Morgan_Meigs Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I’m thinking of upgrading my system. Just wanted to know if it would all work well together and any tips or ideas I should know. Anything you would keep or change from the old setup? Thanks!Current Setup:• Skar TX65C 100 rms components • Skar TX69 120 rms coaxial • Skar SK-M4004D 400 watt 4 channelNew Setup:• Skar (2 pairs) SPX-T 80 rms tweeters• Skar FSX65 150 rms loudspeakers • Skar TX69 120 rms coaxial • Skar RP-75. AB 500 watt 4 channel (if needed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Me personally, I would up it to an 800.4 if you can. Make sure you get a passive crossover preferably made by skar as well, for the tweeters and the loudspeakers. I assume you would want to run a tweeter and loudspeaker on the same channel and if you don't run a passive crossover, you'll pop those tweeters real quick. Or, you have to go active crossover with a DSP. I've read those can be very tricky though and you could end up doing more damage than good. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan_Meigs Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Thanks man. I appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Not trying to be rude at all, but next time you have a question, or if you have any follow up questions, please make sure they are placed in the correct sub category. Thus particular question, I would have asked it in the mids and highs sub. Gotta keep scrolling until you find the right one 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperNoFlavors Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 I have a very similar setup (for your new setup) I have 2 FSX65 in the doors along with 2 bullet tweeters from skar. I am running them active (no passive crossover box) on a skar rp.1000 4 channel. The rp.1000 has a band pass filter so you can set the range on channel 1&2 and 3&4. (SMD makes a tool to dial this in) however I went with a Kenwood Dmx706s which has a DSP and 3-way crossovers built in. For this reason, everything is set right on my head unit, and my amp is set to full. Makes for very precise and dynamic range. (Plus it’s easier to setup) I do have bass block capacitors connected to my tweeters so they will not play anything under 4k (just incase something fails or the speakers pop when amps are turned on) just a thought here... if you do not want to upgrade your HU just go with an amp with a band pass filter and run your tweeters on channel 3-4 and doors on 1-2. I had the skar components you have in your current build and I felt they sounded very washed out and not warm at all (kinda harsh at full volume) I did run the TX65 in this same setup active with the bullet tweeters and they sounded beautiful! One thing to take into account is that passive crossovers can eat up to 40% of the power before delivering it to your speakers. So if you run passive, you will basically need an amp that can supply 3x your speaker rating. Active is the way to go for sure. hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperNoFlavors Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 Just now, PaperNoFlavors said: I have a very similar setup (for your new setup) I have 2 FSX65 in the doors along with 2 bullet tweeters from skar. I am running them active (no passive crossover box) on a skar rp.1000 4 channel. The rp.1000 has a band pass filter so you can set the range on channel 1&2 and 3&4. (SMD makes a tool to dial this in) however I went with a Kenwood Dmx706s which has a DSP and 3-way crossovers built in. For this reason, everything is set right on my head unit, and my amp is set to full. Makes for very precise and dynamic range. (Plus it’s easier to setup) I do have bass block capacitors connected to my tweeters so they will not play anything under 4k (just incase something fails or the speakers pop when amps are turned on) just a thought here... if you do not want to upgrade your HU just go with an amp with a band pass filter and run your tweeters on channel 3-4 and doors on 1-2. I had the skar components you have in your current build and I felt they sounded very washed out and not warm at all (kinda harsh at full volume) I did run the TX65 in this same setup active with the bullet tweeters and they sounded beautiful! One thing to take into account is that passive crossovers can eat up to 40% of the power before delivering it to your speakers. So if you run passive, you will basically need an amp that can supply 3x your speaker rating. Active is the way to go for sure. hope this helps! Oh and consider getting rid of the rear speakers... unless you have passengers a lot. I have a Ford Expedition (very large) and opted to go without the rear speakers. I have passengers in the back Every now and then, but the front is so loud it doesn’t really matter. Plus, you will be the one in the car most of the time anyways. Having the mids and highs come from the front make staging your sound much easier and makes everything sound a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan_Meigs Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 6 hours ago, PaperNoFlavors said: I have a very similar setup (for your new setup) I have 2 FSX65 in the doors along with 2 bullet tweeters from skar. I am running them active (no passive crossover box) on a skar rp.1000 4 channel. The rp.1000 has a band pass filter so you can set the range on channel 1&2 and 3&4. (SMD makes a tool to dial this in) however I went with a Kenwood Dmx706s which has a DSP