2013 Honda Accord ELD Issues

[randomman02x]

I currently got my new system all wired up and ready to go until I found out about the 9th gen Honda's lovely ELD system, and I'm sure many others have run into the exact situation and frustration that I'm currently in. I've been searching for days and days on any solution to be able to disable, bypass, or delete (worse case scenario) the ELD system on a 9th gen, or higher model, Honda accord. I learned that the 9th gen Honda's switched to LIN line controlled charging systems that connects the alternator and PCM where the alternator provides feedback to the PCM and in return the PCM tells the alternator when to charge and not to charge. On 8th gen and below Hondas the procedure was simple in that you could install a bypass involving a 3 pole switch, relay, 820ohm resistor, and wire to trick the ELD that there was a load and it would put the alternator in a "high charge mode" and would give you a steady 14v and when the switch was turned off the ELD would take back over and allow it to regulate the alternator like it normally would. Here is the ELD bypass for later year Honda's that I found. This bypass can not be used on 9th gen Honda's...

 

The first "legitimate" solution that I can find is buying Hondata FlashPro Accord 2013-2015 US L4 (CARB) (for 4 cylinder models) and disabling the ELD system through the misc. functions tab within FlashPro and re-flashing the PCM. The unit itself cost $500 which is pretty pricey considering I'm only going to use it for one function and not use it anymore after that.

 

I'm not by any means a electrical engineer or expert on building circuits, but one solution that I thought in my head was splicing into the single pin connector that goes into the alternator that goes to a switch and manually turns on the alternator when turned on and puts it back into it's normal mode when turned off, but I'm pretty sure that would cause some implications and possibly cause something to break, codes through, and lights on the dash. The reason behind this idea is that Mike Singer makes a custom connector (see picture below) for his alternators that connects to the factory harness with a extra ring terminal that connects onto the alternators positive lead giving a false load to the ELD and in return makes the alternator fucking crank, but on the Honda alternator it is a single pin connector going into the alternator which makes me believe that this idea will not work sadly. If anyone can give any input on this idea it would be appreciated, or you can just tell me that it's a horrible idea and why did I even think of such a stupid thing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The third solution is waiting for US Alternators to release their custom PCM with a potentiometer allowing you to completely override the ELD and battery sensor and control the voltage from 11v-16v while also allowing the aftermarket PCM to send error codes if in the event there actually is a fault with something. The release date is yet to be announced and who knows when that product will actually be put out on the market but seems to be, in my eyes, the best possible solution to bypassing the ELD system in 2013 and higher year Honda's. Here's a link to US Alternator's PCM w/ potentiometer

 

As I said before, I'm not really sure the direction that I need to take to fix this issue (other than not buying a Honda with this stupid ass ELD system on it), but I'm also not the first person to encounter this on a 9th gen Honda so there must be some secret or procedure in order to fix this. I have also read that some people with 9th gen Honda's can simply turn on their ac and the voltage stays at 14v or keep the headlights on and again the voltage stays at 14v, but in my case neither work. While having a DMM connected to the battery, I turned on the ac compressor on the voltage will climb to 14v but only to decrease to its sad ~12v within a couple seconds and the same applies to the headlight trick. Sometimes the voltage will stay at 14v when both are on but only temporarily and then dip back down to 12v and with the subs turned up it can reach 11v which is just awful and makes it so I can't have my system turned up. Does anyone else have a different approach to bypassing the ELD or have a link to a forum that explains the process of doing this? Or am I pretty much SOL and have to buy FlashPro. I'm truly at a loss as what to do next without damaging and having to replace a PCM or damaging other various electrical components due to incorrect instructions and procedures. I've read some people have taken apart the fuse box and disconnected the 3 pin plug to the ELD sensor and got 14v but in return had multiple lights on their dash.

 

Equipment:

Power Bastards 250amp alt

Skar RP-3500.1D

Skar VXF 12 D2

1/0 OFC running to everything

3 750cca AGM batteries (one in engine bay, 2 in the trunk)

[Joshdashef]

Honda ELD is a bitch. On the 8th gens you can just unplug it but I don't think that applies to the 9th gens... 

 

Maybe throw a bone to the alt companies like Mechman, US Alts, Stinger, etc. 

