JakeW Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 I’d say now you know not to look on Walmart.com, eBay has reputable dealers, Amazon and any Google search. I bought my 2 smart 3 from big Jeff online, they hooked me up with my lithium battery as well ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony10111 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 27 minutes ago, JakeW said: Different dealers are gonna have it priced differently, just the same as you’d see other products. Do ALL of the amps come with that monitor? Could that be the reason of the price difference?It not including the monitor? You may not know, and that's okay, I'm just trying to figure it all out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 1 minute ago, Anthony10111 said: Do ALL of the amps come with that monitor? Could that be the reason of the price difference?It not including the monitor? You may not know, and that's okay, I'm just trying to figure it all out All smart 3s do yes. You’re over thinking the price. A smart 3 shouldn’t be any more than 305ish. Search eBay. Look for brand new, probably 290 shipped ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeW Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 Ships from California! Seller has a 97% rating. ‘16 ram. Net Audio. Taramps. JL. DS18. Fox Acoustics. XS Power. 226.08” of DC Audio blue carbon fiber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 And dude, that 3.5 farad capacitor isn’t doing anything. Capacitance doesn’t help unless it’s around 50-75 farads or more. Most people use banks of them, 500 farads or more. And even if you had enough farads to make capacitance worth while and actually do something, you would need the battery reserve to feed the current draw the amp wants. You are gonna need another battery and a good alternator to be happy with a smart 3. You could get away with a couple of agm batteries, a stock alter tor and a big 3 though. Look, let me explain, when it comes to what I’m talking about, batteries are there to feed the amp what the alternator can’t and then caps are there to store energy to charge and discharge quickly to feed your amp. But if you don’t have enough alternator or battery reserve to make that energy, then capacitors are pointless unless you have a big bank of caps. I understand you want to bump. But you have to get your electrical setup correct first. That is the most important part of any car audio setup. If you are under feeding an amplifier, it gets hot and sends clipped signals, thus making your subwoofer’s coils get hot and smelly and on the verge of being burnt out. I didn’t even see if anybody asked you or if you even said what type of vehicle this or what’s the vehicles electrical setup. This is the first thing that needs to get tend to and then buy a smart 3. But before you hook up a smart 3, you need to make sure your electrical setup in your vehicle is up to par or even if you tune your amp correctly, on some other notes, your are gonna begin to clip and damage your gear. Taramps can’t be clipped too much or it damages them. Subwoofers in general can’t be clipped too much or it damages them. You could tune your car audio setup where on full tilt or whatever clean output level your head unit allows and your amp doesn’t clip on any frequencies. But when that alternator heats up and voltage begins to dip with them frequency’s current pull, then your are gonna see that clip indicator flash like fugh. Long story short dude, you need to beef up your vehicle’s electrical setup. Because I’m pretty sure it’s stock with probably a big 3 upgrade or something minimal judging by the gear you invested in. Don’t think I’m coming at you wrong or anything, I just want you to be happy and experience that feeling of good bass and it bothers me that you aren’t experiencing that. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony10111 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 I want to get a smart 3 and not push the full 3000rms to my subs.. I want to keep the gain lower and push about 2000? for now.... That way I cant clip? And I've got basic 4 gauge big 3 in right now (It made a great difference from stock) but once I start working again I'm upgrading that to 1/0 off. And I'm getting an extra battery very soon when I get that smart 3 . Then a new alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 1 hour ago, 1point21gigawatts said: And dude, that 3.5 farad capacitor isn’t doing anything. Capacitance doesn’t help unless it’s around 50-75 farads or more. Most people use banks of them, 500 farads or more. And even if you had enough farads to make capacitance worth while and actually do something, you would need the battery reserve to feed the current draw the amp wants. You are gonna need another battery and a good alternator to be happy with a smart 3. You could get away with a couple of agm batteries, a stock alter tor and a big 3 though. Look, let me explain, when it comes to what I’m talking about, batteries are there to feed the amp what the alternator can’t and then caps are there to store energy to charge and discharge quickly to feed