvx and I thought they were higher. I wouldn’t put that subwoofer on a smart 3. The b stock u18 was the same price and can handle twice the zvx. Why didn’t you go with the u18? Plus that smart 3 is only $40 more than that rp2000.1d. You told me you cheaped out and went with Skar. But after doing the numbers on that, it looks like there was another reason you went with Skar. Why?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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