Ruby Posted February 9, 2021 Report Share Posted February 9, 2021 Hey, I'm pretty new to car audio. I used to have a 1999 Toyota Camry. I had 2 Kicker CompC 12's on a JBL 1500 (don't remember model) and that was about it. I didn't have a capacitor, and I didn't upgrade my alternator or battery, and my lights would just about shut off when the bass hit. I would like to do something to my new daily, a 2008 Toyota Corolla, something that would give me decent bass, without upgrading the alternator or battery. I don't want to run a capacitor since I've been hearing a lot of mixed reviews about them. I've been looking at a Skar Audio 12 kit on amazon, but I would also like to upgrade my door speakers when I get the sub. I have a Pioneer AVH120BT head unit, it was only $120 at Walmart and I was on a budget when I got it, and kind of still am. I don't want to spend more than $600 on a sub, amp, install kit, and door speakers. I just want to know what I should do. Obviously it's ultimately my choice, but I don't know all to much and have a basic understanding of everything. What would a good sub and amp set up be, for a stock Corolla? I want to be able to play music, loud, for at least 2 hours, since it takes me about an hour to get to, and from work. I also drive quite a bit on the weekends. I can easily do the big 3, I've heard that 4 is kind of pointless unless you upgrade your alternator. I know that my head unit is capable of 50rms a line, up to 4. If I was to just use my door speakers, and not my rear deck speakers, could I splice the 2 door speakers into the 4 lines from the head unit, to get 100rms to each speakers, or would that not work. I can piece a system together myself, but I would most likely end up getting consultation from someone, before I bought the setup. I previously was going to go with 2 Kicker CompR 12's with a CX1200.1 amp, but realized that 1000rms would likely be too much for my Corolla's alternator, and I'd end up having to replace the alternator and battery within a few months. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and any info along with or separate, would be more than welcomed. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 9, 2021 Report Share Posted February 9, 2021 $600 is tough. Shop used on Ebay or Facebook marketplace or something. Buy a brand you've heard of. If you're not 100% sure, ask the forum before you buy it. You should be fine staying under the 300 watt mark. You can buy a decent, low wattage set of coaxils for $30 or so. I think I saw Skar or cresendo... can't exactly remember. Don't splice the wires. You'd be sending different signals to the same speaker. But staying low wattage from your sub, you should be fine with a decent set of coaxils. If you can swing buying the rear speakers, I would. But if you really want my advice, save up and you can put a decent, loud, good sounding system in your car, and do it right for under $3000. It's worth saving up for. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruby Posted February 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 Well, I found a Skar Audio package on amazon with a 12” SDR sub in a loaded ported enclosure, RP 800.1D (comes with bass control knob), and Skar audio 4 Gauge install kit. People say that the install kit isn’t actually 4 Gauge, but closer to 8. I’m also probably going to get a set of Pioneer TS-A1676S 6.5” and a set of TS-A6960F 6”x9” speakers. Aswell as 10sqft of 80mil sound deadening for my doors. Only question I have is, if my amp under powers my speakers and sub, is that a good thing? I would imagine the speakers and sub not performing at or above max power would be the way to go, for durability, but I’m new to this. Also, if the amp under powers the sub, wouldn’t the amp heat up faster and have a higher chance of over heating? I had a 1500w amp connected to two 300w rms subs, because I planned on upgrading to better subs but never did, and my amp was almost cool to the touch after 2 hours of straight bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 11, 2021 Report Share Posted February 11, 2021 The amp is going to put out whatever power it's going to put out and the sub is going to do what it's told. Under powering a sub isn't going to hurt anything, just make sure you set your gains properly. It doesn't matter how much below RMS you are, if your gains aren't set correctly, you'll ruin the sub sooner or later. And if that 4 awg is really 8 awg, and that ends up not being able to give the amp the electrical it needs, then the amp could start to overheat because it could start to try and work too hard. But, without actually seeing the wire, I think you'd be ok. Just something to pay attention too. And make sure your ground is a good one. I don't remember if you did the big 3 or the big 4 upgrade, but if you didn't, that's important as well. One thing is troubling about your post. You said Only question I have is, if my amp under powers my speakers and sub, You're not hooking up the speakers and the sub to that 800.1 are you? Just the sub right? 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruby Posted February 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 No, I'm not. I meant head unit under powering the speakers and the 800.1 under powering the sub. The head unit is rated for 200.4 so 50rms per speaker and all the speakers are 120rms. Skar says that the 800.1 is perfect for the 12" SDR 1200w (600rms). Edit: Sorry for the late replies, I work 7-5 and basically relax the rest of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted February 20, 2021 Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 Your good. Under powering isn't going to hurt anything 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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