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I was wondering in my 2006 Honda Accord if I could take two 12 inch g w - 124 Power Acoustik Subs in there sealed boxes built to the optimized specification for sealed and turn my trunk into a bandpass enclosure system which is sealed with a combination of plasti Dip, flex tape, and flex paste.  The back seat port opening for the arm rest in the middle is 10.75inx 6.25in. I've got this far with the project and looking for advice about where to go from here and how I should construct the rest to get optimal sound quality. Will this even work properly.. the specs for amps and subs are in the attachments. Each sub will be wired at 2 ohms to there own amp and wired to the accessory battery im installing in the trunk in between the amps. I have upgraded engine grounds and power wire from alternator to main battery to 2 ga. OFC  and have oversized 1/0 OfC running from the main battery to the accessorie battery.  Then plan to use 2 ga. OFC wire from the 2nd battery  to each amp with the amp ground being 2 ga also.. any advice is appreciated.  Thanks in advance... I'm  thinking the 3 clambered bandpass style will be best??? Do you use the optimal sealed box volume for each side in this type of bandpass and how do I figure for the volume of the middle and figure the port opening size?? Is there other ways to utilize a completly sealed trunk with 2 sealed subs that would sound better then the 3 chamber bandpass set-up? 2006 honda accord  sedan..  20210731_053332.heic

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Hey Audioin,

 

Any chance you could convert the pics to JPEG/PNG/BMP format?  The forum is able to display them as pics rather than files that have to be downloaded and then opened.  I had to use the GIMP to view the pictures (as I haven't purchased the HEIF/HEVC extensions from the Microsoft store)

 

A couple of thoughts:

  • In the 1st picture I downloaded and opened in GIMP, it looked like the enclosures are independent sealed chambers that directly face one another.  You will likely have issues with soundwave cancelation as the waves emitting from the subs will collide with each other potentially causing some weird audible anomalies.  Rather than scrapping what you already have done, you might be able to do something like this:

 

Trunk-build-idea.thumb.png.59d0552ac9c9a9441b3ad567358f6e22.png

 

 

Above would be a top-down look.  With an MDF (or whatever material) diffuser, the sound waves would travel out from the sub cones and then bounce off their perspective diffuser face essentially breaking up the path of the sound waves and preventing them from canceling each other out.

  • I didn't download and open all of the files so I'm not sure what amplifiers you have, but the stock charging system in an '06 Accord doesn't have a lot of headroom in terms of available amperage.  The good news is - it's a super popular car, so there are definitely options for you to go with an aftermarket high output alternator from somebody like Mechman or US Alternators (or whatever brand strikes your fancy).  Without upgrading your alternator no amount of OFC or extra batteries will safeguard you against voltage drop.  As soon as your voltage starts dropping below 12 your amps will be prone to clipping which can/will in turn damage your subs.
  • Also, when you tune your sub amps, use a voltage meter on the speaker outputs (without speakers connected) while playing a test tone to match your gains.  Ideally you would use something like a DD-1 to set both amp gains (or if the amplifiers have a clip indicator you can use that), then take a voltage reading of the A/C output of both amps and then lower the gain on which ever one is higher to match the voltage output of the other amp.  While not impossible, it is highly unlikely both will have identical output.  Gain matching the amps like this will help balance the sub stage and again help prevent weird audible anomalies.
  • As for turning the trunk into a 4th order enclosure, that more or less happens by default.  Technically it would actually be something like a 6th order starting with the sealed boxes, then the trunk acting as the 4th order and the cabin acting as the 6th order.  With that said, there is no reason you couldn't play around with port lengths to try and tune it to your liking.  Maybe set the port that passes through into the cabin where it can be adjustable.  It is next to impossible to try and model the entire car to achieve a specific tuning frequency from the trunk into the cabin in a setup like this, but there are a lot of leavers you tweak to adjust the sound.
  • Rather than plasti-dip / flex tape etc - take a look at a seam sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dynatron-550-Auto-Sealer-Caulk/dp/B005RNFBMC it's designed for sealing up sheet metal in automotive applications and is pretty easy to work with.  After that, so long as you don't care about folding down your back seats you could wall directly behind the back seats only leaving the port pass-through open for the port that would come through the arm wrest.
  • Once you seal the trunk seams, you could consider fiberglassing the trunk to add a little strength and sealing, but before going that far, maybe just sound deaden the hell out of it which will focus the sound energy through the port into the cab.  For that matter, sound deaden every inch of sheet metal you can find in the car and that will help focus all of the sound energy resulting in more volume.

 

I know that's a lot, but hopefully it helps!

 

✌️

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