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Sound digital power 3300.1 vs deafbounce aak 2000.1


Jeremy009

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20 minutes ago, Backwoods said:

 

Too much for which sub?

 

Properly set, Id personally have no fear with the DD712 ... I put the SFB2K on 2 of the DD 200 series 10s just to try it out and they took it like a champ. They played full tilt with the SFB1K for a couple weeks with no issues.... The 700 series are much more robust. 

 

Could always turn the gain down a bit. But cant always turn it up without clipping. In the last few months i have come to the conclusion its always better to get the bigger amp up front.

I was talking about on an xfl. But even on a dd 700, it would give out after a while, even on no clipping. And weighing in the fact of the amount of knowledge this guy has pertaining to car audio, he is gonna clip. Never recommend way too much rms to somebody that doesn’t know how to use it. It could result in damage to their gear that they were looking forward to and loving like a girlfriend. You don’t want that to happen to somebody. I don’t. Another thing, go on YouTube and see if you find somebody running a 3k wired to 1 ohm or whatever 3k on that is, on a dd 700 or an xfl. There is one guy who is using a cheap 3k that doesn’t do 3k on an 12” xfl and another guy who thinks he has his xfl1044 wire to 1 ohm on a 3k. But how can you wire a dual 4 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm lol? I tried to find somebody running 3k rms on one of them subwoofers and I couldn’t. 3k rms is too much. Especially a soundigi that does way more than 3k rms at the average 14.4v rating.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Ok. Thanks. Not like i didnt admit i didnt know much lol. Anyways, can you give me a bit more details about the box design? I saw you said something about 2.75cubes net or ?? If its net, that may be a bit to large of an enclosure. Can we come uo with something a bit smaller that would get at what am looking for?

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5 minutes ago, Jeremy009 said:

Ok. Thanks. Not like i didnt admit i didnt know much lol. Anyways, can you give me a bit more details about the box design? I saw you said something about 2.75cubes net or ?? If its net, that may be a bit to large of an enclosure. Can we come uo with something a bit smaller that would get at what am looking for?

Yes. 2.75 cubic foot net volume. You want deeper and louder bass, then a 10%-20% increase is needed. Just because a company recommends a certain size doesn’t mean it isn’t optimal to go outside of them recommendations. You are on a forum of bass heads that know a thing or 2, not a car audio company website that is trying to sell you a subwoofer and recommend something to cover their ass on warranty issues when noobs clip and bottom out subwoofers because they don’t know what they are doing. 2.75 cubic feet of net volume isn’t too big. Its a 10% increase. And it would be tuned lower to compensate the volume increase. That enclosure would sound better and hit harder than that 2.25 cubic foot enclosure you wanted that’s tuned to 35hz.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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Ok. Thanks a million.  Ill go with the 2.75net, 14sq" per cube tube to 32hz. And no, i didnt come here to do 'vs' crap yall talking about. Am just working with a budget and finding out from people who know a thing or 2 as you said. But thanks again. All the best...ill let yall know how it sounds

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9 minutes ago, Jeremy009 said:

Ok. Thanks a million.  Ill go with the 2.75net, 14sq" per cube tube to 32hz. And no, i didnt come here to do 'vs' crap yall talking about. Am just working with a budget and finding out from people who know a thing or 2 as you said. But thanks again. All the best...ill let yall know how it sounds

You are welcome! I just get on edge when I speak on something I know and it’s correct and then somebody thinks it’s wrong. I guess I over reacted a bit. But man, these “vs” threads about had me kinda arguing with a member on here that I like and rock with and then had me snapping on you. Lol that’s why this forum doesn’t do “vs” threads anymore.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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35 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

