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Crossover Dilemma


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Ok will do this tomorrow.

 

Could it still be the box? Goodness gracious, but we ve been testing the while equipment with the sub in its "recommended" box.

 

Was I so lucky when I had the other car Peugeot sounding good all the time, does that mean I had the perfect box for that specific sub? And now even though I have changed boxes and subs, may it stillbe that I keep getting the wrong boxes, even from the audio shop I was by? Because I had 2 pieces already of sub boxes around 50Litres and I have a rough idea how big they are.

 

Thing is, the day I got to the shop, the gentleman had the new sub box for me ready, which seemed a lot smaller than the other 2 I had, it didn't seem 50L to me. He has attatched a round port to it, which I discovered afterwards that it was broken a little piece, the end piece on the inside. Got me thinking this guy either doesn't have enough info or he doesnt give a shit. I didn't measure this new box, which should have been a good box according to him, and when I do, I am pretty sure it is around 35L, very small for that ESX quantum qe1224.

 

So I'll come up tomorrow with some pics maybe a video. Is it possible, for a sub due to the box its in, to sound muddy/sloppy? Lets leave the soft crossover settings aside, I am asking is that possible?

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Can someone explain why am I not getting the feeling when bass is played, that the cabin car is being pressurized? Because if it did, then I wouldn't be able to localize the sub position. In my other system other car from the first time at not a high volume I already felt the pressure. Is this caused by a crossover setting, a sub box or the car has may leaks? What is causing this to happen? Why don't the subs pressurize the car's cabin?

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On 5/19/2020 at 6:04 PM, Joshdashef said:

Just read through this post. Might have missed stuff so forgive me if I do...

 

Do you mind sharing pics of your subwoofer box? Also disconnect the speaker wires from the box and use a multimeter to show the resistance (in ohms) of the subs. When you go to take a picture of the box leave it in the car to show where the port is and subwoofer in relation to the back hatch or seats.

 

I own and use the 80 PRS in an active network mode, different than standard, but never had an issue with the crossover network. It handles everything from my HPF on my tweeter channels to bandpassing my mids and LPF my subs, (two amps. 4 channel has a channel per speaker/tweeter). For shits and giggles, do you mind sharing your crossover settings on the 80 PRS? 
 

Really the more we can see the better. It is so hard to diagnose a problem without actually being in person so the more we can observe the better! :) I really hope we can help you get back to cruising with some good tunes soon but we gotta find this problem first.

Exactly this I want to see those speakers ohm out. 

 

The w3 is notorious for not getting much overrated wattage or any kind of abuse at all

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I am going outside to the car right now to take some pics.

 

So no one can explain why is my car not getting pressurized? I keep wondering this could be because of the trunks "physiology" having that HOLE for the spare tire. Here is a pic of the trunk, one of the Peugeot 206 my old car and this Kia Rio the new one.

 

You cannot see for the Peugeot 206 when you lift the carpet in the trunk there is no hole for the spare wheel everything is metal flat.

 

k.png

p.jpg

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You might be right.

 

So I went ahead today and:

 

Video 80PRS Old Settings on STANDARD MODE https://youtu.be/4NuHNJrgxGo

 

Video 80PRS New Settings on NW MODE https://youtu.be/ph3qof4R-80

 

Below I will be attatching some etra pics as requested.

 

Conclusion: I have decided to go Network Mode on the PRS. I have thought about the following setup:

 

- for the Lows: the RCA going to the JL Rd 1000/1 amp

- for the Mids: the RCA going to the Mosconi 120.2 amp

- for the Highs: the same RCA going to the Mosconi 120.2 amp * which I will explain why I did this due to current limitations

 

You can check the settings for the STD MODE in the first video, and the settings for the NW MODE in the second one listed above.

 

I want to focus on the second video though. Bass output in NW MODE with specific Crossover Settings seem to have improved bass cleanliness output. Following settings in Network Mode were adopted (see video above):

 

LowLPF Stereo 80Hz 36db/oct Phase NOR (doesn't show in the video but I know)

MidHPF 125Hz 6db/oct Phase NOR

MidLPF Pass

HighHPF Muted

 

*** I did this exact setup because I have in between the component speakers and the Mosconi 120.2 amp, physical crossovers, which can handle the above give Crossover Settings according to my understanding.

 

With these settings it sounds the best it can until the present moment.

 

Pics:

 

 

 

jl 12w3v3-4 resistance.jpg

Kia empty trunk.jpg

trunk from outside.jpg

trunk under carpet hole.jpg

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You guys can't think about any other solution attempts to this right? I hope we will win, because other people may be exp the same. And when they get to this post, they would eventually see a solution to it.

 

I have read so many posts on dozens of other forums. I sometimes found almost exactly the same scenario I am in. But everyrime that specific post was ending in the middle of things and no solution was provided.

 

This problem I have since I bought this new car. I am fighting this 4y now and I am tired.

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56 minutes ago, AaronT said:

It's 4ohm. It's hardly getting any power, that's the problem.

 

 

You need something that's 600 watts capable at 4 ohm. Basically a 2400 watt monoblock.

I just looked up that amp on the jl website. It says at 14.4 volts, at 4 ohm, 600 watts rms and at 12.5 volts it gets 500 watts at 4 ohm rms. I know that's just "what they say" and it's not always the absolute truth. I'm just saying. In my opinion, I think he's expecting too much from that sub. I think he said it was a w3 right? There's a reason that thing is only a little over $300 by a company that the next series up (w6) and their flagship (w7) are expensive as hell. I mean the w6 is $729 for a 600 watt rms sub.... that's just my 2 cents. It's supposed to be a bad ass amp though

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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