Skar audio evl 12 2500w

[GixsirJB1k]

I hope I can get some help and advice by someone please. Let me start with what my problem is and that is for what setup I have I was told and believed that I would be knocking hella better then I am when I can't even be heard coming down the road a couple blocks away which I was hoping that I would be able to hear me before I got in the driveway atleast 2 blocks away if not even more and thought it would make your nose itch and shake the rearview mirror off i thought but it barely even shakes it at all. I have two of the skar evl 12s that are dual 4 ohm in a ported box that has a slot port that is 25" long by 2" high and 3" deep in the box and it's located at the bottom front of the box which is located in the back of the cab of my 06 dodge mega cab behind the rear seats and also has the storage bin removed to ha e more space the box is 3/4" mdf and it's been sealed and screwed tight then it's also been Bondo over all the seams and then primer and paint and 2k clear coat 3 coats if it. It's running of the skar rp 2000.1 amp it's all wired with 0 gauge ofc wire for POS and NEG that is also hooked up to a 6 farad boss capacitor and also have another amp that is a kicker 500x4 that's pusing the front door skar 6x9s and the rear door skar 6.5 components that also have the skar 1" component tweeter that is all aluminum that is mounted in a fiberglass door pod in the rear doors that was custom built and the head unit is the Kenwood dmx7706s that also has the ska7EQ by skar and a Soundstream bx-12 digital bass machine hooked up and I took the truck to a local audio shop and asked then do I need a bigger alternator and they looked at mine and said for what I am going to have all running that I wouldn't need a bigger one that mine is a 178 amp I think they said it's the factory one in the 06 dodge ram 2500 slt mega cab 4x4 with the 5.7 hemi so I didn't get a bigger one but I have installed all new 0 gauge wire from my battery to the alternator both POS and NEG and from the starter as well which I believe is what they call the big3 I'm not sure but can anyone please help me and give me some advice and or even possibly know anyone that is down to fix it all for me I'll pay not a problem I am already out 750 bucks from the first so called professional car audio tech that was supposed to do it all and build a custom box and install everything and I ended up getting a ok built box but personally think the port in not done right and should not have been at the bottom of the box and should have been along the entire top of the box instead but the guy said it's perfect the port will be lined up with the bottom of the rear seats and that is not how it is now it's directly at the rear seat and is only like 3" or 4" away at that the box goes from the white driver's side of the rear cab inside to the passenger side but has 4" of space left on each end and the booton of the box is I think 17" and the tip is 3" but it follows the contour of the rear of the cab and is not a exactly wedge shape it's got a space that contours a 1-¹/2" by 9" section that is cut out of the top rear of the box and the front is a str8 angle from the tip to the bottom where it then stops and makes the 90% angle str8 down to the bottom of the Bock so it's got a total of 7 pieces and the 2 ends if that makes sense if I can upload pictures on here I will add some to help give the idea because I'm sure I'm making it sound crazy but please someone I need help and want to start knocking and shaking shit and actually be heard coming down the road and not only when I'm pulling up that's insane I know I should be hitting way better for what I got and I know that I will eventually need to add another amp like I got to have one running on it's own sub but at the moment the amo I have I know is well underrated and actually provides way more then it's rms and the subs I have are 1250 rms and can take that easy please help also I'm going to be getting a different amp to run the kids and highs which I was looking at the skar 1500 qmo can't remember the middle but it's the one step down from the rp models and should be enough to power the mids and highs I'll be waiting to hear back also in located in Monterey California and willing to travel a few hours away if need be to get it done right which I was really wanting to have my system done by Steve mead design and hopefully start advertising from him when I get it done and ha e the truck at the SEMA convention once it's completely finished building it this is the space I had to work with and the box goes from the end of the grey carpet by seat all the way to rear of the cab and end to end and up to the bottom of rear windowThis is just an idea of what I was thinking of but with just two subs and the amps mounted on top rather then the 6x9s

20200920_122241.heic 20201011_133221.heic 20201022_150816.heic 20201020_183649.heic

[Dafaseles]

That's a lot....

Well, there could be many different reasons why you're not getting the output you want.

How many cubic feet of airspace do you have inside the box? 

What is your box tuned to? If it's tuned too high, or too low, that can hinder output. 

How did you set your gain on your amp? If the gain isn't set right, you'll never get the output you want. 

What are your crossover settings on the amp? If your subsonic and low pass filter (LPF) isn't set correctly, you could be cutting off frequencies you need. 

How many amps is your aftermarket alternator? And what brand is it? 

I see the cap (which you should ditch to be honest) but what battery are you running? 1 or 2?

