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Tell me again why I need more battery reserve ???


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1 hour ago, fishchris1 said:

Hey Audiofanaticz, that sounds like a pretty bad ass setup <img src="> 

Now, as far as the alternators dropping not putting out max rated amperage all the time, yes, of course. But when I was talking about making 2000-4000+ amps continuously, that was a whole different train of thought, that I don't have time or space to explain here.

 

Buts let's talk about your setup. Again, sounds freaking awesome <img src="> so when I said, "making LOTS of power but only having one battery", okay, let's make that 1 battery a Lithium Ion battery... Maybe even a 150ah version.

But also, I'd want to throw in a suitable sized bank of super capacitors, so that they could put out however much juice was needed "almost instantly". Even faster, in fact, than any lithium battery. 

 

So I'm imagining now, your system, with still only one battery, a 150ah lithium, all 3 alternators running again, and about 3000 farads of super capacitors. Honestly, I think that could do 30 or 40Kwts with almost zero drop.

 

So, everything I said, except yes, of course, if your only running one battery, definitely it should be a lithium. Don't know why I didn't address that in my OP...... But don't forget the super caps either.

 

PS, And again, I know a setup which put out 3000-4000 amps continuous could be built for any truck or SUV with a strong V8 or deisel motor. And you already see what "one" of your 390's does.

Oh btw, Audiofanaticz, you said you are only running one of your 390 alts ? Is that because your 95ah lithium can only handle the amps from one of your alts ? That's another problem with lithiums... besides the cost :( So, back to what I was saying.....  "A battery".... but if your making LOTS of amperage from the start... which you can / have, with those three 390's, maybe a lithium is not the best way to go. Maybe a shit ton of super capacitors.... 2000 farads or more. In fact, I wonder how things would work out with a ridiculous super capacitor bank, three 390's, and NO actual battery ??? But the whole thing I'm trying to stress here, is if you can make enough power, fast enough, what is the reserve for ?

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43 minutes ago, Fish Chris said:

Hence the need for "a battery".... either a lithium, which lets a lot of power out pretty fast... OR, much better yet, a lithium battery and a bank of super caps. Only problem with lithium batteries though, other than cost, is they have a limited charging amperage too.

That's my bad, I thought you said yours did put out continuous power. Now that i read the words you actually wrote...ignore me :)

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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31 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

That's my bad, I thought you said yours did put out continuous power. Now that i read the words you actually wrote...ignore me :)

Actually, my amp manufacture claims it does, but that's probably not exactly true. I think it pretty close though. Super pleased with my 320 Amp Pro Power alt. My voltage drops a lot more, just from conditions (heat) than it does from any load I put on it with the stereo system. And here's something kind of funny (which is actually awesome during the Summer, in Sacramento :) My voltage actually stays up better, when I crank the AC ? Something to do with the onboard PC telling the alternator it needs more power.

If I come to a stop light, with the truck idling, in gear, stereo full tilt, it might drop to 13.7 on a hot day. Out of gear its even better. On a cool day, amazing... full tilt, idling at a stop light, or whatever, it stays over 14 volts :)  .... and I have not even put in my super capacitor bank yet ! Can't wait.

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It won't put out more power than is being used, not possible. You keep referring to voltage though, which tells me you are using that to judge how much amperage is being output? How are you measuring voltage, what kind of meter? Lots of meters have a tough time displaying rapid voltage changes so you might be dropping a lot more than you think. 

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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29 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

It won't put out more power than is being used, not possible. You keep referring to voltage though, which tells me you are using that to judge how much amperage is being output? How are you measuring voltage, what kind of meter? Lots of meters have a tough time displaying rapid voltage changes so you might be dropping a lot more than you think. 

Skippy, I do have an aftermarket volt meter installed in my dash. Don't even remember the brand. It was installed more than 10 years ago. 