your amp. But if you don’t have enough alternator or battery reserve to make that energy, then capacitors are pointless unless you have a big bank of caps. I understand you want to bump. But you have to get your electrical setup correct first. That is the most important part of any car audio setup. If you are under feeding an amplifier, it gets hot and sends clipped signals, thus making your subwoofer’s coils get hot and smelly and on the verge of being burnt out. I didn’t even see if anybody asked you or if you even said what type of vehicle this or what’s the vehicles electrical setup. This is the first thing that needs to get tend to and then buy a smart 3. But before you hook up a smart 3, you need to make sure your electrical setup in your vehicle is up to par or even if you tune your amp correctly, on some other notes, your are gonna begin to clip and damage your gear. Taramps can’t be clipped too much or it damages them. Subwoofers in general can’t be clipped too much or it damages them. You could tune your car audio setup where on full tilt or whatever clean output level your head unit allows and your amp doesn’t clip on any frequencies. But when that alternator heats up and voltage begins to dip with them frequency’s current pull, then your are gonna see that clip indicator flash like fugh. Long story short dude, you need to beef up your vehicle’s electrical setup. Because I’m pretty sure it’s stock with probably a big 3 upgrade or something minimal judging by the gear you invested in. Don’t think I’m coming at you wrong or anything, I just want you to be happy and experience that feeling of good bass and it bothers me that you aren’t experiencing that. This is 100% true. Got caught up in taking about the amp and forgot to make sure you can feed the beast. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 And another thing, do you think that a $160-$180 amp is doing 2000 rms? Fugh no. Do you think an amp with 3 40 amp fuses is doing 2000 rms? Fugh no. Plus you have to factor in the inefficiency of the amp too, which decreases the rms even more. And factor in the impedance rise. So forget about 1700 rms at 2 ohms. That amp can’t even support or do 1700 rms at 1 ohm. Does about 1100 rms at 1 ohm on good voltage, which you don’t have. So wired at 2 ohms, does about 600-700 rms on good voltage. Factor in the impedance rise on 2 ohms and voltage drop, you are doing about 350-400 rms, maybe a tad more, to both of them subwoofers. Add a couple agm batteries and buy a taramps smart 3 or a Skar rp3500 and bass on. Peace out dude and much love. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1point21gigawatts Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Anthony10111 said: I want to get a smart 3 and not push the full 3000rms to my subs.. I want to keep the gain lower and push about 2000? for now.... That way I cant clip? And I've got basic 4 gauge big 3 in right now (It made a great difference from stock) but once I start working again I'm upgrading that to 1/0 off. And I'm getting an extra battery very soon when I get that smart 3 . Then a new alternator. My bad. I didn’t see you replied. That’s a good idea. Instead of doing a couple agm batteries. Just do one and an alternator. I thought a couple agm batteries would be easier for you and then you could do an alternator later on once you got into the groove of car audio. Make sure you get a good alternator. Not a crappy cheap one that isn’t as good as a oem alternator even if it says it does twice the amps, the cheap ones aren’t better than oem. Buy an alternator from a good company. Make sure before you do so to get on this forum and talk to us first so you don’t make a bad purchase. Buy the biggest alternator you can afford from JS alternators or brand x or mechman or singer or dc or somebody like that. It’s late, so I can’t think of more quick like that. And you don’t have to dial back on the amps gain. Them subwoofers can handle a smart 3. Easy. No problem. Just watch the clip monitor and have a bass knob. I’m saying this to protect your amp. Because taramps don’t like to clip too much. Yeah, you can clip them amps with no problems. But all it takes is that one volume level, that one dip, that one clip, that one frequency and that amp could give out since your electrical isn’t up to par. You’ll learn to steer away from clipping and you can turn back on the gain a bit if voltage is dipping too much and clipping too much. You’ll find a happy medium until you get your electrical setup in your vehicle up to par. “How can we help you?” “And don’t forget to tell them that the customer isn’t always right.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony10111 Posted March 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 On 3/3/2021 at 10:41 PM, JakeW said: Ships from California! Seller has a 97% rating. Hey I was wondering about the fuse rating on these smart 3s... Do I need a 150 amp fuse or a 300 amp fuse? Would you happen to know? I'm asking you bcuz you're who suggested this amp to me lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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