The big 3 is upgrading your positive cable from your alternator to your battery. Then battery negative to the frame or chassis (depending on where your amplifiers are grounded) and then from battery negative to the engine block/ alternator. Not your starter. So you could have bottlenecks in your electrical, causing voltage drops. 

My buddy has a mega cab, behind the backseat he has a single JL W7 in a 2 cubic foot box (net). There is a lot of space back there, so building a box big enough should be doable. He has his single 12 firing sideways toward the drivers side, along with the port firing the same direction. No, you can't hear him blocks away (which is kind of impossible unless you have way more subs and power) but you can definitely hear him pull up. 

[Joe X]

3 hours ago, GixsirJB1k said:

I hope I can get some help and advice by someone please. Let me start with what my problem is and that is for what setup I have I was told and believed that I would be knocking hella better then I am when I can't even be heard coming down the road a couple blocks away which I was hoping that I would be able to hear me before I got in the driveway atleast 2 blocks away if not even more and thought it would make your nose itch and shake the rearview mirror off i thought but it barely even shakes it at all. I have two of the skar evl 12s that are dual 4 ohm in a ported box that has a slot port that is 25" long by 2" high and 3" deep in the box and it's located at the bottom front of the box which is located in the back of the cab of my 06 dodge mega cab behind the rear seats and also has the storage bin removed to ha e more space the box is 3/4" mdf and it's been sealed and screwed tight then it's also been Bondo over all the seams and then primer and paint and 2k clear coat 3 coats if it. It's running of the skar rp 2000.1 amp it's all wired with 0 gauge ofc wire for POS and NEG that is also hooked up to a 6 farad boss capacitor and also have another amp that is a kicker 500x4 that's pusing the front door skar 6x9s and the rear door skar 6.5 components that also have the skar 1" component tweeter that is all aluminum that is mounted in a fiberglass door pod in the rear doors that was custom built and the head unit is the Kenwood dmx7706s that also has the ska7EQ by skar and a Soundstream bx-12 digital bass machine hooked up and I took the truck to a local audio shop and asked then do I need a bigger alternator and they looked at mine and said for what I am going to have all running that I wouldn't need a bigger one that mine is a 178 amp I think they said it's the factory one in the 06 dodge ram 2500 slt mega cab 4x4 with the 5.7 hemi so I didn't get a bigger one but I have installed all new 0 gauge wire from my battery to the alternator both POS and NEG and from the starter as well which I believe is what they call the big3 I'm not sure but can anyone please help me and give me some advice and or even possibly know anyone that is down to fix it all for me I'll pay not a problem I am already out 750 bucks from the first so called professional car audio tech that was supposed to do it all and build a custom box and install everything and I ended up getting a ok built box but personally think the port in not done right and should not have been at the bottom of the box and should have been along the entire top of the box instead but the guy said it's perfect the port will be lined up with the bottom of the rear seats and that is not how it is now it's directly at the rear seat and is only like 3" or 4" away at that the box goes from the white driver's side of the rear cab inside to the passenger side but has 4" of space left on each end and the booton of the box is I think 17" and the tip is 3" but it follows the contour of the rear of the cab and is not a exactly wedge shape it's got a space that contours a 1-¹/2" by 9" section that is cut out of the top rear of the box and the front is a str8 angle from the tip to the bottom where it then stops and makes the 90% angle str8 down to the bottom of the Bock so it's got a total of 7 pieces and the 2 ends if that makes sense if I can upload pictures on here I will add some to help give the idea because I'm sure I'm making it sound crazy but please someone I need help and want to start knocking and shaking shit and actually be heard coming down the road and not only when I'm pulling up that's insane I know I should be hitting way better for what I got and I know that I will eventually need to add another amp like I got to have one running on it's own sub but at the moment the amo I have I know is well underrated and actually provides way more then it's rms and the subs I have are 1250 rms and can take that easy please help also I'm going to be getting a different amp to run the kids and highs which I was looking at the skar 1500 qmo can't remember the middle but it's the one step down from the rp models and should be enough to power the mids and highs I'll be waiting to hear back also in located in Monterey California and willing to travel a few hours away if need be to get it done right which I was really wanting to have my system done by Steve mead design and hopefully start advertising from him when I get it done and ha e the truck at the SEMA convention once it's completely finished building it this is the space I had to work with and the box goes from the end of the grey carpet by seat all the way to rear of the cab and end to end and up to the bottom of rear windowThis is just an idea of what I was thinking of but with just two subs and the amps mounted on top rather then the 6x9s

 

 

20200920_122241.heic 1.28 MB · 1 download 20201011_133221.heic 2.64 MB · 1 download 20201022_150816.heic 1.34 MB · 0 downloads 20201020_183649.heic 1.2 MB · 0 downloads

 

 

That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too.

 

Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.

