SuzukiGS750EZ Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Hey guys. I have a 2014 Nissan Altima, stock alternator and just bought a new Optima Yellowtop. I'm installing a SKAR Audio SKv2 100.4AB soon and already have a MMATS Audio 1400w amp with two MMATS 12's installed at 1 ohm. Speakers i'll be hooking up the skar to are 120w RMS each, for a total of 4, one on each channel. The car right now doesn't dim or anything with the subs, but i haven't ever installed an amp for my speakers. Opinions? I know I may not "know" until the install, but a ball park as to if i'll be fine or not would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 I think it should be ok. Only thing is, I know you just bought it, and you should be fine anyway, but Optima batteries aren't what they used to be. If you can save up to get a XS, or Full Throttle, or even a Northstar in the future, I would. Also, you can find them fairly inexpensive, but if you can snag a voltmeter for inside the car to monitor your voltage while slapping, that would be beneficial as well 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 I will. I was looking at xs, but I needed a battery that day about a month ago. I plan to eventually do the big 3, I did in my other car. But for now I just want to make sure I be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 You should be ok. But get that big 3 done ASAP 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 Just because you are not dimming on a newer vehicle doesn’t mean you don’t need quicker recharge and more reserve. You could be capping your current pull and your voltage could be dipping low. I had an old school mmats 1400 rms amp (dhc1400.2) that doesn’t pull as much current as the newer mmats 1400 rms amps on a factory alternator bigger than yours but my vehicle is older than yours and it’s battery system is simpler, I had a good battery, just as good as a yellow top, and no big 3 upgrade and I was dimming and dipping. My vehicle is a 1997 Ford Expedition and it use to have a 140 amp stock alternator. Newer vehicles handle dimming better. But hook up a voltmeter and you are gonna see that your voltage is dipping badly. Buy a voltmeter before you buy anything else so you can see what I’m talking about. Then you NEED an extra agm battery, at least an 80ah, and a big 3 upgrade. We all know car audio, but I’m a used car salesman too that knows cars and my boss has stocked newer Nissan Altimas too. Nissan Altimas are good cars. What size motor is on yours and what trim model? Then I can learn your vehicle better and it’s battery system and fluorescents. Your vehicle 100% has a battery current sensor which is the same a bms (battery management system) So your current draw is getting monitored and capped. Newer vehicles are equipped to not dim because they are more current pull efficient on fluorescents and electronics and that bms that monitors current draw caps it when needed so the vehicle is more electronically efficient. And even if your current pull is ok, most likely it isn’t, there is no way your voltage stability is ok. No way. So now that you know that, you need to bypass that battery current sensor so you can have a legit car audio system. Then you would notice dimming. And make sure you wire up with 1/0 gauge ofc wire. And if you have 4 gauge wire to the subwoofer amp, change that to 1/0 gauge ofc wire. 8 gauge ofc wire on that Skar amp. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 50 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said: Just because you are not dimming on a newer vehicle doesn’t mean you don’t need quicker recharge and more reserve. You could be capping your current pull and your voltage could be dipping low. I had an old school mmats 1400 rms amp (dhc1400.2) that doesn’t pull as much current as the newer mmats 1400 rms amps on a factory alternator bigger than yours but my vehicle is older than yours and it’s battery system is simpler, I had a good battery, just as good as a yellow top, and no big 3 upgrade and I was dimming and dipping. My vehicle is a 1997 Ford Expedition and it use to have a 140 amp stock alternator. Newer vehicles handle dimming better. But hook up a voltmeter and you are gonna see that your voltage is dipping badly. Buy a voltmeter before you buy anything else so you can see what I’m talking about. Then you NEED an extra agm battery, at least an 80ah, and a big 3 upgrade. We all know car audio, but I’m a used car salesman too that knows cars and my boss has stocked newer Nissan Altimas too. Nissan Altimas are good cars. What size motor is on yours and what trim model? Then I can learn your vehicle better and it’s battery system and fluorescents. Your vehicle 100% has a battery current sensor which is the same a bms (battery management system) So your current draw is getting monitored and capped. Newer vehicles are equipped to not dim because they are more current pull efficient on fluorescents and electronics and that bms that monitors current draw caps it when needed so the vehicle is more electronically efficient. And even if your current pull is ok, most likely it isn’t, there is no way your voltage stability is ok. No way. So now that you know that, you need to bypass that battery current sensor so you can have a legit car audio system. Then you would notice dimming. And make sure you wire up with 1/0 gauge ofc wire. And if you have 4 gauge wire to the subwoofer amp, change that to 1/0 gauge ofc wire. 8 gauge ofc wire on that Skar amp. I didn't even think about a battery management system🤦♂️ 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 23 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: I didn't even think about a battery management system🤦♂️ No worries. I use to not know or think about battery management systems either because I’ve never owned a vehicle with one. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted December 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 I understood most of that... where am i checking for voltage dip with the system running at full tilt, right at the battery? Also, what negative impact will disabling the BMS have on the car? My system is: 2014 Nissan Altima SV 2.5L MMATS DHC1400.1 Amp (i thought it was an m.... it's a DHC) MMATS Procast 12" (two) I will have wired everything up with 4 gauge Knu conceptz power/ground and their RCA's/remote as well as speaker wire Kenwood DNX995S Powerbass 2XL-63C front Powerbass 2XL-693 rear Brand new optima yellowtop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 Don’t disable the battery current sensor. Bypass it. I don’t know how to do that, but just research it and ask around to alternator companies. Alternator companies sell battery management bypass modules. Check for dipping at the amp. Just put the dmm prongs on the amps ground terminal and the positive feed terminal so you can see what voltage the amp is seeing, which would be lower than what the battery is seeing. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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