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Sundown Audio

Need amp suggestions


DizzleDizzle

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On 1/22/2021 at 12:45 PM, DizzleDizzle said:

sorry I forgot to bring my laptop to the shop yesterday. I would pass on the autotek for sure. 

 

I'd still go the jensen, they have done the dyno on them already and even though the name is blah in the industry they actually turn out good products. They have gone the way of commercial radios and such as opposed to car audio but they still obviously do that as well. I used to work with custom outfitted buses and the radios with PAs and everything were all Jensen, monitors and the like. I believe Dual was jensen as well hence why they look similar and as for quality I can not say anything negative about them. the PCBs were nice and thick and the quality of components were always really good, caps always were name brand and 105* rated which have a substantially greater life cycle over 85*. I do mess with rebuilding amps here and there so I have had my fair share of cheap amps to learn on that is why I say what I say. 

 

I'll look into your encloseure now.

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so each sub has its own chamber?

 

also reading in your thread, even flush mounting your subs it is still a double baffle, the subwoofer doesn't need to be screwed through both. I have ran into people saying no it's not, It is just common sense, once glued they become 1 and both would need to flex still which that is the whole point of a double (or more) baffle is to eliminate flex and to support heavy drivers but even extra support will be there just not with the screws. The subs you are using you are 100% fine doing a flush mount with the sub being secured to just one 3/4" layer.

 

With taking your dimensions, minus .75 on the width and divide by 2 and just calculating it by 1 chamber I am getting box tuning of 52Hz. If you used a 3" port instead I got 39Hz which is much closer to where you want to be. I like slot port personally.

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30 minutes ago, sICSoundz said:

so each sub has its own chamber?

 

also reading in your thread, even flush mounting your subs it is still a double baffle, the subwoofer doesn't need to be screwed through both. I have ran into people saying no it's not, It is just common sense, once glued they become 1 and both would need to flex still which that is the whole point of a double (or more) baffle is to eliminate flex and to support heavy drivers but even extra support will be there just not with the screws. The subs you are using you are 100% fine doing a flush mount with the sub being secured to just one 3/4" layer.

 

With taking your dimensions, minus .75 on the width and divide by 2 and just calculating it by 1 chamber I am getting box tuning of 52Hz. If you used a 3" port instead I got 39Hz which is much closer to where you want to be. I like slot port personally.

You are fkin dope bro. 

 

So the box design is supposed to be 49hz according to manufacturer so thats pretty close to what I figured.

I originally wanted to build a slot ported enclosure tuned to 32hz. Someone in that thread convinced me to run with manufacturers reccomended enclosure so I will definitely go back to designing a slot ported enclosure. This one it will be getting installed and used until the new one is finished.

I cant say this one was exactly a failure because I have the experience of one more enclosure under my belt now. Just wish i would have followed through on my original plans and saved some materials.

 

As for the jensen amp I was seriously considering it until reading reviews on it. Turns out you can only adjust the gain and other settings through Bluetooth which isn't an issue on other jensen amps but on this one in particular it causes some usability issues. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it just to mess around with and maybe it will end up part of my boombox build for the garage but I dont think I'll be running it in the car.

Honestly I'm thinking of saving up and going with an amp a little higher in quality now. No point in getting in a rush at this point plus my wife will be satisfied with just the bass, the mids and highs are more for my satisfaction lol.

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you used mdf right? Not out too much then. I use oak and birch and actually never used mdf lol. 

 

the app lets you set crossovers and eq. Actually set crossover by inputting a number for the frequency which is nice as long as it hits that number hahaha. but that is amazing for setting up and 4channel for a front stage.  

 

I like my big amps, My truck interiors I have a Sundown Sax-100.4v1 which is like 21" long with my twisted sounds 3.5k which is 24" long lol.

My car I have a CT Sounds AT7000.1d 31" long, and  a Crescendo C1100.4 at 23" long I believe. Just feels like you get something for your money haha.

 

I like to build slot port, subs up port back. I have done side port with 3 common walls and bottom ports with 1 common wall. 

 

How did you flare the pvc?

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On 1/22/2021 at 6:49 AM, sICSoundz said:

Get that jensen amp at walmart, built in DSP for $94, why not. Ws going to suggest audiopipe apmn 2000 but looks like you got that one taken care of.

What are your box specs including port size? I can run it on the calculator. 

 

You can always turn a amplifier down as it doesn't need to be ran at rated, It does not hurt to have the headroom. You can't however turn a amp up past it's ratings! haha.

Yo, did you just tell this dude to buy a Jensen amp from Walmart? Wtf?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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On 1/24/2021 at 6:43 PM, sICSoundz said:

you used mdf right? Not out too much then. I use oak and birch and actually never used mdf lol. 

 

the app lets you set crossovers and eq. Actually set crossover by inputting a number for the frequency which is nice as long as it hits that number hahaha. but that is amazing for setting up and 4channel for a front stage.  

 

I like my big amps, My truck interiors I have a Sundown Sax-100.4v1 which is like 21" long with my twisted sounds 3.5k which is 24" long lol.

My car I have a CT Sounds AT7000.1d 31" long, and  a Crescendo C1100.4 at 23" long I believe. Just feels like you get something for your money haha.

 

I like to build slot port, subs up port back. I have done side port with 3 common walls and bottom ports with 1 common wall. 

 

How did you flare the pvc?

Yes mdf I cant get birch locally only regular plywood. Mdf if still 50 bucks a sheet though paint costed me another 40 then there was wood glue and brad nails. Sandpaper and filler. Whatever else plus time invested. Not complaining I now have one more box build under my belt so its all good. Never a failure only a learning experience.

To flare the pvc I took one of those reusable 4" drain plugs and replaced the carriage bolt with a longer one so it would fit in a drill then tightened it in pvc and spun it over a heat source to get nice even flares. I tried different methods torch, heat gun, flaring over a bowl. In the end spinning it over electric heat element on stove gave me the best results. I burned a couple before I got it right and made like 10 flares I hated maybe another 5 that were ok. 

Havent started working on a new box design yet had to help a friend do a install on his car this week then started fiberglassing a amp rack to go in trunk today. Gotta help someone move tomorrow and need to be out of town friday. Gotta work over the weekend. I'll find a spare moment to come up with something eventually. 🤣

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