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Stupid Audi... Hooked up and and subs, but wierd stuff happening...


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2011 Audi A5 with concert stereo

 

I bought a line out converter and hooked it up using the rear speaker inputs. Everything works fine except when I start the car the subs freak out and pulse full blast for a few seconds... I hooked the remote turn on wire to a fuse in the rear. I remember trying to get the rear back up camera to work using a trigger wire and all it would do is glitch out. To get it to work I had to use the radio out's specific trigger wire. Maybe its the same sort of issue?

I tried a couple different fuses in the trunk, passenger side. When you first put the key in the car the subs just THUMP like they are 80% volume for about 4 seconds.

I cant figure this car with this canbus electronics....


Is there a fuse that gets power a few seconds after the car has started? The amp is getting power to fast I think. Wonder about a relay.

Anyone else have an issue like this?
 

Ok this is crazy... the electronics in this car/manufacturer are insane... Ive never had so many issues hooking up a rear camera, android audio, line output converters, remote turn on wire...

I ordered a relay to delay the power from the remote turn on to the amp so the amp doesnt power on first and prevent the THUMP.. Well today I wanted to hear the subs so I jumped the remote turn on to the +12 on the amp so I could atleast listen to it. When I did that the subs just vibrate loud until I let go... so I unhook the RCA's to see if that helps. The subs stopped vibrating so I plugged one RCA in at a time, first one it didnt do it but the second RCA is started vibrating again. When I say vibrating I mean they are pretty much thumping very loudly fast.

So after a bit the amp and subs became stable dunno how... but here is another stupid thing this car does... I was like ok its working now let me close the trunk... As soon as the trunk is closed the subs start to vibrate/thump louf until I open the trunk. They stop as soon as the trunks popped open... same happens if I close it again....
 

This makes absolutely no sense to me... Ive hooked up atleast 50 car audio systems in my years, never once have I ever came across such a weird vehicle...
 

It is such a basic setup...
Line out converter hooked to the rear speakers, 2 channel and polarity hooked up correctly according to wire diagram.
4 gauge +12v power line directly to the battery with a fuse.
4 gauge Negative wire mounted directly the the frame in the trunk.
Remote turn on wire hooked to the ligher/acc fuse in the trunk.

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I wonder if the car's radio runs through some sort of self check on ignition on


Might need a delayed turn on

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32 minutes ago, SnowDrifter said:

I wonder if the car's radio runs through some sort of self check on ignition on
Might need a delayed turn on

Dunno, all I know is its making me crazy. People in the Audi forums dont seem to reply.

 

Can an RCA line converter be wired after the cars stock amplifier? to much wattage for the converter? I have no idea what the input colors are before the amp, its all in one big harness.

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the trunk reaction is similar to what happens when an ANC mic is present. look to see if one is preset or if there's an one/off in the menu of the radio. 2011, I don't recall ANC being used at that time but ya never know.

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

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I have the kicker converter.

I decided to take the whole stock radio out and try to find the speaker wires coming out of that instead of hooking the converter up after the amp. After a few hours I think that may have fixed it. Could hooking the line out converter hooked up after the stock amp cuase all those issues?

 

Im tired and havent tested it all out yet like driving, shutting it off turning it on... but after just quick driveway testing it seemed fixed.

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does the line out converter have a ground wire on it?  if so, hook that to a good ground.  how did you wire to the speakers?  did you tie in at the speaker or before the factory amp?  did you wire to one speaker and tie the input wires together or wire to two speakers?  you say the subs start moving with one of the rcas plugged in, i'd make sure there's nothing possibly shorting that rca wire.  

 

if the line out is powered, ie with 12V constant, remote, and ground make sure you have good connections for all of those.

 

your radio fuse is located in the right side of the dash fuse panel, it is fuse #15 and is a 20A fuse.  you can use an "add a circuit" fuse to share the switched ignition power to this fuse.  yes you'll have to run a longer wire to the trunk, but it could help with your turn on issues too

 

 

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1 hour ago, NitroViper said:

I have the kicker converter.

I decided to take the whole stock radio out and try to find the speaker wires coming out of that instead of hooking the converter up after the amp. After a few hours I think that may have fixed it. Could hooking the line out converter hooked up after the stock amp cuase all those issues?

 

Im tired and havent tested it all out yet like driving, shutting it off turning it on... but after just quick driveway testing it seemed fixed.

 

hooking a line out after the amp can cause mysterious issues, I've dealt with it myself.  Using the non amped speaker outputs from the radio will yield a purer signal, albeit a quieter one.  you may need to adjust your gains after tying into the pre amp wires.

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