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Alpine SWT-12S4 What wire/amp to use with it.


Lukis

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Just now, Lukis said:

Just the amp for the sub. My car has already pretty good speakers installed but it just lacks that extra punch.

Let's pick out an amp, then we'll tackle wiring and fuses 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Just now, Lukis said:

Its an of topic question but if my headunit didin't have the rca ports in the back is there away to hook them up to the amp?

Yes. A line out converter. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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6 minutes ago, Lukis said:

Can you explain about the conventer thingy?

 

Ok, so to be able to use RCA's (low level input) you'll need what's called a LOC (line out converter) what you would need to do is cut into the vehicle stock stereo wiring, then attach what's called the high level input into the LOC, then LOC, using RCA's into the amplifier. This can be done at different locations depending on the vehicles stock system setup. My advice is to not cheap out on the LOC. I've read too many horror stories about cheap LOC's not working, adding distortion, not doing what you need it to do basically. Newer vehicles will send and alter the signal going to the stock speakers in order to make it so the crappy stock speakers "sound good" and don't blow over time. If you buy an LOC that doesn't fix that problem, and make the signal going to your amp "flat" and not altered, then you'll have crappy output. You don't want that. 

13 minutes ago, Lukis said:

Lets go with Alpine MRV-500

So, that amplifier wants 4 awg power and ground wire. I know the measurement is measured in millimeters over seas, so whatever that equivalent is, use that size. I'm just going to refer to it as 4 awg, because that's what I know. So from your batteries positive terminal, 4 awg wire (preferably OFC cable, not CCA), into an in line fuse holder with a 60 amp fuse AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERY AS YOU CAN. That will protect your amplifier from accepting more amperage than it can handle, and the wire itself to prevent your car from burning down. Then 4 awg from that fuse holder to the amplifiers positive input. Then another 4 awg run that is as short as possible, connected to your vehicles chassis and the ground (-) terminal on the amplifier. Make sure where you connect that is free of any paint and as clean and tight as you can make it. I would use 8 awg speaker wire, but 10 awg will work just fine. 

That amp has a single channel and 2 channel mode built into it. So make sure you're using the single channel mode. 

I hope that all makes sense

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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9 minutes ago, Lukis said:

Okay, thanks for the help. Looking forward to putting some work in. If I need some I know where to help. 

When you get the amplifier, and the LOC, READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY. Twice if you need to. 99% of the time, they will tell you exactly what you need to know. But if course, myself, and the other fine people on this forum, are always down to help

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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