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2 e15 v3 d2 wired at 1 ohms enclosure and amp


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https://ibb.co/Lr1BkjG
ripped box specs from sundown site for the 15 inch e and sa subs. rebuilt the specs on 2 mdf boards and wondering if this would be most efficient layout. but what would this mean the box would be tuned at? i want the lows, and i have a few songs hitting 28 hz. 

previously had an e 15 in a cheap random box about 3 cubic ft with 3 inch aeroport, and it was actually very solid. wired to 1 ohm on a jbl gto 751 ez and would only ever clip on the bass i love you tester on youtube on the lowest hz note. 

now im looking at getting a hifonics bxx2000.1d brutus, or sundown sfb-1500d amp to run both subs. Would they be enough, being that i couldnt see what hifonics is rated at? or too much, as i seen the dyno test for the e15v3 holding 5k watts, but not sure if the 2200 output at 1 ohm from the 1500d would be too much as a daily on both subs? i want maximum power without having to worry about overpowering the amp, or subs and having to adjust gains or eq just to get the extra bass. 

i figure no matter what i would have to get a higher power alt than stock on any vehicle, and this is going to be a build for a future vehicle of which i have not figured out yet. but would simply placing an extra battery in the back and not running at max power all day be enough to stave off having to get a higher than factory alternator? i think i seen the 1500d peak at 110 amps? so is that what i am going to have to give headroom for in terms of power supply from alt to battery IN ADDITION to whats already being pulled by the car?

Sorry for so many questions, i am new to this but always trying to learn and definitely am getting confused with all the differences in what information people give out on the internet. Also I know I should be figuring all this out myself, but at this point im overwhelmed and just want to get going on this system. if anybody can simply help that has the knowledge of this it would be greatly appreciated. thanks

WHAT I WILL BE RUNNING
the ripped box design with 2 e15 v3d2 wired to 1 ohm each from a monoblock amp using both sets of terminals using max wire size and will look for 0 gauge wiring kit. would prefer extra battery in back to save front battery if possible. Want max power and box tuned to 30ish hertz. lowest note i think i want to play is 28 so if 32 would be best solid tune then so be it. if i can put a simple corner slab into the box where the ports are to make the tune or shorten any dimensions/extend them i would do so. 

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just watched something else. does that mean with a monoblock, dual 2 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm in seperate terminals, that will knock it to a .5 ohm load on the amp? if this question is answered on its own that will change everything.

this being said, if i can wire both subs to run at 2 ohms from the amp instead of the .5 for lack of an amp that can run it, then if i get something like this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hifonics-ZG-2400-1D-Zeus-Gamma-ZG-Series-2-400-Watt-Max-Monoblock-Class-D-Amp/518405841?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0
am i expecting to get 1200 watts max per sub, or only a full total wattage of 1200 on both? it says 2400 wat max but 1200 at 2 ohm for the 1 channel. it does not list that you get 2400 wat at 1 ohm stable or that the amp is capable of that, so why even specify it can do 2400 watts? that is just another thing confusing me is how amps descriptions are made. 

if somebody can just tell me the best amp to get the most actual power to these subs that they can handle for the box and tuneage then i would be happy with that. i dont just want a yeah, that can run it and so can this. 

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looking at my previous box design since i was only doubling the rip from the sundown site, its not practical as i was looking at getting a honda odyssey for the storage space but reliability as well as back space with seats down, and its only 48 inches wide. i probably wont mind building it entirely that long but then messing with the height design to keep it compact but say instead of 18 inches tall it will be 20. 5 inches from the width wont be as much as i can add up and down for total cubic foot, but will have to figure out interior walls. at this point just point me in the direction of the amp and ill take care of the rest

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What kind of car are you putting this in? Do you know your stock alternator output? 

If you have each sub wired down to 1 ohm each, and you're planning on running .5 ohm off the amplifier, I wouldn't recommend either of those amps personally. The Hifonics is cheap and won't be able to handle .5. It'll just blow the amp and void the warranty eventually. You'd have to ask someone who is familiar with the Sundown full bridge amps to see if those can handle .5 ohm. I've heard you shouldn't run full bridge amps that low, but Sundown is a reputable company, so maybe that amp can handle it. 

