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At the moment I have 2 13w7 with a Rockford t2500 pushing them my voltage drops to 12.5 I’m trying to get it to stay in the 13 when playing full I have a xs d3400 up front and a xstatic batcap 2000 for rear I have a auto tech 320 alternator I was wondering if I should get a dual alternator kit to put the stock alternator back to run the car electrical and the h/o to run the system and put back the stock battery for the stock alternator I’m also gonna be upgrading to a 2 sundown zv5 with a sundown salt series 6k so I know I’m gonna need more battery’s can someone help me out or lead me to the right path for good voltage on what you guys recommend thank you 

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I'm sure what your talking about would help.... But I feel like your 320 amp alt, with that Xs D3400 should be holding up higher. How old is that battery ? I also have a 320 amp alt, pushing a similar mono amp..... a Wolfram 2400.1, and a 4 x 150 Skar for my mids, highs, and mid bass. If I'm parked, idling, and beating the chit out of it, it might drop to 13.8.... and that's if its hot out. Otherwise, it can sometimes even hold 14 volts ! Granted, both my battery, and my alternator are new. Not sure how much, if any, the xstatic batcap is helping. I'm assuming that is like 1 or 2 farads ? I'm just about to put in a 500 farad super cap bank in my truck, but I'm not sure that will do much for constant voltage. Only doing it to stabilize my voltage, and prevent sharp drops with kick drums and such.

 

I do like the idea of more / stronger alternators. Now get ready for everyone to tell you you need more batteries :) lol Just MPO, Id rather make more juice from the get, than try to store a whole bunch of it. You might need a new battery though.

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Both battery and alternator are new wanna say about 6 months I have the big 3 done also and the amp rear battery also wired to the frame but I also have the amps ground wired to my battery ground when I play some lower notes I drop to atleast 12 i tunes amp with oscilloscope 

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Either the alternator is crappy and isn’t putting out enough current or there is a weak connection somewhere in the wiring involved in the alternator and/or battery(s). Plus move the amp grounds to the chassis instead of the negative terminal of the rear battery. Shorten some battery grounds too. Grounds shouldn’t exceed 18”. People always wanna ground to the frame and think just because it’s denser metal and bigger it would make a stronger ground and it will make up for the extra length added to make it to the frame and that is false. Idc what anybody says. Longer the ground, the worse. If it were best to run a long ground from the battery to the frame then vehicle manufacturers would ground the factory battery to the frame and other vehicle components. But where do they ground it? To the chassis. How long are your grounds?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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And did any of the batteries sit for a while without being charged before you installed them? XS batteries HAVE TO BE CHARGED BEFORE USE EVEN IF THEY DONT SIT AND ARE INSTALLED IMMEDIATELY. THEY HAVE TO BE CHARGED WITH A CHARGER BEFORE INSTALLING. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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When I got the xs it was sitting at 13 and the amps are grounded to the battery terminal and the battery grounded to the frame the front battery also grounded to the frame from stock ground to big 3 ground but how do I check if my alternator good I took my truck to autozone have them check battery’s and alternator they said everything good but I wanna know how much power my alternator really puts out the test sheet they gave me says idle it puts out 180 amp and 1800 rpms 330amps it’s a hairpin alternator from auto tech 

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It doesn’t matter what an XS battery is sitting at when you get it, you have to charge it. XS agm batteries sit higher than 13 on the first initial charge. But that’s not the culprit of your voltage problem. That’s just gonna decrease the lifespan of that certain battery because you didn’t charge it before installation. That’s done and over and no need to go on about it. It is what it is. Them battery grounds are too long (move them to the chassis, under the hood battery move to factory ground location) and double up on runs and do dual runs throughout your car audio set up, accept for speaker wiring, and that alternator might have a regulator problem and/or not put enough current. They do alternator load tests at autozone. You would have to take the alternator out of the vehicle though. And you amp ground(s) need to be moved from that battery with long ass grounds to the chassis in different locations if multiple amps to lessen the chance of a ground or a single location of only one amp. Plus, if you did the big 3 upgrade and didn’t reattach the factory positive alternator run, then that affects voltage and causes lower voltage as well. Alternator manufactures will tell you the same thing. If you listen and follow, your problem will l be solved.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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The amp grounds are bout 3 feet long to the rear battery ground and the rear battery ground Goes right underneath to the frame of the truck I only have a run of power wire from the front battery to the back one but i wanna say it might be a voltage regulator that’s in the truck like someone mentioned to me in a message I see more of a voltage drop in afternoon once it’s warm outside voltage goes to 14.0 and when i wanna play it loud it dips into the 12.0 but that’s certain songs but in the mornings or nights when lights turn on voltage at 14.5 and drop to 12.9 or .8 when I play full bass but I lower my bass knob to it stays in the 13s not sure maybe gains need to be set again or something to do with the stupid Battery current sensor that’s connected to the ground of the battery I never had this issue with my 03 Tahoe now I have a 06 suburban 

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