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2009 GMC Sierra dual battery set up


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So I just have a quick question hopefully someone could help me out 

I drew up a diagram on how I’m thinking of wiring my electrical the little squares are fuses 300.

just want to see if this is going to be the best way to go about it 

also everything is going to be under the hood since my truck has an extra battery option 

and all 0 gauge OFC wires 

alternator is a mechman 320 

main battery is xs power D4800 and 2nd is xs power Xp3000

amps are Fosgate T2500bdcp and T600 and T400

thanks in advance 

556C20EE-1EA7-4ACE-AE64-3B1BEF59ED7E.jpeg

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Everything looks good except for connecting the battery’s negative posts. Ground the batteries to the chassis. Find the factory battery grounds and use them locations, just replace or add to with 0 gauge. Make sure the grounds are 18” or less or you voltage will suffer. My homeboy on here had a problem, his rear battery was reading way lower than his alternator and front battery and he shortened the 2 foot frame ground he had to less than a foot to a seat bolt on the chassis and now the rear battery reads the same charge as the rest of the circuit. Plus, his mids and highs amp had a 2 foot or so ground to the frame and it would cut off after a while, so he shortened that ground to a different seat bolt to the chassis and it solved his problem. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Double up on positive battery to battery lead. And double up on battery grounds and double up on battery to alternator ground. And do a dual ground run from frame to engine block to step up a little on the upgrade. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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10 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That doesn’t apply for all the grounds. That’s just on the battery to alternator ground. Plus you still can ground your frame to the engine block as an extra upgrade. Have you ever heard of a big 4 upgrade?

05 and up gm have a battery burden sensor. If there is a ground that is connected to something that is connected to the main battery it will cause a funky charge.  How he has it drawn in his sketch is exactly how I've had all mine. Ground the amps to the frame. Using the 1 (you can fit 2 in the sensor) ground to the extra battery 

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3 hours ago, ToNasty said:

05 and up gm have a battery burden sensor. If there is a ground that is connected to something that is connected to the main battery it will cause a funky charge.  How he has it drawn in his sketch is exactly how I've had all mine. Ground the amps to the frame. Using the 1 (you can fit 2 in the sensor) ground to the extra battery 

Ok, I understand the sensor thing. But the battery grounds can be grounded to the chassis, eliminating that need for another sensor(s) and he would only need a sensor in the negative battery post to alternator ground. But too long of grounds and the voltage will suffer.  No matter how hard the ground is. Why ground the batteries to each other? Why not ground them to the factory locations on the chassis? And why use extra length to ground to the frame when he can use a shorter ground and ground hard to the chassis? Longer grounds always result in the voltage suffering. Always. Some less, some more. But always. So what not eliminate that future problem by shortening the grounds and grounding them to the chassis?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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