[Dafaseles]

33 minutes ago, Joe X said:

 

 

That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too.

 

Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.

I was thinking the same thing about the port, but I don't know a much about box design. I didn't want to say anything about it and be wrong lol

[GixsirJB1k]

On 2/3/2022 at 8:30 PM, Joe X said:

 

 

That port is a joke as you describe it, you should list your full box design and pics of everything, your subs are kind of entry level too.

 

Also relax a bit please, one thing at a time. and a lot of pics.

Joe X I appreciate the none help you have me rather then just putting your 2 cents in and be helpful rather then bash me I'd appreciate it an for as the subs go not sure how you figure they are entry level subs when they are rms 1500 and peak 2500 each sub not to mention they are competition spl subs that are better then most subs yo uh can get far as your everyday audio store or what not like in referring to like punch and kicker an jbl or boss and alpine even Kenwood and some of the sundown also being that they are pretty much a better cheaper version of the sundown audio and then size of these subs are not your average subs being they need a mounting depth of 7.75 inch's that's just inside the box so please help me understand your comment and as I already said in the post that the port on my box is junk so not sure why your just commenting and saying the same thing I already said when I'm asking for help and ideas not some ² cents worth of not helpful advice that's for sure and if that's what your wanting to comment then just don't bother please. I'm serious and asking for some professional advice and help if anyone can help I'd appreciate it very much. I'm would really like to get some advice from the actual man around her mr Steve mead himself that would be great not to mention I'd like to speak to him about possible work I'm looking to get done and really want Steve mead design to be the man that builds my stuff I'm wanting done, so Steve mead design is f you read this please get back to me and let's get together and figure out some ideas and talk prices and build time please thank you

[CorNut]

Joe X is one of your best bets for help with an enclosure. The way you type without periods/commas makes your post come across as a rant, that's all. You definitely don't have adequate port area though, he's just more brutally honest than most! I'm not a box designer like him, whoever designed your box gives designers a bad name with its 6" of port area.

[Joe X]

On 2/23/2022 at 5:15 PM, GixsirJB1k said:

Joe X I appreciate the none help you have me rather then just putting your 2 cents in and be helpful rather then bash me I'd appreciate it an for as the subs go not sure how you figure they are entry level subs when they are rms 1500 and peak 2500 each sub not to mention they are competition spl subs that are better then most subs yo uh can get far as your everyday audio store or what not like in referring to like punch and kicker an jbl or boss and alpine even Kenwood and some of the sundown also being that they are pretty much a better cheaper version of the sundown audio and then size of these subs are not your average subs being they need a mounting depth of 7.75 inch's that's just inside the box so please help me understand your comment and as I already said in the post that the port on my box is junk so not sure why your just commenting and saying the same thing I already said when I'm asking for help and ideas not some ² cents worth of not helpful advice that's for sure and if that's what your wanting to comment then just don't bother please. I'm serious and asking for some professional advice and help if anyone can help I'd appreciate it very much. I'm would really like to get some advice from the actual man around her mr Steve mead himself that would be great not to mention I'd like to speak to him about possible work I'm looking to get done and really want Steve mead design to be the man that builds my stuff I'm wanting done, so Steve mead design is f you read this please get back to me and let's get together and figure out some ideas and talk prices and build time please thank you

 

 

Here are my 2 cents,  take the time to answer at least some of the questions we asked you if you seriously are looking for help.

 

 

[Fin3ssed]

On 3/27/2021 at 2:45 AM, Dafaseles said:

First, those are not 2500 watt subs. They are 1250 watt subs. Tuned correctly and in the correct enclosure, you could put 1500-1700 watts to them and be fine.

What amp are you running? Any upgrades to your electrical system? Do you have the dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm? Do you know the specs of your enclosure? What kind of vehicle are they in? 

You can actually feed them 3k rms from a taramps smart 3k and the evl will take it all day. 

[Dafaseles]

1 hour ago, Fin3ssed said:

You can actually feed them 3k rms from a taramps smart 3k and the evl will take it all day. 

Done in the right conditions, right enclosure, electrical all the way correct, gains and crossovers set perfectly.... maybe. But I'm not going to give someone the advice to throw that kind of power at it because if they end up blowing the sub because of over powering it, I'm not going to warrantee that shit🤣

[Ron36]

I ran 3 Sundown SA-10’s rated at 600RMS at 3K but my electrical was good 260AMP ALT and 6 batteries, Subs took it for 5 years never any issues, Subs still pounding now my buddy has them , It’s all about your electrical only about a third of the people on here understand that clean power won’t blow your subs. When your voltage goes down current goes up and current causes heat and distortion which makes subs and Amps smoke. That’s the number 1 thing to know for all electrical.