Morgan_Meigs Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 23 hours ago, PaperNoFlavors said: Honestly, I don’t use the dsp with my setup. A external DSP (not in HU) allows you to set the exact x over points much like my head unit. You have some big options here. 1. You go with a Audio Control amp that has a DSP/over you set via Bluetooth on your computer (good this and check it out) they are pretty expensive though. 2. You do a similar setup to mine. 3. (Most budget option without SMD TOOLS). You use the rp.1000 bandpass filter that’s lets you control the xover with knobs on the amp. And you keep the HU you have now. If you went this route I would look into getting a SMD DD-1 (about $200) and set your crossover points with it (does it to the exact freq.) and certainly look into a SMD - DD1 so you will not have distortion (another $200) this is where it gets expensive to fine tune things. The DSP on my head unit (separate from a 3 way xover built in) allows you to delay the speakers playing by milliseconds based on how far away you are from the speaker. (So it doesn’t sound like you hear your left driver speakers more) if you went with option 2 you would spend about $400 on the H/U but would have everything right there. Make sure if you go this route you choose an (Exelon model) so it will have 3 way mode (networking mode) this was actually my first build and obv I learned a lot. However you do get to the point of spending some serious money, so really consider what you are going for. I took the h/u option for my X overs because I knew the H/u will hold its value and have a larger market than the audio control amp, if I ever got a new vehicle and needed to start over. OKAY, So I just looked up your HU and it does have networking mode. I’m going to leave the other details up for anyone in the future. See attached specs on your HU That was so helpful, you’re awesome man. Thank you so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperNoFlavors Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Absolutely, I do not know it all and probably made some mistakes in my answer to you... Getting a dd-1 will eliminate your frustrations with the doors sounding decent. its hard to set the gains on a 4 channel by ear... IMO. Do you have anything for bass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaperNoFlavors Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 On 9/9/2020 at 8:47 PM, Morgan_Meigs said: I’m thinking of upgrading my system. Just wanted to know if it would all work well together and any tips or ideas I should know. Anything you would keep or change from the old setup? Thanks!Current Setup:• Skar TX65C 100 rms components • Skar TX69 120 rms coaxial • Skar SK-M4004D 400 watt 4 channelNew Setup:• Skar (2 pairs) SPX-T 80 rms tweeters• Skar FSX65 150 rms loudspeakers • Skar TX69 120 rms coaxial • Skar RP-75. AB 500 watt 4 channel (if needed) Oh and just to sum it up — I think this is the best route as I ran the TX65C speaker with upgraded tweeters and the doors sounded very good You keep your HU for networking mode to set xovers Keep your component woofers (ran active on channel 1-2) Upgrade your tweets (ran active on channel 3-4) Delete your rear fill speakers Consider the rp1000.4 4 channel (as it is 150w rms @4ohm) {The tx65 are 100w rms and the FSX65 are 150w rms @ 4ohms} Plus you can always get the FSX65 if your not happy with the tx65 woofer ran active Passive crossovers can eat as much as 40% of the power meaning you will not always get a number close to the channel RMS I do not know what you have for bass. Also, the mounting depth of the FSX65 is 2.67 inches (I think) I had to do some major modifications to the doors to get these to fit. However the tx65 woofer did sound very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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