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Help with 3 way active setup


markcrnll

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     Reaching out today to get some direction and suggestions on my 3 way front stage setup. It's going in the "Mini Monster" (2008 Toyota Yaris hatchback in the build logs section). Mid bass running on Taramps MD3k, midrange on Taramps MD3K and tweeters on my old Taramps 800x4. All hooked up to a DSP. Though open to suggestions, I am pretty set on picking out my mid bass and midrange drivers. Not sure on the the tweeters just yet as they are the least of my concerns but open to suggestions on those. So here's what we're working with.

 

Mid bass: 2 Taramps 7 Driver 8" mid bass drivers. FS 37.7hz, QTS .410, XMAX 12mm, dual voice coil, 600 rms, frequency response 30hz-1000hz, VAS 18.744 liters.

     I know I'm going to catch a lot of flack for choosing a driver from Taramps but if you take a look at their 7 Driver line it's all premium drivers from $100-$400. Anyways, I would like to high pass to mid bass around 60hz. The box specs I was most fond of for this driver is 28 liters, tuned to 43hz with port area 8342mm (4" round, 16" long). I was talking with the manufacturer and he suggested very similar box specs (only tuned 10 hz lower but I'm not trying to go that low) and also suggested low passing over to midrange at 120hz 24db (what do y'all think of that suggested crossover?). These configurations give me flat bandwidth from 70hz-270hz with a small peak around 45hz. Picture of this graph posted below in next post. Would I want to include that small peak in my crossover? Or put it just below that away we are flat the entire response? 

 

Midrange: 4 Crescendo UN10s, 2 per door. FS 70hz, QTS .24, VAS 15.5 liters.

     I need some suggestions on enclosure type. Open baffle, sealed or ported. Just imagine there are no limitations on the door regarding volume or ingenuity. I'm doing fiberglass doors and anything goes, I seem to have it in my head that I really want to run these ported (yes, I can make that happen and am more then willing if I decide I want to go that direction). I've inputted all the specs I can into my box calculator for the UN10 and it doesn't work out sealed (though it seems like that's how everyone seems to be running them?) but works out great ported with a variety of options on tuning and multiple different cabinet volumes. I have a few freq response curves mapped out for different cabinet specs that seem to work well but I have yet to see anyone run them ported and can't figure out why. Do they really run better with open back and no port? Or is the extra work just not worth it for most when they do just fine otherwise? What do you recommend for crossovers? I would rather cater the mid bass frequency range to the UN10s.

 

Highs:

     Most likely just 4 3.5" bullet tweeters. Ran them in the past, never had any issues except having to turn them down lol. Open to suggestions. Researched compression drivers and such quite a bit. They seem nice, but not necessary. Any benefits to compression drivers? Think I read once they're good for sound imaging if you can't direct the tweeters where you need them... Will be running on 800x4.

 

     Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Ready to make some purchases and move forward. Ever ran UN10s? chime in. Done multiple door panels? chime in. Would really like to catch up with someone who has experience in building door panels both sealed and ported that has a lot of perspective on the subject. I've had WWAAAAYYYY to many responses such as " try this brand dude" or "I just see people doing it like this". Good information can be hard to come by on the internet sometimes.

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I’m still looking for opinions and preferences on crossovers. Along with direction on how y’all may recommend staging my UN10s. I’ve posted this on a couple of Facebook groups also and not getting any responses. No help or suggestion is too small please and thank you.

All my drivers are purchased. Been practicing my my glassing, molds, gelcoat and bondo/ fairing recipes for the project here in 3 weeks (glass and gelcoat cabin and wall along with front stage makeover).

Would someone be kind enough to chime in and help a bass head out please🙂

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So I guess maybe I’ll try this. I’ll throw some of my thoughts out there as a conversation starter.

 

I think the midbass would do well from 60hz to 150hz. Reason for HP is my subs sound good up to around the 50s. They’re tuned to 29hz and peak at 33hz. Reason for LP is...1) manufacturer recommended 120hz. 2) my UN10s are more then comfortable that low. Cutting my UN10s off around 150hz seems pretty appropriate and should allow them to see their upper limit on power handling no questions asked. I thought it may be a good idea in catering the midbass LPF to the UN10s preferences if that makes any sense.

 

I think the midrange would do well from 150hz to 2000hz. Nobody has given me any real world experiences with running UN10s ported so I’m guessing open back/ infinite baffle is what I’ll be doing with the fiberglass door panels. 
 

I think the tweeters would do well from 2khz on up. I see a lot of different opinions on tweeter crossovers. Most from 1500hz to 2500hz. 
 

Any thoughts????

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Honestly, it seems like you've done a ton of research and you're into a good idea. I say run it and see if you like it. With a DSP, you can always adjust it as you need. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Thank you. I got the speaker equipment settled on and purchased. Midbass pod designed, bullet tweeter locations picked out... now alls I have to do is figure out how I’d like to stage these UN 10s in my doors. Sealed, ported or open back/ infinite baffle. Seems like I can’t really go wrong with open back I’m thinking? Seems like I should be making this decision based on the QTS of the speaker but I’m not bringing that up anymore I think it pushes ppl away from answering questions sometimes. It’s crazy how many places and people I’ve reached out to that are unable to help on the whole front stage subject. Thank you Dafaseles, I really appreciate the response.

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19 minutes ago, markcrnll said:

Thank you. I got the speaker equipment settled on and purchased. Midbass pod designed, bullet tweeter locations picked out... now alls I have to do is figure out how I’d like to stage these UN 10s in my doors. Sealed, ported or open back/ infinite baffle. Seems like I can’t really go wrong with open back I’m thinking? Seems like I should be making this decision based on the QTS of the speaker but I’m not bringing that up anymore I think it pushes ppl away from answering questions sometimes. It’s crazy how many places and people I’ve reached out to that are unable to help on the whole front stage subject. Thank you Dafaseles, I really appreciate the response.

I'm no expert on the topic, but when I started thinking about my upgrade, I stressed over this a little as well. I decided to go sealed, but I'm running a 2 way system so my 8's will be mid bass and mid range. I don't have any concrete evidence on why I think sealed will be better for my application, honestly it's a 100% guess. 

Here's how I see it. The concrete evidence is there with subwoofer enclosures. Ported is there to peak around a certain level. Where it peaks alters the response curve around that peak. A sealed enclosure has more of a flat response, but you lose some output at certain levels. I'm ok with that because I'm going to be running 4 8's and 4 tweeters each door totaling about 3000 watts of amplifier power. I don't think volume will be an issue. Same with open back approach, but I would personally rather the sounds waves from the rear bounce off a flat, wood surface rather than a sound deadened, uneven metal door with holes in it. 

Add far as the QTS goes, yeah, it matters with subwoofers, but all the parts that go into calculating the QTS are so much bigger and more powerful on a subwoofer than mid bass and mid range speakers. So I don't think those values are so important when it comes to those type speakers. From what I've been told by a couple OG's is that those speakers will pretty much act the same in any enclosure type or size with minimal differences that the average human ear will probably never pick up

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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