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SuperCaps for a stock electrical system


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First off. Buddy has a 2017 Buick Lacrosse with a 155 amp alt that he wants to run a 1500-2000 watt system off of. I am recommending upgrading the electrical. First recommendation is a bigger alt and two D3400s so he is more than good to go as well as associated 1/0 wiring and such. Of course he balks at that. So I am trying to figure out a couple other ideas. Main concern is that most cars run so much electrical I am guessing 155 amps is not A) what it runs when its a hot day and B ) not enough to run EXTRA audio equipment. Current draw is about 275 amps for 1ohm @ 2000 watts. Also I feel dumb but not sure current store for a standard large capacity AGM battery and how long a 155 alt takes to charge that. 

 

I was looking at running a (1)Deep Cycle battery wired directly to the alt and then running a Eaton super cap bank at 65F not the typical 3000F per 2.7v cap. Eaton PowerStor XVM-16R2656 . Run a inline fuse at the correct rating and a battery isolator for the stock charging side. 

 

What farad level will really make a difference? Is 65F too low?  

 

(Also of course this is a budget setup so cost is an issue. I was looking at DC/DC converters as well but they get pricey...and some accuvolts which seem like the same thing)

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After impedance rise and voltage drop you know there’s no way a 2000 watt amp will ever see that many watts nor amps, since the impedance will be higher, makes the rms less and current draw less. Way less. He wouldn’t need much to run that amp. Big 3 upgrade and an extra battery. No need for a bank of caps because he needs more reserve, not quicker charge and discharge. The big 3 will handle that when it comes to that amount of current draw. 

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:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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was going off in-rush current for amperage draw of the amp. Caps would be to stabilize voltage not for charge/recharge.

 

I was planning on upgrading his wiring setup anyway since its a unibody car and it seems like they have been glued together since like 2000. Also the main power wire is 4 gauge which would be fine if it wasn't in the back of the car. I was planning on just doing a seperate run to the back of the car and isolating it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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That makes more sense, I was thinking a smaller battery but I think I can convince him to go with a XP3000 and do a legit big 3. 

 

Thats why I asked in the first place since there isn't a ton of info kicking around about what farad level begins to make a difference and I would bet is more dependent on your equipment draw then anything. Also I was looking at the dc/dc converters too but all of them came out to more money then just more or bigger batteries. 

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11 minutes ago, aculous said:

was going off in-rush current for amperage draw of the amp. Caps would be to stabilize voltage not for charge/recharge.

 

I was planning on upgrading his wiring setup anyway since its a unibody car and it seems like they have been glued together since like 2000. Also the main power wire is 4 gauge which would be fine if it wasn't in the back of the car. I was planning on just doing a seperate run to the back of the car and isolating it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That amp will never see that amount of current even on sine waves because of the impedance rise. And that number cuts in half when it comes to music play. The only way that amp will ever see that rated maximum current is on an amp dyno playing a sine wave keeping that amp at a stable impedance. Caps have a quicker charge and discharge rate which stabilizes the voltage. That’s what I meant. The big 3 would add charging and discharging upgrades and be enough to stabilize his voltage with that small current pull. He needs an extra battery for more reserve. Caps won’t deliver what he needs. For the price he spends on a 500 farad bank, because a 65 farad bank isn’t gonna do hardly anything, he can buy an extra battery. $299 will buy a 500 farad bank from limitless lithium or a 120ah agm battery, maybe $40 more if you decide on an xs battery instead of a shuriken or something. Go with the extra battery. Trust me. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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1 minute ago, aculous said:

That makes more sense, I was thinking a smaller battery but I think I can convince him to go with a XP3000 and do a legit big 3. 

 

Thats why I asked in the first place since there isn't a ton of info kicking around about what farad level begins to make a difference and I would bet is more dependent on your equipment draw then anything. Also I was looking at the dc/dc converters too but all of them came out to more money then just more or bigger batteries. 

That would be ideal. You don’t need a converter though

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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1 minute ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That amp will never see that amount of current even on sine waves because of the impedance rise. And that number cuts in half when it comes to music play. The only way that amp will ever see that rated maximum current is on an amp dyno playing a sine wave keeping that amp at a stable impedance. Caps have a quicker charge and discharge rate which stabilizes the voltage. That’s what I meant. The big 3 would add charging and discharging upgrades and be enough to stabilize his voltage with that small current pull. He needs an extra battery for more reserve. Caps won’t deliver what he needs. For the price he spends on a 500 farad bank, because a 65 farad bank isn’t gonna do hardly anything, he can buy an extra battery. $299 will buy a 500 farad bank from limitless lithium or a 120ah agm battery, maybe $40 more if you decide on an xs battery instead of a shuriken or something. Go with the extra battery. Trust me. 

 

2 minutes ago, aculous said:

That makes more sense, I was thinking a smaller battery but I think I can convince him to go with a XP3000 and do a legit big 3. 

 

Thats why I asked in the first place since there isn't a ton of info kicking around about what farad level begins to make a difference and I would bet is more dependent on your equipment draw then anything. Also I was looking at the dc/dc converters too but all of them came out to more money then just more or bigger batteries. 

My bad, I had edited the first one so I could add where to get the bank of caps and I deleted the first one. I posted this to clear it up for onlookers. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Just now, 1point21gigawatts said:

That amp will never see that amount of current even on sine waves because of the impedance rise. And that number cuts in half when it comes to music play. The only way that amp will ever see that rated maximum current is on an amp dyno playing a sine wave keeping that amp at a stable impedance. Caps have a quicker charge and discharge rate which stabilizes the voltage. That’s what I meant. The big 3 would add charging and discharging upgrades and be enough to stabilize his voltage with that small current pull. He needs an extra battery for more reserve. Caps won’t deliver what he needs. For the price he spends on a 500 farad bank, because a 65 farad bank isn’t gonna do hardly anything, he can buy an extra battery. $299 will buy a 500 farad bank from limitless lithium or a 120ah agm battery, maybe $40 more if you decide on an xs battery instead of a shuriken or something. Go with the extra battery. Trust me. 

I am. No worries just asking the question because things have come a long way since I first seriously started looking at maxwell caps back 4 years ago even though I still think the charge controller is the most important part. 

 

1 minute ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That would be ideal. You don’t need a converter though

Yea, I was just looking at things that could get me more voltage that would not include a seperate alt and totally separate 16v path. 

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11 minutes ago, aculous said:

I am. No worries just asking the question because things have come a long way since I first seriously started looking at maxwell caps back 4 years ago even though I still think the charge controller is the most important part. 

 

Yea, I was just looking at things that could get me more voltage that would not include a seperate alt and totally separate 16v path. 

Understandable. But you’ll be fine and better off with that xs3000 and a big 3 just to feed that amp current and then caps would keep the voltage up but I’m sure with that amount of current draw on a 155 amp alternator and a big 3 with a 120ah battery he won’t drop below mid to high 13s. He might not drop below 14.  

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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