I was talking about on an xfl. But even on a dd 700, it would give out after a while, even on no clipping. And weighing in the fact of the amount of knowledge this guy has pertaining to car audio, he is gonna clip. Never recommend way too much rms to somebody that doesn’t know how to use it. It could result in damage to their gear that they were looking forward to and loving like a girlfriend. You don’t want that to happen to somebody. I don’t. Another thing, go on YouTube and see if you find somebody running a 3k wired to 1 ohm or whatever 3k on that is, on a dd 700 or an xfl. There is one guy who is using a cheap 3k that doesn’t do 3k on an 12” xfl and another guy who thinks he has his xfl1044 wire to 1 ohm on a 3k. But how can you wire a dual 4 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm lol? I tried to find somebody running 3k rms on one of them subwoofers and I couldn’t. 3k rms is too much. Especially a soundigi that does way more than 3k rms at the average 14.4v rating.

 

 Man... You're wrong...... Wrong wrong wrong...

 

:D just kidding :D

 

Yeah your right.... The more power over rms you push to a sub the shorter their lifespan will be. And sometimes i think about things from my  own perspective and not from the person's asking perspective. I would run a 3k to a dd712.... But id set it properly and watch it very closely and turn the gain down as needed. If i blew it, that would be my fault and id have no one to blame but me. So i get what your saying. 

 

And those SounDigitals are beasts. Hell my new 5K is rated at 6530 watts at 14.4.  The Fi subs i have coming are only rated at 1500rms each without any extra options... Mine is coming fully loaded but still, i wont be setting the amp to its full potential. Which is good for the amp as well. I stay at about 14 volts now with regular battery and the 250amp alt... My lithium should be here friday.... Will have to see how my voltage looks after that. 

Singer 250amp Alt, Singer PCM bypass harness

Titan8 Lithium Underhood safe BCI PWR-S5

Big 3 W/ dual runs of power/ground. All 1/0awg OFC

SounDigital EVO 5K amp, Two 15" Fi SSD subs

Next Level Fabrication @ 7 cubes net, tuned to 32HZ 

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Keep us posted. I saw my local dealer selling the machete sport 2000.1. He says it basically the same as the db aak 2000.1. I am a biggerbfan of the Koreans but, that extra power on the brazillians are just tempting.  Btw, my electrical is a 160alt and 2 northstar agms. But in terms of how they sound on daily bass. Eg the sfb2k and a db 2k. Is 2k just 2k or does 1 sound better. Oe is a brazilian 2k different from a korean 2k? Any experience with that

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8 hours ago, Jeremy009 said:

Keep us posted. I saw my local dealer selling the machete sport 2000.1. He says it basically the same as the db aak 2000.1. I am a biggerbfan of the Koreans but, that extra power on the brazillians are just tempting.  Btw, my electrical is a 160alt and 2 northstar agms. But in terms of how they sound on daily bass. Eg the sfb2k and a db 2k. Is 2k just 2k or does 1 sound better. Oe is a brazilian 2k different from a korean 2k? Any experience with that

That’s not true. Your dealer wants to make a sale. He is either not knowledgeable or is looking at you like a noob that he can make money on. That deaf bonce aak is better. it’s built better and can take more abuse and heat. It does more rms than that machete amp and does the same rms as that sfb amp but is built better than that sfb amp, way more reliable. And I’m pretty sure the machete amps are Chinese made boards. Alphard audio has a bunch of their audio made in China. Shit, the deaf bonce db-sa412s I have are made in China. The deaf bonce aa(k) amps are Korean made boards and the deaf bonce aa(b) amps are Brazilian made boards. And sfb amps are Chinese made boards. That aak is better.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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That 2000 watts rms machete amp is the same price as a deaf bonce aab-4900.1d. Brazilian board amps are cheaper than Chinese board amps. Plus you can notice that alphard audio rates their Brazilian board amps at 12v (even though they have 14.4v rating listed, the 4900 rms is at 12v, meaning it’s rated at 12v) They rate their Korean board amps and Chinese board amps at 14.4v even though they list 15v ratings on the Chinese board amps, the 2000 rms is at 14.4v. If it were a Brazilian board amp that 2000 rms would be rated at 12v. The machete amps are Chinese made boards, not Brazilian.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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