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That does. I actually ordered new RCA's & speaker wire yesterday. Although I've done this already gonna try one more time lol. Don't have a cd player but downloaded DD-1 & CC-1 test tones on to a flash drive and checked it both ways & pretty much same results. I may have even done with the HU out of the vehicle but was using crappie RCA's & not sure if I was doing the 4khz at that time so I guess we'll see. I know when I went active, or whatever it's called, letting the HU split the signal thereby was major improvements from were I was previously. Bout ready to drive it in to a lake lol. By both ways I meant with phone & flash drive. 

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It seems like you've eliminated every component from being the cause. Let me just verify with you...

You've changed the head unit=no change

You've changed the source (phone and a flash drive)=no change

You've changed the speakers=no change

You've changed the amplifier=no change

You've changed the RCA's=no change

The next step I would take is just go back over all connections with a fine tooth comb and make sure they're tight. Battery to fuse to amplifier to ground to speaker outputs, to RCA outputs and inputs to your ground. Then I would try each speaker separately to double check if every speaker is doing it. If every speaker is doing it, I'd make sure that no bare metal on the speaker is touching bare metal. If it's not all the speakers, I would take the offending speaker(s) out and play them free air to see if the problem persisted. 

By going active, do you mean you bought a DSP? Not that it really matters because the problem was there before, just curious

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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By active I meant HU in network mode where channel A is ur highs w/hpf, channel B is for mids & has bandpass hpf & lpf & the C is Sub channel. No DPS although I did install an Audio Control DQDX once early on & no major difference so I sent it back. I am running an Epicenter on sub channel and had/have a AC Matrix line driver but no major gains there except for engine whine etc. I was fighting an engine noise whine but had it gone after removing the 1 Alpine amp & the Matrix & just going with the two pioneer amps running the mids & highs but has come back (not as bad) after moving some of the rca & speaker wires around, just cleaning up the install cause I was in a hurry when I swapped amps which is why I ordered new RCA's & speaker wire thinking it might have something to do with it.

I'm running kicker RCA'S from Best Buy & 12ga speaker wire from Crutchfield but I did notice when I was cleaning things up on a section of the speaker wire the actual copper wire was a lot closer to the side & not centered in the jacket so it's possible that could be an issue.

Could be picking up some noise/interference thru the speaker wires especially like where it goes in to the doors along with the wires for electric locks, windows, etc. This thing has been driving me nuts now for a few years & costing me a fortune in equipment, especially speakers lol.

I've had to two local audio shops work on it, one after trying multiple things including installing jl audio c2-650 components & temporarily stuck a jl amp in but nothing changed so he pulled it out & was so stumped he give up lol. I eas running a 5 channel pioneer at the time.

Blew the C2-650's, changed over to the Alpine X-series amps, components, & coaxials, & added separate amp for sub. Headlights were dimming so had another shop do the big 3 upgrade & supposedly tuned it but I could still here sizzling/crackling sound in the system. Blew two sets of X-series speakers (got first ones covered under warranty) bought the third set & moved the comps & coaxials to front doors, added an Alpine kt-450 (50x4/100x2 bridged) & set of coaxials in rear doors, added more thinking I was pushing the system too hard & same thing, blew the X-series coaxials & tweeters on the comps, obviously not at same time. That's another reason I believe it's distortion cause they seem to slowly die off 1 speaker at a time. So I changed HU to network, removed Alpine kt-450, put in the pioneer gm-dx874 amp 100x4, kicker tweeters & new set of Alpine X-series coaxials, again lost them & finished off the sub/mids on the comps. Removed all the Alpine thinking maybe amp problem, installed a 2nd pioneer gm-dx874 amp 100x4 with 3 brand new pair of Memphis Audio MJP6 w/kicker tweeters and can hear the distortion so I'm scared to play it, much less, crank it up lol. Other than changing RCA's & speaker wires or setting it on fire wth can I do lol. And BTW I do appreciate the feedback. 

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After all that, the problem still remains. So you have to think, after all that, what piece of equipment has been installed throughout the whole process? 

If the problem never changes after all that, there's still something you haven't changed. It could be the speaker wire, though if it's happening on all the speakers, not just one, I don't think that's the case. 

You can be getting outside noise through your RCA's. Look for shielded RCA's. I love knuconcepts but you don't have to go with those. 

That is a tricky thing. But there has to be 1 thing that has remained throughout all those changes that's causing it

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Yes at the rca's before going in to amp. I think it was a little higher volume tho, like 16 or 17 at 4khz - 10db hut thru amps it's at like 13 or something it's crazy. I bought the Stinger 8000 series Rca's & their speaker wire also. One thing I need to mention is, the last time I pulled the HU out (was about to trash it lol) I found a wire spliced. Apparently who owned the tru previously was installing a stereo or and instead of cutting speaker wires they cut in to what I think was some info or climate control wire or something that ties in with radio and did a crap job splicing it. I pulled it apart & soldered it back together. I don't know if that may be an issue or not.

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It really depends on what that wire is. 

 

Just to be clear, when you say you see distortion at a lower volume (16ish i think you said) are you saying there is a blip at that particular volume or does the distortion stay there until you get to that higher volume lever (36 I think you said) and then go away?

 

If it's just a blip at a certain volume level, I don't think that is very unusual but I could very easily be wrong.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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No with the 4khz -10db distortion light illuminates  & remains on until u go back below volume 16 thru HU & 13 thru amp. I believe that's what it was. At best it was 16 thru amp. The normal 1khz distorts at v.36 & 40hz at v.39 or vice-versa. I've tried setting the gains with volume at 30 & 35 and I think I tried it with volume at like 15 but run out of gain before it would get loud lol.

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