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need general wiring advice


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4 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

You need to reconfigure the grounding in the trunk too. I can help you with that. Easy. Are there other grounding location in that trunk close to that shelf where the amps are? Post pictures of potential spots. 

it's pretty late, so if it's settled, i can pull everything out the trunk and pull the carpet back tomorrow.

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That battery has to have 2 ground runs going straight to the chassis or frame. Then on that grounding block, it has to have 2 grounds coming from one post on that grounding block going to the chassis or frame. Each one of these dual grounds should be on a different bolt. 2 battery grounds on one bolt and 2 grounding block grounds on one bolt. You have one grounding location already so use that for one of the dual grounds and you need to make another grounding location in you trunk. Then run the grounds from the grounding block to the amps. Or you can just ground the amps to the chassis and forget the block. Because the block technically makes the grounds longer. For optimal voltage stability, grounds should be 18” or less. My recommendations is to take out the grounding block and ground the battery like I said with dual grounds and ground each amp separately to the chassis and take one positive feed and ground feed off that smart 3 because a smart 3 cannot generate enough current to surpass the capabilities of one 1/0 gauge ofc wire. Check the amp’s specs. 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Just now, 1point21gigawatts said:

That battery has to have 2 ground runs going straight to the chassis or frame. Then on that grounding block, it has to have 2 grounds coming from one post on that grounding block going to the chassis or frame. Each one of these dual grounds should be on a different bolt. 2 battery grounds on one bolt and 2 grounding block grounds on one bolt. You have one grounding location already so use that for one of the dual grounds and you need to make another grounding location in you trunk. Then run the grounds from the grounding block to the amps. Or you can just ground the amps to the chassis and forget the block. Because the block technically makes the grounds longer. For optimal voltage stability, grounds should be 18” or less. My recommendations is to take out the grounding block and ground the battery like I said with dual grounds and ground each amp separately to the chassis and take one positive feed and ground feed off that smart 3 because a smart 3 cannot generate enough current to surpass the capabilities of one 1/0 gauge ofc wire. Check the amp’s specs. 

i was switching my amps around so i just kept the dual wiring kit together and plugged it in. i could use those wires for the battery.

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3 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

That battery has to have 2 ground runs going straight to the chassis or frame. Then on that grounding block, it has to have 2 grounds coming from one post on that grounding block going to the chassis or frame. Each one of these dual grounds should be on a different bolt. 2 battery grounds on one bolt and 2 grounding block grounds on one bolt. You have one grounding location already so use that for one of the dual grounds and you need to make another grounding location in you trunk. Then run the grounds from the grounding block to the amps. Or you can just ground the amps to the chassis and forget the block. Because the block technically makes the grounds longer. For optimal voltage stability, grounds should be 18” or less. My recommendations is to take out the grounding block and ground the battery like I said with dual grounds and ground each amp separately to the chassis and take one positive feed and ground feed off that smart 3 because a smart 3 cannot generate enough current to surpass the capabilities of one 1/0 gauge ofc wire. Check the amp’s specs. 

so i should ground the battery to the frame and ground each amp to the body in the trunk? what about the extra power wire from the rear battery? is that necessary? 

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21 minutes ago, 3000iphones said:

so i should ground the battery to the frame and ground each amp to the body in the trunk? what about the extra power wire from the rear battery? is that necessary? 

You don’t have to go far as the frame. You can ground the battery to the chassis/body of the vehicle in the trunk. What do you mean extra wire from the battery?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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18 minutes ago, 3000iphones said:

so i should do..... TWO grounds from battery to frame, and each amp ground to a separate spot in the trunk, correct? and i can run both battery grounds to the same frame bolt?

 

thanks for your time!!!!!!

Correct 

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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3 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

But if you do go to the frame outside the vehicle then you have to spray paint the connection with oil based enamel spray paint after it’s connected to protect it from corrosion and rust.

i painted over front and rear frame grounds. and i mean i have two power wires coming from the rear battery. is that necessary? 

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