Tell me again why I need more battery reserve ???

[Joshdashef]

On 6/11/2020 at 3:11 AM, fishchris1 said:

I'm not wrong about anything, because I didn't make any statements. I was asking questions.

So your saying the ah rating on an AGM doesn't mean the same thing it does on a lithium battery ? Interesting. I already knew Lithiums were much better in other aspects, but I figured amp hours were amp hours.....

Nope. Ah per ah is impossible to compare outside of chemistries. 40 ah of lto could be different than 40ah of agm or LifePo4 it depends on a lot of things. My knowledge is limited but from what I can tell it depends on the c rating, depicting the amount of essentially output a battery can give (max discharge) or receive (max input). Very high level overview but you can spend hours looking into this stuff. 

[AaronT]

Imma disagree with ya 1.21

 

You do not want the alt doing all the work, it won't last long like that

 

I like a 60/40 or 70/30 split of the work to batteries/alternator.

 

 

[AaronT]

If too much charge is an issue with lithium, just add more ah.

 

I had 3 group 34 65ah full throttle AGMs, and 250 amp alt (185-190 at idle, 278 at 2250rpm)

 

I would drop into 12s and at times 11.8 ish if I played a test to e full tilt.

 

Replaced all AGMs with one 40ah lto bank, and my voltage with car off is more stable rhannit was running with 3 AGMs.

 

Running parked inatay at 14.5 full tilt

 

Best volt meter that's accurate, calibratable, and quick is the soundqubed vm-1. It looks like the stinger voltmeter but the difference is it's a 12-bit chip as opposed to the six bit chip in the stinger.

 

The thing moves quicker than the SMD meter

[1point21gigawatts]

7 hours ago, AaronT said:

Imma disagree with ya 1.21

 

You do not want the alt doing all the work, it won't last long like that

 

I like a 60/40 or 70/30 split of the work to batteries/alternator.

 

 

I understand what you’re saying and to not over work an alternator but it’s hard as shit to put a good alternator down and as long as it’s supporting the juice getting pulled but the system and the vehicle’s electronics then reserve isn’t necessarily needed but for sure is always better for everything electrical related in the vehicle. Because think about it, a regular factory alternator supports the factory electrical current pull and last for decades, why can’t a high output alternator support a system’s current pull and the vehicle’s factory electrical current pull and not be fine for decades as long as the total current pull doesn’t exceed the alternator’s idle amperage? Same scenario. Ya feel me? Just think about it, a factory alternator idles lower than the max factory current draw and still lasts for decades if maintained. Mine did and is still alive but not hooked up. There’s people that have been running small systems on factory electrical and have been doing so for a long time on the same vehicle with no problems, just having to change the battery more so than they did without a system. And their alternators are still good. And you know these good high output companies now make tanks. It’s hard to put down a tank, even if you put it through war. 

[1point21gigawatts]

6 hours ago, AaronT said:

Imma disagree with ya 1.21

 

You do not want the alt doing all the work, it won't last long like that

 

I like a 60/40 or 70/30 split of the work to batteries/alternator.

 

 

I always run extra batteries even if the alternator can support the total current pull because of an alternator having sporadic amperage changes and so I can have a more stable voltage. 

[fishchris1]

2 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

I always run extra batteries even if the alternator can support the total current pull because of an alternator having sporadic amperage changes and so I can have a more stable voltage. 

Mt stock alternator was rated at 130 amps. I beat the shit out of that thing for 12 years, and it never failed. Plus, it could "almost keep up" with my current system. Then I got my 320 amp alt. This evening I sat in a parking lot idling, and beat my system right to the point of clipping, for an hour. Never dropped below 14 volts. I have one 80 ah Duracell AGM battery ($160). I'm not planning on getting another one, but can't wait to get my bank of super capacitors. I think I'm making more than enough continous power though... even at just idle speed. 

Now granted, I have a pretty modest system. My two amps are only fused for 340 amps, so I probably  never draw more than 200 amps. 

 

Just saying, if I had more / bigger amps, and my total fuse rating was 650 amps, I'd get another alternator.... and NO more batteries. If my total fuse rating were 900 amps, I'd get a 3rd alternator,  and NO more batteries. But I'd run a bank of super caps no matter what.

[audiofanaticz]

An oem alt never having an issue means nothing, none of its internals are being stressed and made to be reliable for the most part.

Where as an aftermarket alternator is having parts stressed to their max doing 2-4 times as much work in the same footprint..

 

Thats like taking a stock LS engine that makes 400hp and having it be stock and never really having issues, but then you throw a pair of turbskis on it with 25 psi of boost and then add a 200 shot kit on top of that to help out that turbo lag and the engine only lasts a couple seasons until you throw a rod or melt some pistons.

At the end of the day no matter how much demand you may toss on that oem alternator, it will never make more amperage than its rated too so its not being taxed to death.

[CstrokerV]

On 6/9/2020 at 7:58 PM, 1point21gigawatts said:

They use extra batteries and caps to keep their voltage up if they already have enough current draw to feed the amps. Since you know so much about the matter, elaborate on what reserve is used for instead of being vague and saying I’m wrong by saying there is more that reserve is for. All you said was a secondary battery is used as a buffer. Explain the whole buffering process and what I left out on what reserve is used for. 

looks like people already did.... because hes been here long enough that he should know this topic was discussed and could of searched it is why i didn't explain shit to him... on top of that you know why i use a reserve because "real men play at 12v"  lol  wish i remembered who said that lol

[Fish Chris]

Okay guys, so let me ask it another way...... How many amp hours are required to run a high powered stereo system ? I already talked about vehicles that used "no battery at all", but only a super capacitor bank, which held enough amp hours to start the vehicle, and then were almost instantly recharged as soon as the alternator got to spinning. Id think that 5 ah should do it..... with a big, strong alternator of course  ....or four of them, depending on the stereo system.

[BassMunky]

Good question