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Do I Need a DSP or Equalizer


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Passive crossovers would crossover at about 3500 hz from mid to tweet and any frequency too low the mid won’t pick up and a good dsp like a Dayton or something is not for somebody who isn’t inclined about car audio and has only hooked one car audio system because it’s so complicated to use its like you need to have a PhD in car audio lol! For a beginner that has a basic loc or interface car audio setup, a dsp isn’t needed and it’s best to recommend passive crossovers to them rather than an active crossover and an EQ wouldn’t be needed because the EQ should be flat anyways to protect against distortion based on the fact he has only hooked up one car audio system. No offense or disrespect intended. I’m sorry if anybody looks into this the wrong way. It would easily confuse him if you recommend anything too much and too complicated for his car audio understanding. That interface paired with a component set and the head unit’s EQs set on flat (“0) would make things super easy for him with little room for error and would sound good.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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On 8/9/2020 at 11:40 AM, 1point21gigawatts said:

Passive crossovers would crossover at about 3500 hz from mid to tweet and any frequency too low the mid won’t pick up and a good dsp like a Dayton or something is not for somebody who isn’t inclined about car audio and has only hooked one car audio system because it’s so complicated to use its like you need to have a PhD in car audio lol! For a beginner that has a basic loc or interface car audio setup, a dsp isn’t needed and it’s best to recommend passive crossovers to them rather than an active crossover and an EQ wouldn’t be needed because the EQ should be flat anyways to protect against distortion based on the fact he has only hooked up one car audio system. No offense or disrespect intended. I’m sorry if anybody looks into this the wrong way. It would easily confuse him if you recommend anything too much and too complicated for his car audio understanding. That interface paired with a component set and the head unit’s EQs set on flat (“0) would make things super easy for him with little room for error and would sound good.

Ya know, I agree that DSP's are pretty technical, and can be a huge PITA, especially for someone without a lot of car audio experience. 

But I was told that if I wanted to keep my stock HU, it would basically sound like shit without a DSP. Not sure if that was 100% true or not, but I got an Axxess DSP,  and it sounds fantastic 🙂

Granted, even with 30 years of experience, it was still really painful getting that thing setup, and halfway dialed in.

 

Now in my truck, I had an aftermarket HU, so I really didn't have to have a DSP, at all, but I got the Dayton 408 for $150, and it helped a ton ! Also a PITA to get setup and semi dialed in though....

 

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