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Hello hope everyone's healthy and still kicking ass. The question that brings me here today is givin the hkdays I can't afford an Xs battery or a pair as I've had a lead acid in my trunk for a while.

So at autozone you can get a massive 1000 CCA with 160 reserve for the same price as a small battery. How big should I go? Is it worthwhile getting the biggest one they have? Its $200 no matter which agm I take home. I have a couple amps pulling 300-350 amps a 10 farad stinger cap lots of sky-high 0 and 4 gage. What do you fine folks think will work best for me? Go big as possible since its the same cost?

Edited by Kasey51
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  • Kasey51 changed the title to Duralast agm

So, in car audio, what you're looking at as far as batteries go, is amp hours. Yes, they can get expensive. Cold cranking amps are just a measurement of (basically) how well your battery can start your car in very cold weather. 

What's your system consist of and what kind of vehicle is it? Depending on the size of the system, your stock electrical might be able to handle it just fine. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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I don't sit with my alt not spinning often if ever. I need more idk if its reserve or what my voltage needs to be steadier. I know a bigger cap will help but won't a bigger secondary as well? I'm having trouble deciding to get the huge h9 agm and making room for it or getting the standard group 34. Im not sure if cranking amps relate in any way how much power the batt can dump at once to sustain the voltage when the amps are pulling 300+ amps.

 And thanks BTW for any input. Im not too big a novice but for sure have a ton to learn

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Sorry I was driving n didn't read the entire post thoroughly. So I have a Rockford t1500 driving a couple skar vxf 12" at 1 ohm

Then a skv2 100.4 driving the mods and highs. I have a agm up front then sky-high 0 gauge to the POS lead acid in the rear. 4 gage to the amps of course. Also a 240 amp alt. The spec sheet puts it just under 260 at 3k rpm I've been listening to heavy bass stuff as of late but its a sq build that bumps pretty hard when I want it too.

So your saying the amount of cranking amps isn't reflective upon how well it can deliver amperage to the amps while the alt kicks in?

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Yeah dude, all cold cranking amps are is a measurement that battery companies use to measure how long you can crank a battery in cold, COLD weather while keeping the cells above a certain voltage. I think it's 1.67 or something like that. 

The more amp hours (AH) you have, the better for the extreme draw of an audio system. 

You're not really pulling an extreme amount of power. You've got a 240 amp alt, that's not bad. Not bad at all. Honestly, you should be fine with what you've got. Though, save up for a good AGM to replace the rear battery (which honestly, you don't even necessarily need, though when it comes to electrical, there's no such thing as too much). Something with a decent amount of amp hours. 80 at least. 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Before you upgrade that amp, I'd definitely upgrade those 2 batteries. Under the hood obviously needs to fit, but in the rear, you can go as big as you want. And, depending on how big you want to go, lithium might be something to start looking into for the future upgrades. 

Happy holidays to you too! 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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I'm running this one. Love it. 3yr unlimited for only $169

https://www.samsclub.com/p/auto-group-65agm-36-mo-free/prod9070062?xid=plp_product_1

 

However, IMPO, all batteries are over rated. No matter how you look at it, batteries are just for storage. What's WAY more important, is making plenty of juice to begin with, so you need to store very little. Id rather add another alternator... or six ;)

 

Edited by Fish Chris
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Thanks everyone for real.  So I ended up getting the duralast h7. It claims 90 ah but who knows. That and the 12 farad worth of capacitor n it takes alot more pull to get the lights a flickering. Before when it was only half way up at a light, in gear & ideling, voltage in the rear would drop to high 12s low 13s. Its much more stable now. I cant speak to the life of the cheap ass duralast agm batteries as there really isn't a whole lot of folks running them. N if they are they're probably too embarrassed to say lol. The only appealing thing about em is the group 24f for the front of my car is the same price as the straight massive, 95 lb, 120 ah group H9. I think that's alot of power for a couple hundo. With a warranty. The internal resistance might now be there or near as good as a xs battery but eh, its half priced. I am getting the 530 farad ultrcap from xs power with the stimulus if they ever pull their head out there asses or taxes. Its funny how I started out just wanting a little thump with my beats n now I've got a couple hundred just in wire and 4 different tuned boxes in my closet and a pile of mid n high speakers n amps n Yada freaking Yada. Damn straight an expensive but satisfying and fun habbit to add to my list of personal damage. Thanks to everyone who took a min and for crying out loud merry Christmas but, is it over yet?!?!?!?!

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