MajikNinja Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 3 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: Yeah, you’re right. I meant to say discharging. I don’t know why I said charging up. The current is what charges the amp’s capacitors and when the amp’s capacitors still have a charge and a wire or metal touches the grounding terminal the spark is the capacitors discharging and the amp no longer has current in and won’t spark up at the grounding terminal until the amp receives more current and then the grounding terminal is touched by a wire or metal again. My fingers work faster than my brain sometimes. Lol! My bad. Makes sense. Discharge caps. But wouldn’t the caps discharge immediately because they are already grounded on the chassis? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 2 minutes ago, MajikNinja said: Noted 100%. I have a lot of learning to do for sure. That’s why I’m here asking questions though. And I very thankful for the replies. Wouldn’t connecting the fuse after have the same affect as just connecting the wire? No. When you connect the wires to the amp without the fuse in there is no current passing through that wire, so less chance of messing something up. Then when your done connecting the wires, put the fuse in and don’t worry about the spark the fuse going in will make. It won’t shock you nor harm the amp. You could be touching it right on the metal and still be fine. So don’t let that alarm you. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Just now, MajikNinja said: Makes sense. Discharge caps. But wouldn’t the caps discharge immediately because they are already grounded on the chassis? I corrected and edited that statement. Dude made me think and then I said that and then I thought again and dude was wrong. Read what I edited it to. I can’t believe I went against what I know and my gut just because for a split second I thought I was wrong and wanted to rebuttal myself. I won’t do that again. Lol “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajikNinja Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Just now, 1point21gigawatts said: I corrected and edited that statement. Dude made me think and then I said that and then I thought again and dude was wrong. Read what I edited it to. I can’t believe I went against what I know and my gut just because for a split second I thought I was wrong and wanted to rebuttal myself. I won’t do that again. Lol I seen that after I posted that. So let’s recap. Always install the fuse LAST. Go it. BUT. Connecting the power to the negative battery terminal should yield no harmful effect since the circuit on the amps isn’t complete. Negative to negative to negative is. Well. Negative. But the spark is what’s irritating me. Or am I just completely wrong in every way. Teach me! Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 1 hour ago, MajikNinja said: So I was running all my wiring today and I was connecting my amp power wire and it slipped out of my hand and hit the negative post on the battery and sparked. The amps were grounded to the body. My amps power on and work fine. I have a 4 year warranty on them so I’m not worried about it. But to help my further my knowledge. There’s really nothing bad to happen because it can’t Complete a circuit that way anyways right? It would be zero voltage? But why the spark? Happens to the best of us. I always prefer to have extra rags covering any exposed hot side or ground side when working with power wire. Ounce of preparations worth a pound of fixing 😂 SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 You will not see any sparks come from the terminals on the amp if the fuse isn’t in. So don’t worry. And it is still possible to harm an amp if a hot wire (not grounding wire) touching the amp’s grounding terminal. To be honest with you, I’ve never put a positive lead to a grounding terminal on an amp or had it touch. At least I don’t think I have. But I’m sure it could mess an amp up. Only amp I’ve ever messed up was a factory amp and it was because of a spark at the remote wire when I was checking impedance rise at the terminals like a dumb dumb instead of checking it by putting the leads inside the wires and I had wiggled a lead somehow and it touched the remote terminal and I seen a spark and everything still was on but music wasn’t playing. I didn’t have access to binding posts or a terminal cup, subwoofer was wired straight to the amp, holes were drilled in the 4th order enclosure for the wires instead of binding posts or a terminal cup. But yeah, don’t worry about it. Just put the fuse in after the wires are connected. And if the positive lead is fused or is running straight from the battery with no fuse holder, thus no fuse, then hook the positive lead in first and make sure it goes in without the wire touching anything around that terminal. Then put the ground wire in and you will most likely see a spark, but don’t be alarmed because it’s just the caps charging up. Then put the remote wire and rca wire in. Do it in that order to protect your amp and head unit. But to make it easier and safer, ALWAYS HAVE A FUSE HOLDER AND PUT THE FUSE IN LAST. I just explained how to do it without because there are times when that know how is needed. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 1 hour ago, MajikNinja said: So I was running all my wiring today and I was connecting my amp power wire and it slipped out of my hand and hit the negative post on the battery and sparked. The amps were grounded to the body. My amps power on and work fine. I have a 4 year warranty on them so I’m not worried about it. But to help my further my knowledge. There’s really nothing bad to happen because it can’t Complete a circuit that way anyways right? It would be zero voltage? But why the spark? And another thing. A company won’t honor a warranty if the user is the reason the product malfunctions or is damaged. When it comes to car audio, the companies offer warranty for manufacturing defects, damages or malfunctions. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajikNinja Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 15 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: You will not see any sparks come from the terminals on the amp if the fuse isn’t in. So don’t worry. And it is still possible to harm an amp if a hot wire (not grounding wire) touching the amp’s grounding terminal. To be honest with you, I’ve never put a positive lead to a grounding terminal on an amp or had it touch. At least I don’t think I have. But I’m sure it could mess an amp up. Only amp I’ve ever messed up was a factory amp and it was because of a spark at the remote wire when I was checking impedance rise at the terminals like a dumb dumb instead of checking it by putting the leads inside the wires and I had wiggled a lead somehow and it touched the remote terminal and I seen a spark and everything still was on but music wasn’t playing. I didn’t have access to binding posts or a terminal cup, subwoofer was wired straight to the amp, holes were drilled in the 4th order enclosure for the wires instead of binding posts or a terminal cup. But yeah, don’t worry about it. Just put the fuse in after the wires are connected. And if the positive lead is fused or is running straight from the battery with no fuse holder, thus no fuse, then hook the positive lead in first and make sure it goes in without the wire touching anything around that terminal. Then put the ground wire in and you will most likely see a spark, but don’t be alarmed because it’s just the caps charging up. Then put the remote wire and rca wire in. Do it in that order to protect your amp and head unit. But to make it easier and safer, ALWAYS HAVE A FUSE HOLDER AND PUT THE FUSE IN LAST. I just explained how to do it without because there are times when that know how is needed. No wires Cross touched any of my amp terminals. I had my amp ground and power already installed and covered up. I was up on the car battery putting on the power wire when the spark came from the power wire touching the negative post on the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajikNinja Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 3 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: And another thing. A company won’t honor a warranty if the user is the reason the product malfunctions or is damaged. When it comes to car audio, the companies offer warranty for manufacturing defects, damages or malfunctions. I have a warranty that covers if the amp blows up. I paid extra for it. It’s not through the manufacturer. But the place I bought it from will repair or replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 14 minutes ago, MajikNinja said: I have a warranty that covers if the amp blows up. I paid extra for it. It’s not through the manufacturer. But the place I bought it from will repair or replace it. Car audio shops offer warranties too but not warranties if the user is the reason the audio device is damaged. If so, then that shop is doing something I’ve never seen a shop do. I have homeboys that work at shops and if I buy something under warranty and I mess it up then I have to fix it or replace it. If a shop warrantied car audio gear even if the user is the reason the gear messed up then that ship would lose money because so many people mess up car audio gear because they themselves do something wrong. You misunderstood what that guy told you about that warranty and if he told you that the warranty covers user damages then his boss needs to have a talk with him because he is mistaken. Call up there and talk to a manager and ask them if your faulty wiring damages the amp and you are the reason the amp would be damaged would they still honor the warranty. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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