raymo2u Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 21 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: Them ports look too close to that roof. If it isn’t 7.9”, or close to, away from that roof it won’t resonate well at all. It will fire back into the enclosure and you’ll lose a bunch of potential output. Don’t get me wrong, it will still hit hard as fugh but no where near as hard as it is suppose to. Might wanna rethink positioning and rebuild the enclosure. But you are probably not gonna because y’all spent so long building that. But what I’m telling you is facts and this problem has been ran into numerous times with resonating issues that take away from output and I know it so well. Just thought I would help. Other than that, the system build itself seems promising and I like it, for sure. Bass on dude! Would it be possible to make flares for the ports or make a curved panel that rides just over the box to aim the air towards the front in situations like this? It would be pretty easy to get a sheet of 1/4" ABS and have it bolt to the box or even reused the port bolts, use a heatgun and a round pipe/object to roll and round the ABS sheet to curve the sheet so it smooths out in line with the roof. Then sand the edges smooth near the ports so the air doesnt hit a "shelf" on its way out. It may be hard to envision but if it would theoretically work, I could draw up what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 21 minutes ago, raymo2u said: Would it be possible to make flares for the ports or make a curved panel that rides just over the box to aim the air towards the front in situations like this? It would be pretty easy to get a sheet of 1/4" ABS and have it bolt to the box or even reused the port bolts, use a heatgun and a round pipe/object to roll and round the ABS sheet to curve the sheet so it smooths out in line with the roof. Then sand the edges smooth near the ports so the air doesnt hit a "shelf" on its way out. It may be hard to envision but if it would theoretically work, I could draw up what I mean. There’s nothing short of just using that enclosure or building another one because of the variables, like area available, positioning and sizing in that build. It would be better to build another enclosure but that enclosure would work, not as ideally, but it would be doable if he wants to settle. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcrnll Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 4 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said: Them ports look too close to that roof. If it isn’t 7.9”, or close to, away from that roof it won’t resonate well at all. It will fire back into the enclosure and you’ll lose a bunch of potential output. Don’t get me wrong, it will still hit hard as fugh but no where near as hard as it is suppose to. Might wanna rethink positioning and rebuild the enclosure. But you are probably not gonna because y’all spent so long building that. But what I’m telling you is facts and this problem has been ran into numerous times with resonating issues that take away from output and I know it so well. Just thought I would help. Other than that, the system build itself seems promising and I like it, for sure. Bass on dude! The port is 9.5" from the roof. It is 14.75" forward from the hatchback. I take full advantage of what's called the horn effect. I wouldn't even consider repositioning. We'll just put it like this, I've already broken the windshield within 10 minutes after tuning this setup but I don't want to spoil all the results😉. My equipment was and still is turned down to about 40% for the break-in period clamping 1100 watts (71.6v x 47.4amp) per speaker rising from .67 to 1.5 at 29hz. I've tested half of the bandwidth so far and it hasn't risen above 2 ohms from 25hz to 40hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcrnll Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 4 hours ago, raymo2u said: Would it be possible to make flares for the ports or make a curved panel that rides just over the box to aim the air towards the front in situations like this? It would be pretty easy to get a sheet of 1/4" ABS and have it bolt to the box or even reused the port bolts, use a heatgun and a round pipe/object to roll and round the ABS sheet to curve the sheet so it smooths out in line with the roof. Then sand the edges smooth near the ports so the air doesnt hit a "shelf" on its way out. It may be hard to envision but if it would theoretically work, I could draw up what I mean. The ports have flares on both sides I think we're on the same page your absolutely right. The top of the hatch rounds to the roof a couple inches behind the port. That's a good idea with the plywood. I'm in the process of designing a stripper pole so that might be a good project to take on while I'm reinforcing my roof, only using birch👍. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 2 hours ago, markcrnll said: The port is 9.5" from the roof. It is 14.75" forward from the hatchback. I take full advantage of what's called the horn effect. I wouldn't even consider repositioning. We'll just put it like this, I've already broken the windshield within 10 minutes after tuning this setup but I don't want to spoil all the results<img src=">. My equipment was and still is turned down to about 40% for the break-in period clamping 1100 watts (71.6v x 47.4amp) per speaker rising from .67 to 1.5 at 29hz. I've tested half of the bandwidth so far and it hasn't risen above 2 ohms from 25hz to 40hz. I thought it was about 4 or 5 inches from the roof. That’s why I said “them ports LOOK too close to the roof”. But now I know the figures and that setup is something serious. Are the subwoofers on a wall with the ports firing upward or are the subwoofers in the top too? I can’t tell. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcrnll Posted July 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 6 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said: I thought it was about 4 or 5 inches from the roof. That’s why I said “them ports LOOK too close to the roof”. But now I know the figures and that setup is something serious. Are the subwoofers on a wall with the ports firing upward or are the subwoofers in the top too? I can’t tell. The subwoofers are walled facing forward only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted July 12, 2020 Report Share Posted July 12, 2020 i didn't see it in the equipment photos, but are you running a line driver in addition to your Atoto? If not, youre missing out on a lot of signal voltage coming from that head unit. I hated my a6, never got loud enough for me. and the touchscreen was all fucky. maybe i just had a bad one. look into a line driver to bump your rca voltage up to at least 5v, you'll net some serious gains both audibly and on the meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcrnll Posted July 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 21 hours ago, bmwking said: i didn't see it in the equipment photos, but are you running a line driver in addition to your Atoto? If not, youre missing out on a lot of signal voltage coming from that head unit. I hated my a6, never got loud enough for me. and the touchscreen was all fucky. maybe i just had a bad one. look into a line driver to bump your rca voltage up to at least 5v, you'll net some serious gains both audibly and on the meter My best guess is you bought the standard Atoto A6, which has 2 volt preouts which is why you didn't get the volume you were looking for. This is the A6 PRO version, much higher rca voltage. As much as I hate this receiver for things like the volume being touch screen and it sometimes is slow I haven't had any issues with with high volume yet. I do plan on selling it soon though to anyone that may want it. Its less then 1 month old and I will be asking 75% of what I paid new for it plus $10 for shipping. I will be posting more updates on the blog alittle later. Big very busy. Mini monster is getting a new rear hub assembly this evening along with new front pads, rotors and a serpentine belt. Bass on bassheads! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwking Posted July 13, 2020 Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 8 hours ago, markcrnll said: My best guess is you bought the standard Atoto A6, which has 2 volt preouts which is why you didn't get the volume you were looking for. This is the A6 PRO version, much higher rca voltage. As much as I hate this receiver for things like the volume being touch screen and it sometimes is slow I haven't had any issues with with high volume yet. I do plan on selling it soon though to anyone that may want it. Its less then 1 month old and I will be asking 75% of what I paid new for it plus $10 for shipping. I will be posting more updates on the blog alittle later. Big very busy. Mini monster is getting a new rear hub assembly this evening along with new front pads, rotors and a serpentine belt. Bass on bassheads! oh i had the pro as well, i wanted the top of the range audio components in it. i knew better. but yeah, is what it is. fwiw i sold mine on ebay for almost exactly what i bought it for, people on there are pretty dumb and will pay retail for used sometimes. i'd say put it up there first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcrnll Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 I still can't believe how small these 800x4s are. Crazy.. The thing better put out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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