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2018 golf R - upgrading "Premium" fender audio system


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Also, to clean up the wiring under my seat, make it really plug-and-play and looking like OEM under there, I ordered the Male version of the amplifier plug so I can solder my speaker wires to it from the amp. Got the order info from another member on DIYMAHoping that it comes in the next week or two so I can finalize those connections before I start driving around too much.

 

Here is the info for anyone that may be interested:

 

TE Connectivity part number 1534531-1 TAB HEADER ASSY 38P 

AMP MCP Connector System, PCB Mount Header, Horizontal, Wire-to-Board, 38 Position, .197in [2.54mm / 4.2mm / 5.5mm] Centerline, Fully Shrouded

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1534531-1.html?te_bu=Cor&te_type=email&te_campaign=oth_usa_cor-oth-usa-email-ecomm-fy19-hbrs-oconf-prdlink_sma-716_2&elqCampaignId=37418

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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4 hours ago, BboyTaktix said:

Also, to clean up the wiring under my seat, make it really plug-and-play and looking like OEM under there, I ordered the Male version of the amplifier plug so I can solder my speaker wires to it from the amp. Got the order info from another member on DIYMAHoping that it comes in the next week or two so I can finalize those connections before I start driving around too much.

 

Here is the info for anyone that may be interested:

 

TE Connectivity part number 1534531-1 TAB HEADER ASSY 38P 

AMP MCP Connector System, PCB Mount Header, Horizontal, Wire-to-Board, 38 Position, .197in [2.54mm / 4.2mm / 5.5mm] Centerline, Fully Shrouded

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1534531-1.html?te_bu=Cor&te_type=email&te_campaign=oth_usa_cor-oth-usa-email-ecomm-fy19-hbrs-oconf-prdlink_sma-716_2&elqCampaignId=37418

I find it so hard to make aftermarket things look stock. That's a cool little technique that will just add to the esthetics that I think people overlook. I wouldn't have even thought to do it. That's going to look pretty slick! 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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2 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

I find it so hard to make aftermarket things look stock. That's a cool little technique that will just add to the esthetics that I think people overlook. I wouldn't have even thought to do it. That's going to look pretty slick! 

Thanks! I was surprised to see that Volkswagen implemented tech flex on a lot of their wiring, especially under the seat. When I toured the speaker wires under there they marched almost perfectly - the Zen-V mounting I managed to get looking pretty clean too - once I get this connector soldered up to speaker wire and plugged in, I’ll cover it up with the OEM amplifier cover and it will be very clean. But also it will be very secure which is my biggest concern. I’d like it to last another 3 years until I think about switching cars. 

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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Another small update to share - got to working on the DSP remote, mounting it in a nice stealth location that was otherwise unused.  Not perfect but I am pretty happy with the results. This was an imperfect shape to copy so I did my best.

 

 

Started with a cardboard template, then transferred over to ABS plastic, straightened out the sides with a straight piece of MDF to get a nicer finish and rounded top corners. 

 

 

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Did a 1/8" chamfer all around the front side to ease wrapping it in carpet. 

 

 

 

 

 

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&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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57 minutes ago, BboyTaktix said:

Another small update to share - got to working on the DSP remote, mounting it in a nice stealth location that was otherwise unused.  Not perfect but I am pretty happy with the results. This was an imperfect shape to copy so I did my best.

 

 

Started with a cardboard template, then transferred over to ABS plastic, straightened out the sides with a straight piece of MDF to get a nicer finish and rounded top corners. 

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

 

 

 

 

Did a 1/8" chamfer all around the front side to ease wrapping it in carpet. 

 

 

 

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

 

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

 

&hash=e2ab510fe35bc3ce530273bc287149fd

That was a good idea hiding it in that cubby space. You wouldn't even know it was there of you didn't know it was there! 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Yes I like the stealth and also ease of access while driving if needed. 
 

The aux plug is just press fit In the hole - I’ll need a method of ensuring it doesn’t fall out if I push in the aux male plug into it - maybe I’ll just put a bit of glue around the rim to hold it there. Only a $12 cable so worst case if I need to remove eventually I just cut it.

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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I was having some DSP issues with the Zapco GUI which nobody seemed to be able to help me figure out. Through testing and extensive trial and error, I FINALLY found a work-around for my DSP issue - although I think it is a major glitch in the processor GUI, unfortunately. Looks like not a ton of people are running the DSP-V8 original (more seem to be on the V8 II which has an updated GUI)

 

The issue was that the DSP would not retain any changes in the crossover points or slope at all. I would save the program, then re-open it in the GUI and crossover slopes and frequencies remained the same as before. Same if I tried to download to the unit - I would write to device, then read from device (or close program, restart then read from device) and the old values were still there. 

 

I had to basically connect to the DSP, delete all presets, then go to "factory settings" which seemed to do something funky to the DSP. I then exited the GUI on my tablet, shut off the car to power down everything, then re-connected and re-started inputting all my settings from scratch (I had a photo of course) and wrote it to the DSP and BOOM it worked. I really hope I don<t have to do this each time I want to change the crossover points as it is a pain BUT after measuring with REW I assume I would get a better final idea of where the drivers perform well and do one final adjustment on the crossover points, so not a deal breaker. 

 

My crossover slopes all set to 24dB now, tweets at 3000 Hz up, mids at 80-3000 Hz - rears full range from 100hz up (they have built in crossovers), and subs at 80hz low pass. 