and 3-way crossovers built in. For this reason, everything is set right on my head unit, and my amp is set to full. Makes for very precise and dynamic range. (Plus it’s easier to setup) I do have bass block capacitors connected to my tweeters so they will not play anything under 4k (just incase something fails or the speakers pop when amps are turned on) just a thought here... if you do not want to upgrade your HU just go with an amp with a band pass filter and run your tweeters on channel 3-4 and doors on 1-2. I had the skar components you have in your current build and I felt they sounded very washed out and not warm at all (kinda harsh at full volume) I did run the TX65 in this same setup active with the bullet tweeters and they sounded beautiful! One thing to take into account is that passive crossovers can eat up to 40% of the power before delivering it to your speakers. So if you run passive, you will basically need an amp that can supply 3x your speaker rating. Active is the way to go for sure. hope this helps! This helped out a ton! Thank you so much!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan_Meigs Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 6 hours ago, PaperNoFlavors said: Oh and consider getting rid of the rear speakers... unless you have passengers a lot. I have a Ford Expedition (very large) and opted to go without the rear speakers. I have passengers in the back Every now and then, but the front is so loud it doesn’t really matter. Plus, you will be the one in the car most of the time anyways. Having the mids and highs come from the front make staging your sound much easier and makes everything sound a lot better. Ok, sounds like a better way to go to me. Thanks a million! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan_Meigs Posted September 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 6 hours ago, PaperNoFlavors said: I have a very similar setup (for your new setup) I have 2 FSX65 in the doors along with 2 bullet tweeters from skar. I am running them active (no passive crossover box) on a skar rp.1000 4 channel. The rp.1000 has a band pass filter so you can set the range on channel 1&2 and 3&4. (SMD makes a tool to dial this in) however I went with a Kenwood Dmx706s which has a DSP and 3-way crossovers built in. For this reason, everything is set right on my head unit, and my amp is set to full. Makes for very precise and dynamic range. (Plus it’s easier to setup) I do have bass block capacitors connected to my tweeters so they will not play anything under 4k (just incase something fails or the speakers pop when amps are turned on) just a thought here... if you do not want to upgrade your HU just go with an amp with a band pass filter and run your tweeters on channel 3-4 and doors on 1-2. I had the skar components you have in your current build and I felt they sounded very washed out and not warm at all (kinda harsh at full volume) I did run the TX65 in this same setup active with the bullet tweeters and they sounded beautiful! One thing to take into account is that passive crossovers can eat up to 40% of the power before delivering it to your speakers. So if you run passive, you will basically need an amp that can supply 3x your speaker rating. Active is the way to go for sure. hope this helps! I have a Pioneer MVH1400NEX. Would this have a DSP and the same x over system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperNoFlavors Posted September 10, 2020 Report Share Posted September 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Morgan_Meigs said: I have a Pioneer MVH1400NEX. Would this have a DSP and the same x over system? Honestly, I don’t use the dsp with my setup. A external DSP (not in HU) allows you to set the exact x over points much like my head unit. You have some big options here. 1. You go with a Audio Control amp that has a DSP/over you set via Bluetooth on your computer (good this and check it out) they are pretty expensive though. 2. You do a similar setup to mine. 3. (Most budget option without SMD TOOLS). You use the rp.1000 bandpass filter that’s lets you control the xover with knobs on the amp. And you keep the HU you have now. If you went this route I would look into getting a SMD DD-1 (about $200) and set your crossover points with it (does it to the exact freq.) and certainly look into a SMD - DD1 so you will not have distortion (another $200) this is where it gets expensive to fine tune things. The DSP on my head unit (separate from a 3 way xover built in) allows you to delay the speakers playing by milliseconds based on how far away you are from the speaker. (So it doesn’t sound like you hear your left driver speakers more) if you went with option 2 you would spend about $400 on the H/U but would have everything right there. Make sure if you go this route you choose an (Exelon model) so it will have 3 way mode (networking mode) this was actually my first build and obv I learned a lot. However you do get to the point of spending some serious money, so really consider what you are going for. I took the h/u option for my X overs because I knew the H/u will hold its value and have a larger market than the audio control amp, if I ever got a new vehicle and needed to start over. OKAY, So I just looked up your HU and it does have networking mode. I’m going to leave the other details up for anyone in the future. See attached specs on your HU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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