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On 11/14/2020 at 12:44 PM, JakeW said:

And I could be completely wrong, but from bottom up shouldnt it be the base, lug or fuse(whichever order u prefer), then nut tightened, stopping the lug from spinning? The black acorn nut is only to softly secure the cover? I actually put a nut securing my SCHA stud, then built fuse and lug on top of that, then secured those tightly. 

Sorry for any confusion, I edited my post to clear it up because when I refer to nuts spinning, I'm referring to the nuts on the backside of the fuse block, the nuts that are encased in glass. Not referring to the plexiglass cover or acorn nuts. Thanks for trying to help.

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39 minutes ago, JakeW said:

I cannot see the backside of the fuse holder from the single photo you submitted

I installed it without taking a photo and have dreaded disconnecting the wires in order to unscrew it from my enclosure but I did it (outside in 30 degree weather) just to share the photo with you of what I've been left with after one of the round glass things that are on the backside broke into a hundred pieces (not the plexiglass cover). I removed the stud after it broke to ensure I don't try using the useless stud (and have it never tighten by it continuously spinning). Thanks.

20201117_212207.jpg

20201117_212214.jpg

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Yea those never should’ve just crumbled like that. Maybe faulty adhesive glass epoxy whatever went into that filler. I don’t have experience with the SMD. but now that we are 100% on the same page, can you put bolt in, add fuses, add lugs, nut on top, without screwing the holder down secure, put a socket on bottom to hold nut and tighten through? Then secure the fuse block to wherever it needs to sit? The issue is still a broken block I get that, potentially faulty(hope you do contact the store bought from), but im just trying to get you to bass on. For future, as I stated, I bolted all my bolts tight to the block, then the lugs & fuses are tightened with another nut to secure them, to prevent any spinning I could’ve encountered 

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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1 hour ago, selfmotivated24 said:

Sorry for any confusion, I edited my post to clear it up because when I refer to nuts spinning, I'm referring to the nuts on the backside of the fuse block, the nuts that are encased in glass. Not referring to the plexiglass cover or acorn nuts. Thanks for trying to help.

Where the first confusion came from

was when you stated the nuts spinning, when those were the “heads on the bolts”

‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18.  Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. 

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8 minutes ago, JakeW said:

Maybe faulty adhesive glass epoxy whatever went into that filler. I don’t have experience with the SMD. but now that we are 100% on the same page, can you put bolt in, add fuses, add lugs, nut on top, without screwing the holder down secure, put a socket on bottom to hold nut and tighten through? Then secure the fuse block to wherever it needs to sit? The issue is still a broken block I get that, potentially faulty(hope you do contact the store bought from), but im

just trying to get you to bass on. 

I greatly appreciate it, I did find it does allow me to use a socket on the backside to hold the head of the stud (or stud's feet depending on perspective) so I can get by. I shared a video slooowly explaining the issue (6 mins) of the ANL fuses not fitting if interested in seeing it rather than just reading about it. I suggest watching it using 1.25x speed, haha, it was recorded at the end of a very long day. I'm good at finding workarounds so thanks again for your assistance, I'm good, just need to reach out to SMD and explain these two issues and see what they say because something is not right with SHCA lugs and fuses not fitting. If I find out SMD fuses will easily fit than I'll gladly make the switch. Bass-on.

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