[randomman02x]

1 hour ago, Joshdashef said:

Honda ELD is a bitch. On the 8th gens you can just unplug it but I don't think that applies to the 9th gens... 

 

Maybe throw a bone to the alt companies like Mechman, US Alts, Stinger, etc. 

So I did end up emailing power bastards asking if they had a solution to this and I predict that they will tell "sorry you're screwed" which is what other 9th gen Honda owners have received from Mechman and Singer in he past because of the alternator works. In the mean time I kept on searching on how to deal with this bullshit. What I found out is (at least for my Honda and the same concept can apply to others) Honda put in this lovely dual charge mode that is supposed to basically make your alternator work just barely enough and that's it and only goes up to 14v when a load is seen from the PCM but then will go back down to it's sad barely 12v. This can fixed by buying a Hondata FlashPro. Within the FlashPro manager under the misc. section you are able to disable ELD and fuel economy alternator control and other various parameters. Fuel economy alternator control is what is controlling the dual charge mode causing it to sweep from 12v-14v. Once this is disabled the alternator should stay at a steady ~14v-14.5v and solving the very frustrating alternator limitation that I, and many others, have run into. But, here's another issue, Hondata FlashPro isn't fucking cheap! (Or at least for my budget!)

 

Hondata FlashPro Accord 2013-2015 US L4 (CARB): $495

https://www.hondata.com/products/flashpro/flashpro-accord-2013-l4-carb

 

Hondata FlashPro Accord 2013-2015 US L4 (RACE): $695

https://www.hondata.com/products/flashpro/flashpro-accord-2013-l4

 

I don't plan on tuning my car or changing fuel mapping so spending $500 on a piece of equipment I'm only going to use once seems a little steep to me.

 

Another way that I'm going to try and combat this problem, and save money in the mean time, is to see if a Honda dealership is capable of disabling this feature. A buddy of mine works at a Honda dealer and I'm going to get in touch with him in the morning to see if their software goes in-depth enough to disable this feature and test to make sure it's sitting at a constant 14v without sweep. I know the Ford VCM 2 with Ford IDS will go pretty in-depthish as to what you can do within the car and would assume Honda would have an equivalent or better programming tool. Now, assuming if this is possible and all goes well, I realize this option really isn't available to everyone as a phone call to your local dealership asking to disable ELD and fuel economy alternator control probably wouldn't go as planned unless you knew someone that worked there.

 

Since the alternator is constantly monitored by the PCM using can bus, to my knowledge, this can not be physically altered, bypassed, or deleted which is a huge slap to the face when putting in a some what demanding system into a 9th gen or higher Honda. So, if you're planning on putting in a semi-serious or fucking ground pounder into the trunk of 9th gen accord I guess you should add $500 to the price tag to get rid of that feature Honda as put in place. Personally, I don't really care about the gas mileage loss, I just want steady voltage and my amp to be happy and no depressed like it is now when it dips to 11v or lower... I've also read that some people have just upgraded the battery and after that had no performance issues or significant voltage drop.

 

I did see on another forum that someone put in an older Singer alt into a 9th gen civic and wired his own ignition source to it and completely bypassed the ELD, PCM, and all the can bus bullshit and was sitting at a steady 14.2v by using an older style alternator that doesn't rely on a computer. Now, as to what alternator model he used, or if it was custom build in a factory alt shell, or any other technical specs I have no idea because the post was extremely vague. That is another option available and is possibly cheaper as long as the new alternator going in does not include can bus connector and you can manually wire it yourself.

 

There could possibly be other cheaper alternatives to bypassing a 9th gen Honda's (and newer) ELD, fuel economy alternator control, and PCM holding it back from it's full potential, but from what I've researched and looked up I have found absolutely nothing and surprised that nobody has made any progress on this issue or just simply don't care about it and are happy with shitty voltage going to their system. Most of the forums start off promising and then the conversation all of a sudden starts talking about how to change a ball joint or some shit and never gets back to the main topic...

 

Hopefully this helps anyone trying to figure out solutions to this problem and can add input on this as I have not seen a solution to this and that the Hondata Flashpro route is probably the safest, but more expensive.

[Joshdashef]

Those flashpros are no cheap frill at 500 and 700. I hope the dealership can help you man, and if not then perhaps the method of completely bypassing the bus is the best option as far as budget is concerned.