SuzukiGS750EZ Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 Hey guys, i have a stock 2014 Altima. I needed a new battery this winter so i bought a yellow top, that's all i've really done. I have a "400w" skar audio skv2 100.4AB which will power my 4 speakers and i also have a 1400w Mmats monoblock amp at 1 ohm. I'm planning on running 1/0 to a distribution block in the trunk and 4ga runs off of that to both amps. I have in my cart from knu conceptz: -1/0 to 4ga distribution block for the ground cables with two links instead of fuses -Kolossus dual amp 0 ga kit -30 feet of 12ga speaker wire -twisted 4 channel rca cable -positive battery terminal and top post adapter Do I need anything else? Is it safe to run all of this on stock? I'd imagine worst case scenerio it'll be pulling too many amps and dim stuff, correct? Do I need a bigger alternator? I know big 3 is a must, i will do that eventually. I did it in my other car. I just want to get all this run and installed first. I've always just ran subs, never ran amped speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 I wouldn't eventually get around to doing the big 3. I'd do that before anything. Under powering an amplifier can lead to the amp burning out and/ or blowing your subs because of clipping. Because you're trying to do this with a single yellow top and a stick alternator, the big 3 is huge. Do you know how much your stock alternator is putting out? 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 Stock is rated at 110, who actually knows what it outputs. I'd like to get the car supported to take on the amps before installing them if it's going to need more than the big 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 Trying to keep this whole thing as inexpensive and simple as possible, I think at the very bare minimum, if you're going to keep the stock alternator, get another yellow top. That's not a crazy amount of wattage, I think that alternator and 2 yellow tops should be able to keep up (about 75% sure). Get a cheap voltmeter so you can monitor the voltage (even just a super cheapo cigarette lighter one is better than nothing) and make sure it doesn't drop too much. If it can't keep up, if you can find a good alternator shop in your area, sometimes they can rebuild it to put out a little more power and that would be cheaper than a brand new high output one. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted May 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 OK! What do I need to run a second battery and how does that get hooked up? I assume it would go in the trunk. If I add a high output alternator, the second battery would be icing on the cake, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dafaseles Posted May 9, 2021 Report Share Posted May 9, 2021 If you add maybe a 270-320 amp high output alternator from a reputable company, then you probably wouldn't even need the second battery. Whichever rout you want to go. To install the second battery, you would just need 2 runs of 1/0 from the front battery positive to the back battery positive. You can also do the same for the grounds, or just ground the front normal and then ground the back battery to the frame. You'll also want to fuse the runs. 1/0 OFC is good to about 350 amps, so you'd fuse each run with a 350 amp fuse as close to each battery as possible. (So a total of 4 350a fuses). That'll make it safe. It'll blow the fuses before it burns your car down. 2011 Chevy Silverado under construction My build log here. Check it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuzukiGS750EZ Posted May 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2021 So, alternator (200a) is $500. Apparently altima 2.5 alternators aren't built much for ho. Would I be better running another battery at this point for half that? Would it achieve the same result? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LT.Smoke Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 On 5/10/2021 at 6:47 AM, SuzukiGS750EZ said: So, alternator (200a) is $500. Apparently altima 2.5 alternators aren't built much for ho. Would I be better running another battery at this point for half that? Would it achieve the same result? Nooo that's false...Plenty of HO offerings for Altima.. I have an auto tech 320 on my 2015 Altima 2.5S ...Contact auto tech engineering on FB Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stingray72 Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 I had a 2011 nissan altima sl 2.5 and they have that voltage regulation crap so the voltage doesnt stay very high get an adjustable voltage regulator to go with the ho alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmizzle99 Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 Hey SuzukiGS750EZ, I have a brand new, never been used Mechman 270A alternator for 2013 3.5 Altima. I won it for SOTM but the car was a lease so it was never installed. I’ve had it since. Contact me if you want it…no charge ( you pay shipping) Camaro SS Build Altima build 2.0 Altima build 1.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.