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If it's anything like the RVC on the Chevrolet's, you'd wire 1/0 from the battery, through the ring and ground that to the engine block, then also ground the battery to the alternator. It doesn't really act right if you ground anything directly to the frame. Though this might be different on Fords. I'm going to do some digging when I get the chance. 

A couple of other questions that might change the wiring setup....

Are you only running 1 battery? 

AGM or lithium? 

What kind of audio setup are you running? 

Where do you have your amplifiers grounded? 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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On 4/27/2021 at 9:29 PM, Zori.L83 said:

Yup that ring is an absolute PITA, please lmk. i want to help as much as i can

I was looking at a picture my friend sent me of that sensor on the negative battery terminal but I don’t see it on my truck maybe some models don’t have it? I can’t find it online 

5D7D8627-4AA5-441C-81DF-AF62893C6762.jpeg

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On 4/27/2021 at 10:14 PM, Dafaseles said:

If it's anything like the RVC on the Chevrolet's, you'd wire 1/0 from the battery, through the ring and ground that to the engine block, then also ground the battery to the alternator. It doesn't really act right if you ground anything directly to the frame. Though this might be different on Fords. I'm going to do some digging when I get the chance. 

A couple of other questions that might change the wiring setup....

Are you only running 1 battery? 

AGM or lithium? 

What kind of audio setup are you running? 

Where do you have your amplifiers grounded? 

Thanks man I appreciate the help.  I have 2 AGM batteries. One under hood and one under back seat. I have 3 amps. But I’m probably taking 1 out. My amps are grounded under the seat. But I never had a problem until I changed the alternator lol. The alternator seems to be charging and I’m pretty sure that when the voltage goes up past 14 the charging system light comes on and it always drops it back to around 13.3 and the light goes off. But most up the time the voltage isn’t steady it jumps around 13-14.5 ish. I have a sensor on the negative terminal but it’s not that ring although on another forum it seems like some of the fords do have it

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On 4/27/2021 at 10:14 PM, Dafaseles said:

If it's anything like the RVC on the Chevrolet's, you'd wire 1/0 from the battery, through the ring and ground that to the engine block, then also ground the battery to the alternator. It doesn't really act right if you ground anything directly to the frame. Though this might be different on Fords. I'm going to do some digging when I get the chance. 

A couple of other questions that might change the wiring setup....

Are you only running 1 battery? 

AGM or lithium? 

What kind of audio setup are you running? 

Where do you have your amplifiers grounded? 

This is the sensor I have 

E0F0EBBB-F433-494D-A017-D8150E189B22.jpeg

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On 4/27/2021 at 7:03 PM, Zori.L83 said:

Hey brother, so yeah I was having a similar issue. Im not to familiar with Ford trucks but my issue was my ground as @Dafaseles mentioned. Both of our trucks come with a RVC sensor that pretty much monitors the grounds on the vehicle. However, im not too sure if your Ford has that but if it does and its a system where your new ground cables have to run through, then heres is what i did. 1/0 gauge cables all around btw. Put your new ground on the battery, then pull it through that sensor (if your truck has it) and run it all the way to the alternator casing. Mechman has a spot on its case where you put the grounds. After that, run another 1/0 power wire from the charging post on the alt to the positive on your battery. See if that does the trick. Now i would like to mention, my trucks flickering didnt go away completely but it stopped doing every 2 seconds and now its like every 10min or so. I left my truck running all day just to see if there is going to be a big issue and it seems like it runs fine. So im guessing its normal on these new trucks. As far as voltage, its not jumping around like before. Once i start the truck, it will be around 15 volts and it will dip to around 13.5 volts which is stable there. 

This is the sensor I have. When I unplug it the light instantly turns on 

5B5AB323-1D0A-4121-BDBD-CE5F78C95C6C.jpeg

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7 minutes ago, Zori.L83 said:

Oh wow. The silverado has a stand alone sensor not connected directly to the battery. Then my guess is keep the same method of wiring you have now and just upgrade the wire to 1/0

It’s crazy because on the ford forum some guys do have that sensor like Chevy. Maybe it’s just my luck. 

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