 

Now I have a base setup I need to take the time to start measuring and tuning. Hopefully this weekend - I assume it's a good couple of hours job to get a basic tune in there. I will need to get some renos done on our upstairs unit first, so I may have to wait a week or two to tune this. At least I can listen though!

 

I don't seem to be getting much midbass from the door drivers; I tried just playing them on their own and observed this - not sure if it's just me or because they're small 5-1/4 and placement is in the doors which is imperfect. They're just not as punchy as I would have thought. . If I put them down to 60HZ crossover hey are a little more punchy, but their specs say 58hZ minimum frequency response and so I don't want to go too close and push them too much. 

 

I may have to re-do the gains on the amps because the DSP master volume was previously at max, but in reality it is supposed to be set to 0dB (third tick from max) which gives me more headroom at my head unit's max volume.  It's pretty loud to begin with, but I have a feeling I will get used to it quick and when I am driving on highway I may want a little more - we shall see. I haven<t tried it much over half volume. 

 

Tried without the rears and I can confirm they do add something even if at lower volume than the rest - if gives a kind of larger image of sound stage - I like it but I really need to do more research, reading and watch some videos on how to optimally tune rear fill to have the greatest effect in my system. 

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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18 hours ago, BboyTaktix said:

I was having some DSP issues with the Zapco GUI which nobody seemed to be able to help me figure out. Through testing and extensive trial and error, I FINALLY found a work-around for my DSP issue - although I think it is a major glitch in the processor GUI, unfortunately. Looks like not a ton of people are running the DSP-V8 original (more seem to be on the V8 II which has an updated GUI)

 

The issue was that the DSP would not retain any changes in the crossover points or slope at all. I would save the program, then re-open it in the GUI and crossover slopes and frequencies remained the same as before. Same if I tried to download to the unit - I would write to device, then read from device (or close program, restart then read from device) and the old values were still there. 

 

I had to basically connect to the DSP, delete all presets, then go to "factory settings" which seemed to do something funky to the DSP. I then exited the GUI on my tablet, shut off the car to power down everything, then re-connected and re-started inputting all my settings from scratch (I had a photo of course) and wrote it to the DSP and BOOM it worked. I really hope I don<t have to do this each time I want to change the crossover points as it is a pain BUT after measuring with REW I assume I would get a better final idea of where the drivers perform well and do one final adjustment on the crossover points, so not a deal breaker. 

 

My crossover slopes all set to 24dB now, tweets at 3000 Hz up, mids at 80-3000 Hz - rears full range from 100hz up (they have built in crossovers), and subs at 80hz low pass. 

 

Now I have a base setup I need to take the time to start measuring and tuning. Hopefully this weekend - I assume it's a good couple of hours job to get a basic tune in there. I will need to get some renos done on our upstairs unit first, so I may have to wait a week or two to tune this. At least I can listen though!

 

I don't seem to be getting much midbass from the door drivers; I tried just playing them on their own and observed this - not sure if it's just me or because they're small 5-1/4 and placement is in the doors which is imperfect. They're just not as punchy as I would have thought. . If I put them down to 60HZ crossover hey are a little more punchy, but their specs say 58hZ minimum frequency response and so I don't want to go too close and push them too much. 

 

I may have to re-do the gains on the amps because the DSP master volume was previously at max, but in reality it is supposed to be set to 0dB (third tick from max) which gives me more headroom at my head unit's max volume.  It's pretty loud to begin with, but I have a feeling I will get used to it quick and when I am driving on highway I may want a little more - we shall see. I haven<t tried it much over half volume. 

 

Tried without the rears and I can confirm they do add something even if at lower volume than the rest - if gives a kind of larger image of sound stage - I like it but I really need to do more research, reading and watch some videos on how to optimally tune rear fill to have the greatest effect in my system. 

Man, that would suck having to completely reset that thing every time you wanted to change something. Unfortunately, it is what it is. I would have never guessed lol. 

Hopefully you get to sit down and tune that thing soon! 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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33 minutes ago, Dafaseles said:

Man, that would suck having to completely reset that thing every time you wanted to change something. Unfortunately, it is what it is. I would have never guessed lol. 

Hopefully you get to sit down and tune that thing soon! 

 

definitely soon, within the next weekend or two - right now I am reading up on REW (just downloaded to my laptop and tablet) - the only thing is I find the instructions are not  SUPER intuitive for a first-timer. I have a few very basic procedural questions such as - do we sit outside the car while tuning? In the passenger seat or back seat? All this would affect the reading (less so sitting in back seat I guess) but then if you sit outside the vehicle, you'll have to run the wire outside to the computer. I assume slightly lowering the window is preferable to leaving the door slightly ajar. 

 

Also if I run the REQ tones through the DSP AUX input, I assume that would be fine because we are just taking measurements of each speaker characteristics themselves with sample noises rather than from a specific source (ie spotify etc.) so it shouldn't make much of a difference. It also states to remove all crossover settings to do the tests, do I assume this is also in the DSP, and then I will have to ensure that in REW, for tweeters measurement, the test tones don't go below Fs (ie 1350hZ)? Simple questions to help me get started, but the process itself seems straightforward enough, just time consuming! 

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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..or am I just better to skip the REW test tones/filters portion (as per the REW instruction page) and go with playing plain old pink noise from REW in each speaker individually, then in pairs, then check the summation, and manually tune from the DSP software at each step where I see dips and peaks? This is what I thought to have understood from most tuners (ie youtube etc.) but I never see them go through the actual process, only showing the before and after correction curves.

 

2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp)

SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)

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