Jump to content
Sundown Audio

Amp Recommendations for 4x SA6.5 D2


Bdsankey

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 20
  • Created
  • Last Reply
2 hours ago, Bdsankey said:

Would I see a sound quality/longevity benefit going from the Skar RP-1500.1D to say the US Acoustics Mike? 

You won’t be able to hear a difference in either one of them amps. As far as longevity, I trust us acoustics a little more even though they aren’t made by zed anymore. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Bdsankey said:

Thats the plan. Now to just determine if I should go passive or active on the crossovers. 

Skar RP or US Acoustics Mike for the 4x SA6.5 D2s? 

If you’re going with us acoustics for the mids and highs then go with us acoustics for the subwoofers

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, 1point21gigawatts said:

You won’t be able to hear a difference in either one of them amps. As far as longevity, I trust us acoustics a little more even though they aren’t made by zed anymore. 

10-4, US Acoustics it is then for the woofer amp. 

Active or passive for the crossovers? I'm using the Audison APK 165 component set in the front doors. I'm going to leave the rear door speakers on the deck and try them out when I have a long road trip with more than just the front seats occupied. Worst case I just fade the deck 100% to the front or cap the ends. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Bdsankey said:

10-4, US Acoustics it is then for the woofer amp. 

Active or passive for the crossovers? I'm using the Audison APK 165 component set in the front doors. I'm going to leave the rear door speakers on the deck and try them out when I have a long road trip with more than just the front seats occupied. Worst case I just fade the deck 100% to the front or cap the ends. 

Actives are more versatile but passives are easier because they are preset. It’s up to you. If you’re good with crossovers then go active. If you’re not so good with crossovers then go passive. Them components come with passive crossovers, correct?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

Actives are more versatile but passives are easier because they are preset. It’s up to you. If you’re good with crossovers then go active. If you’re not so good with crossovers then go passive. Them components come with passive crossovers, correct?


I don't know anything about setting the crossovers. My plan was to buy or borrow someone's DD1 and CC1. 


They come with 4 passive crossovers, 2 each for the tweeters and 2 each for the mid. From what I can tell, Audison rates one tweeter/mid at 100w RMS and 300W peak which seems to coincide with the mid's specs. After doing some digging the Audison AP 1 seems to be ~50w RMS but I will have to reach out to Audison to confirm. 

 

15 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

And if you want good sound quality, delete the rear fill. No speakers in the rear. Just subwoofers in the rear. Move them speakers in the front door panel. What type of speakers are in the rear fill?

To be clear, the thought was simply to use them when there are 4 people in the truck where quality isn't as much of a focus as is simply eliminating the deadspace in the rear of the cab. They are some older kickers that the previous owner put it, I have no idea exactly what they are as I haven't torn them out yet (still planning out the system). I have zero issue deleting them, I just don't want to be stuck in the back seat for 10hrs and be forced to wear headphones just to hear a somewhat OK sound. I am not attempting to argue your point, just want to make sure you 100% understand my goal with that rear door speaker location. If the community says don't use the rear fill then so be it, just want to make this monetary investment once. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Bdsankey said:


I don't know anything about setting the crossovers. My plan was to buy or borrow someone's DD1 and CC1. 


They come with 4 passive crossovers, 2 each for the tweeters and 2 each for the mid. From what I can tell, Audison rates one tweeter/mid at 100w RMS and 300W peak which seems to coincide with the mid's specs. After doing some digging the Audison AP 1 seems to be ~50w RMS but I will have to reach out to Audison to confirm. 

 

To be clear, the thought was simply to use them when there are 4 people in the truck where quality isn't as much of a focus as is simply eliminating the deadspace in the rear of the cab. They are some older kickers that the previous owner put it, I have no idea exactly what they are as I haven't torn them out yet (still planning out the system). I have zero issue deleting them, I just don't want to be stuck in the back seat for 10hrs and be forced to wear headphones just to hear a somewhat OK sound. 

Leave them there then. But if you moved them up front it would be ok because sound would still resonate through the whole cabin nicely. Think about the concept of resonating in a concert. But if you want rear fill then that’s no problem because you said your front stage is gonna get fed by that amp and then rear fill fed by the head unit. So that’s fine. And then Audison apk components are rated at 100 rms per speaker/tweeter. Don’t worry about it. Just throw 100 rms to each set and be done with it, the passives will handle it. And that’s a good idea to use the dd-1 to set the amps gains and the cc-1 to set the amps filters, high pass (hpf), low pass (lpf) and subsonic aka infrasonic. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

Leave them there then. But if you moved them up front it would be ok because sound would still resonate through the whole cabin nicely. Think about the concept of resonating in a concert. But if you want rear fill then that’s no problem because you said your front stage is gonna get fed by that amp and then rear fill fed by the head unit. So that’s fine. And then Audison apk components are rated at 100 rms per speaker and tweeter. Don’t worry about it. Just throw 100 rms to each set and be done with it, the passives will handle it. And that’s a good idea to use the dd-1 to set the amps gains and the cc-1 to set the amps filters, high pass (hpf), low pass (lpf) and subsonic aka infrasonic. 

Perfect, worst case like I said is I just fade it 100% to the front and leave it like that if it sounds that bad. 

I will set the APK 165 up as passive then and feed them full power from the Barbara Ann (obviously set without distortion etc). I'm hoping the DEH-X8800BHS will do me justice here in terms of not distorting until a higher volume number vs say midway through its range. The only thing I have zero clue on is what DB overlap to set the amps to. 

I also think the US Acoustics Mike (1500RMS) will power the bank of 4x SA 6.5 well without ever risking overpowering them. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Bringing this back up, I able to get Audio Control at a large discount. Are their amps higher quality that say US Acoustics? Current plan is to run the Audison APK 165 as passive in the front doors on a US Acoustics Barbara-Ann and the 4x Sundown SA 6.5 on a US Acoustics Mike, would I see any sound quality benefit going to Audio Control? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 207 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online



×
×
  • Create New...