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2014 dodge 3500 crew cab build nsv3 10


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Did u cut an access hole? Lol that's one way to do it for sure. Glad it came out for ya, better than destroying the box.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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Scrapped last box and built a new birch one and also added a set of tx69 skar audio 6x9s to my front doors and wired them to the 150.4ab skar amp. I'm trying to post the pictures but every time I try and choose the file it tells me its to big any help with that would be appreciated!

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Am currently having a difficult time tuning my system. Before building my newest birch box and replacing front 6x9s my subwoofer would hit pretty hard with no clipping on sundown sfb clip and power remote. Now on same songs its clipping quite a bit. I do notice my new box actually hits the higher notes then previous boxes and some of the really low notes it doesn't hit anymore. If anyone could give me any kind of advice or help I would be very thankful am becoming slightly confused by it all. My amps im trying to tune are a sundown sfb 8000d and a skar audio 150.4ab 4 channel. I do have a smd dd1 plus but not sure exactly how to get it to perform like I see on YouTube. 

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Did you use all 4 speakers terminals on the bass amp in the previous install? MY Power Acoustik BAMF-5500/1D requires all 4 terminals connected to get full power to the sub. I ran 2 jumper wires.

2000 Toyota Solara SEV6, 200 amp alternator, Jensen VX7020, Hifonics American Warrior Taurus X, Hifonics American Warrior Centurion X, JBL Club 6500C, Power Acoustik XP2K-4102, Coustic Power Logic HT-612 in a BP4.

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Never heard of a monoblock that needed all terminals hooked up to out full power out, they are connected inside, extra terminals are to make it easier to connect to subs, and to OP, answer is easy, ur new box is tuned higher than the old one, happens all the time, just cause Torres or whatever says 32hz sometimes it's really tuned at 35-6ish. Clipping is from higher tune trying to hit lower freqs, up ur subsonic or build another box.

2009 Silverado 1500, 7.5" lift, 37x12.50r17s, Built Gen 4 5.3L ( 4.8l flat pistons, decked 243s, SS2 Cam, Pac 1218 springs, ported intake, 120mm TB, Long tubes, 3" duals HP tuner software tuned by me), 4l80e swapped and 4.56 gears. All done by me. stereo is Pioneer avh 600ex, all stinger rca, jp23 v1.5, skar rp150.4, and hertz hpd4. 2 SHCA 6.5 8ohm, 1 SHCA 3.5", and 1 DS18 tw120pro in each door. The 3.5 mid and 3.5" tweeters are powered by the skar rp150.4, the 6.5s are powered by the hertz bridged @4 ohms. Dual runs   of 3/0 welding cable, 300a alternator, 2 Vmax AGMs up front. current sub is a AB XR 12 ( dual 2 ohm) with bottom spider cut out in 2.25 cubes at 32hz

 

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Ok very helpful thank you guys, now building another box is no problem I can do that any ole Saturday probably but this box is an 18×16x30... now I left my back port wall with a half double layer so that in case the tune wasn't right I could add a board with ease to extend port... the port width is just shy 3inches and is currently 24inches long i believe to get lower again i would need to extend the port maybe another 4 inches? Now if I'm being ridiculous trying to save this box, and need to just rebuild just lmk i feel like I've got air space good just not port width I don't get butthurt I really appreciate all the advice and knowledge you guys on here have its extremely helpful!

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