Dafaseles Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 3 minutes ago, Jimbo1227 said: Fuck this alternator lmao Damn.... that sucks. I'd call the crap out of mechman (not send emails, actually call) and see if they can give you some insight on this. I've read recently that the newer fords have a bunch of electrical bugs. One more thing to check, which I'm sure you have, just figured I'd mention it, is just make sure the alternator plug is nice and tight and none of the pins inside are loose. And just make sure all the connections are tight. But yeah dude, I'm sorry we couldn't help more. I'd start calling mechman. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1227 Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 1 minute ago, Dafaseles said: Damn.... that sucks. I'd call the crap out of mechman (not send emails, actually call) and see if they can give you some insight on this. I've read recently that the newer fords have a bunch of electrical bugs. One more thing to check, which I'm sure you have, just figured I'd mention it, is just make sure the alternator plug is nice and tight and none of the pins inside are loose. And just make sure all the connections are tight. But yeah dude, I'm sorry we couldn't help more. I'd start calling mechman. I’ve been back and forth with them first the said it was because I used the stock belt. I changed the belt even though they said it was a guessing game because they couldn’t tell me and exact size. Then it was my wire. I was running 4 guage but now 0. Could it possibly be that I need an even smaller belt? I went 1 inch down from stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jimbo1227 said: I’ve been back and forth with them first the said it was because I used the stock belt. I changed the belt even though they said it was a guessing game because they couldn’t tell me and exact size. Then it was my wire. I was running 4 guage but now 0. Could it possibly be that I need an even smaller belt? I went 1 inch down from stock It could be if the belt is slipping and your losing voltage due to that. Can you tell if your belt is slipping at all? Going down a whole inch is a lot though. Do you know the difference in size of the stock and mechman pulley? 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1227 Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 3 minutes ago, Dafaseles said: It could be if the belt is slipping and your losing voltage due to that. Can you tell if your belt is slipping at all? Going down a whole inch is a lot though. Do you know the difference in size of the stock and mechman pulley? I think it was 1.75 mm. Or something like that. Honestly it doesn’t look like it’s slipping to me but I’m no mechanic lol. I have my capacitor connected just so I can see the voltage and it’s never steady it jumps from 13.3 to 15.4 and everything in between lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 10 minutes ago, Jimbo1227 said: I’ve been back and forth with them first the said it was because I used the stock belt. I changed the belt even though they said it was a guessing game because they couldn’t tell me and exact size. Then it was my wire. I was running 4 guage but now 0. Could it possibly be that I need an even smaller belt? I went 1 inch down from stock I just read this literally 2 minutes ago... There was a guy who was having a little different an issue (voltage spikes above 17 volts) but I can see the same issue causing what you've been describing. This is what he said... You may have a bad connection in the plug-in connector...or there may be a fatique separation somewhere inside that wire. From your symptoms, that 'signal' is not getting fed back to the alternator continually, so it isn't getting the correct signal on when to charge and when NOT to charge. He changed the connector at the alternator and it fixed the issue. Problem is I have no idea how you test that without just changing it 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1227 Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 1 minute ago, Dafaseles said: I just read this literally 2 minutes ago... There was a guy who was having a little different an issue (voltage spikes above 17 volts) but I can see the same issue causing what you've been describing. This is what he said... You may have a bad connection in the plug-in connector...or there may be a fatique separation somewhere inside that wire. From your symptoms, that 'signal' is not getting fed back to the alternator continually, so it isn't getting the correct signal on when to charge and when NOT to charge. He changed the connector at the alternator and it fixed the issue. Problem is I have no idea how you test that without just changing it Like the actual plastic piece on the alternator? Because when I put my stock alternator back in it goes back to normal with no lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 13 minutes ago, Jimbo1227 said: Like the actual plastic piece on the alternator? Because when I put my stock alternator back in it goes back to normal with no lights Yeah, if it works fine with your old alternator, it's not that. Damnit! I want to know the answer lol. To be able to help you, and my cousin has a newer f150 (I think a 17) and he wants to install some stuff. It has to be something factory that is getting confused with all the extra amperage. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1227 Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 Just now, Dafaseles said: Yeah, if it works fine with your old alternator, it's not that. Damnit! I want to know the answer lol. To be able to help you, and my cousin has a newer f150 (I think a 17) and he wants to install some stuff. It has to be something factory that is getting confused with all the extra amperage. Damn I thought you were my savior lmao. I did unplug that sensor and the light went off 🤷. I really don’t know what it could be. I drove the truck and it didn’t die on me but the headlights flickering is gonna drive me absolutely insane. There has to be someone else with this problem the hard part is finding them lol. I tested the battery and when car is running voltage goes up so I’m gonna assume nothing is wrong with alternator. I asked a ton of people and no one knows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 So yeah, those mechman alternators have an internal exciter. So if it's unplugged, it'll still work. By headlights flickering, do you mean dimming when the bass kicks? Or actually turning on and off? I ask because you're not dipping into dangerous levels. And as far as the charging light goes, you'd have to look into it, but you can usually find a way to bypass it. Now if your headlights are actually turning on and off, that's a safety issue. But if they're just dimming, the hard truth is there really isn't a 100% fix for it. I don't know if you have LED's, but people have had success running LED's because they use less electricity than standard headlights and taillights, thus dimming less or almost entirely gone 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo1227 Posted May 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 11 hours ago, Dafaseles said: So yeah, those mechman alternators have an internal exciter. So if it's unplugged, it'll still work. By headlights flickering, do you mean dimming when the bass kicks? Or actually turning on and off? I ask because you're not dipping into dangerous levels. And as far as the charging light goes, you'd have to look into it, but you can usually find a way to bypass it. Now if your headlights are actually turning on and off, that's a safety issue. But if they're just dimming, the hard truth is there really isn't a 100% fix for it. I don't know if you have LED's, but people have had success running LED's because they use less electricity than standard headlights and taillights, thus dimming less or almost entirely gone Not turning off and on but flickering. So it looks like when the bass is hitting but with nothing on in the truck Lmaooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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