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Help on system voltage without HO Alt


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My stock alt cannot be changed as it's liquid cooled (porsche cayenne) 190 amp stock. Already checked with mech and others. Any suggestions on what I can do maybe adding lithium or extra agms to keep me above 13v? Dropping to like 12.1 at idle.

Playing regular music with heavy bass (jeezy) and spl tracks also. Would a cyber 12k or titan 8 as a secondary help out or two titan 8 one main and one secondary work? 

 

System includes

4.5cf box 2.25 per sub @36hz

2 12" SD X series v.2

2 Kicker CX1800's one per sub @ 1 ohm ea

Both amps have dual 4ga power wires, 2 runs per amp.

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10 hours ago, Neo2020 said:

My stock alt cannot be changed as it's liquid cooled (porsche cayenne) 190 amp stock. Already checked with mech and others. Any suggestions on what I can do maybe adding lithium or extra agms to keep me above 13v? Dropping to like 12.1 at idle.

Playing regular music with heavy bass (jeezy) and spl tracks also. Would a cyber 12k or titan 8 as a secondary help out or two titan 8 one main and one secondary work? 

 

System includes

4.5cf box 2.25 per sub @36hz

2 12" SD X series v.2

2 Kicker CX1800's one per sub @ 1 ohm ea

Both amps have dual 4ga power wires, 2 runs per amp.

Have you measured voltage at alternator or battery while playing? Or just at the amp?

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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No doubt would adding a lithium or agm in the back help, I’d just like to know the voltage drop over the 4ga from front to back. I’d say run some 1/0 ofc!

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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I have an inline voltmeter system sits at 15.1 idle and drops to 11.9 on heavy bass note songs or spl tracks. I measured 15.1 at the alt and volt meter inside shows the same so it's pretty accurate. Each amp has dual 4ga inputs so that's why I kept it at 4ga. Two runs on each amp. Im just not sure if running almost 4k rms will damage the alt without any addon batteries. 

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So here’s my experience- stock 160a alternator, and 1/0 to taramps smart 3 powering 1 power acoustik bamf 104. Hitting some lows, voltage at the amp would drop to 10 something literally shaking the dash apart lol. Added an agm  battery to the rear, and never saw lower than 12v. Upgraded much since then so the setup is what you read in my sig. but the rear reserve helped tremendously 

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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Just to add to Jake w. 

My experience on 4k (what I'm running now, 4 JL JX 1000/1's at 2 ohm each) 

The shop first installed 2 80 ah AGM batteries and rebuilt my alternator to 240 amp. Wasn't close to enough. The bass kicked and the amps went into protect. Upgraded to a mechman 370 and it fixed the problem, runs like a champ. 

You're situation is completely different, not being able to run a HO alternator. Adding batteries could help, but also could damage the alternator because it wouldn't be able to keep up with charging the batteries. Along with newer and high end cars wanting to take control of every aspect of the vehicle, including charging, this could be a huge issue as well. 

My recommendation, as to not damage your nice, expensive car (those porsches are dope by the way!) Do a little research on the car audio shops around you and take it to one that has the best reputation you can. Chances are, they've dealt with this situation before, and can help you without guess work. It sucks, but it's true, anything can be fixed with enough knowledge and money. Taking it to a shop kind of sucks, I know, but I wouldn't chance it with a high end vehicle such as yours. 

That's my opinion anyway. Hope this helps

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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27 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

Just to add to Jake w. 

My experience on 4k (what I'm running now, 4 JL JX 1000/1's at 2 ohm each) 

The shop first installed 2 80 ah AGM batteries and rebuilt my alternator to 240 amp. Wasn't close to enough. The bass kicked and the amps went into protect. Upgraded to a mechman 370 and it fixed the problem, runs like a champ. 

You're situation is completely different, not being able to run a HO alternator. Adding batteries could help, but also could damage the alternator because it wouldn't be able to keep up with charging the batteries. Along with newer and high end cars wanting to take control of every aspect of the vehicle, including charging, this could be a huge issue as well. 

My recommendation, as to not damage your nice, expensive car (those porsches are dope by the way!) Do a little research on the car audio shops around you and take it to one that has the best reputation you can. Chances are, they've dealt with this situation before, and can help you without guess work. It sucks, but it's true, anything can be fixed with enough knowledge and money. Taking it to a shop kind of sucks, I know, but I wouldn't chance it with a high end vehicle such as yours. 

That's my opinion anyway. Hope this helps

And sorry, just to add to what I said, (I was driving, thinking about what I wrote, trying to get to my destination so I could edit it lol) we do have a lot of professionals on this forum who know what they're doing, if someone on this forum has actually dealt with a water cooled 190 amp alternator on 4k+, and knows the remedy, I hope they respond. Just my opinion, of course, but I think throwing a bunch of batteries at it, or changing to lithium or whatever, could cause more problems than it fixes. And, I'm sure you know, fixing more problems on an expensive, high performance, luxury car, can be expensive as all hell! 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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