Electrical, if you can get a bigger alt, I would say do it, if not, get a high amp hour AGM that will fit under the hood and probably another to go by the amp. And big 3 or 4 with 1/0 OFC is a must

And factory specs for subs have always been meh in my opinion. I would have someone specifically design your box to fit in your space for the exact subs and power you're going to give them 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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On 1/24/2021 at 6:44 PM, Dafaseles said:

What kind of car are you putting this in? Do you know your stock alternator output? 

If you have each sub wired down to 1 ohm each, and you're planning on running .5 ohm off the amplifier, I wouldn't recommend either of those amps personally. The Hifonics is cheap and won't be able to handle .5. It'll just blow the amp and void the warranty eventually. You'd have to ask someone who is familiar with the Sundown full bridge amps to see if those can handle .5 ohm. I've heard you shouldn't run full bridge amps that low, but Sundown is a reputable company, so maybe that amp can handle it. 

Electrical, if you can get a bigger alt, I would say do it, if not, get a high amp hour AGM that will fit under the hood and probably another to go by the amp. And big 3 or 4 with 1/0 OFC is a must

And factory specs for subs have always been meh in my opinion. I would have someone specifically design your box to fit in your space for the exact subs and power you're going to give them 


awesome thanks for the response, but to be honest at this point i will look at wiring them to two ohms if possible, but getting something that will output more power at 2 ohms.

would i need a dual channel amp or would i be okay to use a single channel dual terminal amp and actually get a 2 ohm load on it? this guys information seems contrary to what ive read.
 

 

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2 minutes ago, Liljxthexripper said:


awesome thanks for the response, but to be honest at this point i will look at wiring them to two ohms if possible, but getting something that will output more power at 2 ohms.

would i need a dual channel amp or would i be okay to use a single channel dual terminal amp and actually get a 2 ohm load on it? this guys information seems contrary to what ive read.
 

 

You could use a single channel. You don't need a 2 channel. Running them at 2 ohm is what I'd do personally. There are some amps out there that can easily handle .5 though. You mentioned 2 different subs in your original post. What subs are you running? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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4 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

You could use a single channel. You don't need a 2 channel. Running them at 2 ohm is what I'd do personally. There are some amps out there that can easily handle .5 though. You mentioned 2 different subs in your original post. What subs are you running? 


just the 2 sundown e15v3  2 ohm dvc. 

thanks again, that reassures me a lot and so i have some looking to do. but now to weed out the ones playing up crap and the ones who are telling it true. what brand amp would you recommend? because i see this is 2000 watts peak but makes me feel like if im playing super bass its going to go pretty quickly. im really looking at giving the subs about 1k watts a piece to have at their discretion. my songs are of course about 60-70 percent bass constant with quite a few dropping to 27 herts reverbing

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockville-dB12-2000-Watt-Peak-500w-CEA-rated-RMS-Mono-2-Ohm-Amplifier-Car-Amp/391886968709?epid=9031082385&hash=item5b3e489785:g:dK0AAOSwMmVfn8qd

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1 hour ago, Liljxthexripper said:


just the 2 sundown e15v3  2 ohm dvc. 

thanks again, that reassures me a lot and so i have some looking to do. but now to weed out the ones playing up crap and the ones who are telling it true. what brand amp would you recommend? because i see this is 2000 watts peak but makes me feel like if im playing super bass its going to go pretty quickly. im really looking at giving the subs about 1k watts a piece to have at their discretion. my songs are of course about 60-70 percent bass constant with quite a few dropping to 27 herts reverbing

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockville-dB12-2000-Watt-Peak-500w-CEA-rated-RMS-Mono-2-Ohm-Amplifier-Car-Amp/391886968709?epid=9031082385&hash=item5b3e489785:g:dK0AAOSwMmVfn8qd

Rockville is currently being sued for giving out false information regarding output, RMS, and power handling, so that one is a no from me dog. 

Reputable companies are basically the ones you already know. DC, Sundown, Cresendo, B2, Incriminator, Audio Control, Crossfire, C.A.B, Alphard/Deaf Bonce, U.S Acoustics, J.L Audio (if you don't mind running 2 amps), Rockford Fosgate, Memphis Audio.... just to name some. All these brands vary in build quality and price, but I wouldn't be scared to run these brands myself or, some of the cheaper brands, put in one of my friends cars that where on a budget. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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