Mick Tricky Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Hi! Recently got a great system finished and was really enjoying it. Until I went to tighten the power hex grub screw and the wrench hit the amp chassis while in the power terminal. Blew the fuse to the amp and now when I try to replace it blows again. I figured that the fuse would protect it thats what its for right? Is my amp more than likely fried? Sucks I just got finished with the custom mount for thge amps and mounts I made for fuse block and distrubtion block also. Finally everything is wired up working perfectly . Power had got a little loose so just tightening it with a Lhex wrench instead of using my hex drivers! I did a continuity test at power and ground of amp no beep so not sure what to do. Any help or advice would be great! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGT_76 Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Internal amp fuse (on the amp), or external (at distribution block)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassMunky Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Fix it get new Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ipoksmote Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Be a dirtbag order a new one and return it with the broken one Goodluck with your problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 Use a dmm and check your distribution blocks. I'm thinking something else is the problem here. Also pictures help diagnose problems SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 4 minutes ago, Joshdashef said: Use a dmm and check your distribution blocks. I'm thinking something else is the problem here. Also pictures help diagnose problems Agreed. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will77530 Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 See if you have continuity between the power and chassis of the amp then disconnect the power see if it’s still there and keep going until you see if it’s just the amp or something external Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I would take the amp out and put a fresh fuse in it. I would make sure the battery wire fuse was out so it’s not hot (conducting) anymore. Then I would 86 the distribution block for a second so I could check that amp straight from the battery without the distribution block in the mix or whatever else is connected to it. Then hook up that amp and put the fuse back in the battery wire and then try it. The fuse popping when you give it juice is telling me that you are getting juice to the amp so the battery wire is still hot. Most likely. Because this is a hard one to diagnose over a screen. Like dude said, pictures of your car audio set up and said problem area too would help. Do you have a digital multimeter? “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted April 21, 2020 Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 But I know some crappy amps or amps that don’t put out a lot of rms (with a flat terminal input with square washers and screws) when the wires are touching the chassis if it’s, the amp won’t work. Like is it an amp that has a plug in battery terminal or a flat terminal with a screw? I need to know what type of amp it is too. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Tricky Posted April 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2020 I do have a multimeter and I checked for conituity everywhere no beeps so no short at or before the amp. I also removed the amp opened the case and looked for any burnt caps or mosfet but couldn't spot any also made sure solder didn't run when it got hot none seen. I have 2 other amps connected to distro block and they work fine. I think since it took me about 2 secs to get wrench out of grub screw it cooked it . Money is tight and might pull the dirtbag move but only at a dirtbag huge retrail store. Thanks for your help and any other advice or help would be awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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