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If you set the settings using the manual as a guideline and the gain was set with a meter, they should be fine. If the screw for the ground just spins.... that's your problem.... or at least a problem. It's stripped and not tight at all! Very bad. You need your ground as tight as you can get it, as flush as you can get it, and as short as you can get it, then check it with a multimeter just to double check the spot. That's what I do anyway

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Hold up, I was looking at the pictures wrong. Is that ground the ground to your battery and then the amp has a long ass ground to that battery? That weakens the ground even more. I looked at that ground spot more closely too and i didn’t notice that it is the chassis but the ground is just screwed in with one screw and that is a poor way to ground. Ground the battery shorter and with more screws. Then ground that amp to the chassis near where that battery was grounded so the ground is shorter and make sure you use more screws than one. That’s why your amp is getting hot. That’s it. Im 100% sure. You have a weak ground (on a good location) to a battery then the amp grounded to a battery that has a weak ground and the ground wires are way too long too. That’s a triple whammy. Don’t use that same exact grounding spot either, move the amps ground a little to the side of that one once you remove it. I will circle ground locations and sand the area and use at least 3 self tapping screws on each ground. I like the 3/4” self tapping screws. I will circle ground locations. Fix that and I wouldn’t ever get any work done at that shop again not accept any of their advice. I would just buy products if I needed. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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18 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

self taping screws are the worst thing you can use for a ground. Please tell me you aren't seriously telling him to add 3 screws to make it a good ground.

It’s better than that single screw there that’s the same thing as one self tapping screw grounding his battery which is his amps ground. That’s horrible. What he has is the worst way to ground an amp. Grounding it with a long ground to a battery that has a long ground and weak ground. I never said it was the best ground. But it’s way better than the grounding he has now and will work just fine. A nut and bolt is the best but I don’t see where it can be done because if the minimal pictures and understanding of that vehicles diagram. 3 self tapping screws will work. It isn’t the best but it will work. My bro’s vehicle has an 1000 rms amp grounded short with 3 self tapping screws and voltage is fine and the amp stays cool and it’s been so for almost a year now. If there’s no way to but and bolt then self tapping is the last resort. Going too long to make it to the frame affects voltage even though the ground is more secure. So if you can’t find a place to buy and bolt that’s around 18” away then self tapping is the only way that won’t affect voltage and his amp will stay cool. There is no problem with 3 self tapping screws to ground an amp or battery. It’s not the best but it works. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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