And your totally right, it does not show fast voltage dips due to quick hits, like from a fast bass note, like a kick drum. But I know I'm having those quick little dips as my dash lights flicker. My headlights used to, but that went away as soon as in installed aftermarket LED headlights.

 

Anyway this ^ is why I'm so anxious to get my super capacitor bank installed 🙂 I'll be able to deliver power as fast as the amps can take it. 

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Yeah LED headlights won't flicker unless you drop dangerously low. Your dash lights dimming shows you that you aren't getting constant output out of your alternators. but it sounds like you already know you aren't, hence why you are adding super caps. Otherwise, you wouldn't need the super caps to deal with the power the alternators can't keep up with. 

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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When I toss my long belt on 1 of my other 2 alternators is sounding like a super charger, it has a really bad rough whine coming from it. Not sure if its one of the alts or both of the alts so Im just not using the other 2 so I dont damage it farther since they are still working but just sound awful. These things are about 9 years old at this point and were $1200 each. I think the bearings are shot in them.

 

Anyways you said what do I need more reserve for, and thinking a motorcycle battery should be fine for reserve, so I told you why you need reserve.

 

Even a doing a lithium battery like in my case the 95ah of CMAX is going to be stronger than 10 d3100s. 

So even though a single lithium battery, its still massive amounts of reserve. 

 

 

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8 hours ago, audiofanaticz said:

When I toss my long belt on 1 of my other 2 alternators is sounding like a super charger, it has a really bad rough whine coming from it. Not sure if its one of the alts or both of the alts so Im just not using the other 2 so I dont damage it farther since they are still working but just sound awful. These things are about 9 years old at this point and were $1200 each. I think the bearings are shot in them.

 

Anyways you said what do I need more reserve for, and thinking a motorcycle battery should be fine for reserve, so I told you why you need reserve.

 

Even a doing a lithium battery like in my case the 95ah of CMAX is going to be stronger than 10 d3100s. 

So even though a single lithium battery, its still massive amounts of reserve. 

I don't think a motorcycle battery would be fine.... I "asked" wouldn't it be fine ?

 

And another thing... I know lithium batteries can put out juice quicker, and can charge right back up, a lot quicker than an AGM, not to mention, they weigh a LOT less. But regarding reserve, isn't that what amp hours tell you ? Wouldn't an AGM battery of 90 ah have twice the reserve of a Lithium battery of 45 ah ?

 

Also, when it comes to quick charging and quick delivery of juice, a Lithium battery is like a snail,  compared to super capacitors.

 

 

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No, thats where your wrong. 

You cant compare Lithium AH to AGM AH. 

If you did that means that 95ah Cmax lithium has less reserve than 1 d3100 with 127ah.
Hell you cant even compare ah of one type of lithium to another type of lithium of a different chemistry. 
Unless you have used lithium before, you would be shocked to see how it performs in all aspects compared to a big agm bank.

I have about $550 in my 95ah bank, that is for the cells, busbars, angle iron, threaded rod, nuts, washers, and paint.

Thats a little less than $100 more than a new D3100. 

Im sitting here still asking myself why I haven't made the switch sooner. 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, audiofanaticz said:

No, thats where your wrong. 

You cant compare Lithium AH to AGM AH. 

If you did that means that 95ah Cmax lithium has less reserve than 1 d3100 with 127ah.
Hell you cant even compare ah of one type of lithium to another type of lithium of a different chemistry. 
Unless you have used lithium before, you would be shocked to see how it performs in all aspects compared to a big agm bank.

I have about $550 in my 95ah bank, that is for the cells, busbars, angle iron, threaded rod, nuts, washers, and paint.

Thats a little less than $100 more than a new D3100. 

Im sitting here still asking myself why I haven't made the switch sooner. 

I'm not wrong about anything, because I didn't make any statements. I was asking questions.

So your saying the ah rating on an AGM doesn't mean the same thing it does on a lithium battery ? Interesting. I already knew Lithiums were much better in other aspects, but I figured amp hours were amp hours.....

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