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Grounding system with voltage regulator


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@MECHMANI have a question you might be able to help me with. I'll try to keep it as short as possible.

I am putting a system into a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Installed, I have a Mechman Elite 370 (about 5 or 6 years old). My truck has the voltage regulator controller in between the battery negative and the engine block ground. 

I read from a piece of Mechman literature, and I've also seen Mr. Meade talk about it in his escalade, that because of the voltage controller, you shouldn't ground anything to the frame, and instead of a big 3 upgrade, it would be more like a big 2 upgrade. 

My question is about my plan to ground everything. If it's right and will it be sufficient. I won't be running a battery under the hood, just a lithium battery in the bed with the amps and the subwoofer enclosure, so I have a battery delete setup in the stock battery location. Amplifiers are 2 Sundown SALT 4's, a Cresendo C2000.4D, and a Cresendo S1 (880.4). 

The positive side is just 2 runs of 1/0 from alternator to battery delete, then battery delete to Lithium battery in the bed (along with proper fusing). 

My plan to ground is a run of 1/0 from the lithium battery to a "negative terminal" in the battery delete location. Then 1/0 from that terminal, through the voltage regulator "doughnut", then to the engine block ground location. Will that be enough ground for the lithium battery? 

For the amplifiers, their grounds will go to a solid distribution block, then 2 runs of 4/0 from the distro block the the alternator ground. So you think this would be correct? Sufficient? Also, should I also send a run or 2 from the lithium battery ground to the solid distro block as well? Or would that confuse the voltage regulator somehow? 

Sorry for the long question. Hopefully you can shed a whole lot of light on this for me. 

Thank you in advance

I also included a picture just incase my description was confusing

 

 

 

Notes_210903_194857.jpg

Edited by Dafaseles

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Someone should make an aftermarket voltage regulator ring for these reason so people like us can shove lots of wires threw it

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Kicker ofc rca's 

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

10 ga knukoncept speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown sa v2 d4's in parallel 

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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3 hours ago, Never Enough Bass said:

Someone should make an aftermarket voltage regulator ring for these reason so people like us can shove lots of wires threw it

That would actually help a lot! Lol

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Only if I knew how to do it that's a billion dollar idea right there whoever reads this and makes it I need 10% lmao

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06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Kicker ofc rca's 

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

10 ga knukoncept speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown sa v2 d4's in parallel 

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Never Enough Bass said:

Only if I knew how to do it that's a billion dollar idea right there whoever reads this and makes it I need 10% lmao

Well, usually what I've seen people in my position do is go externally regulated alternator, and completely bypass the controller. Then just do the big 3 like normal. 

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Yea I've seen that to I watch a lot of videos 

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Kicker ofc rca's 

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

10 ga knukoncept speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown sa v2 d4's in parallel 

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

We prefer to stay away from external regulators unless you're needing 17+ volts.  In most cases people just want a knob to be able to adjust their voltage everytime they see it move .1 or .2 volts and freak out because they think something is wrong.  External voltage regulators get abused by those not knowing why and how to use them.

 

The voltage is meant to be SET and FORGET but what happens is they'll have like 1 terrible battery, sit idling and watch their voltage drop on a 30hz 2 minute kick, see their voltage dropping and then just think, "Well, guess I better crank up the volts!".   <<<kill me now>>>

 

So if you are wanting to Ext Reg. your setup, your least concern should be a battery light coming on/staying on. 

 

What we prefer to do is just use the older 4pin NON RVC controlled part numbers in those applications. They physically fit and work just fine, but you'll need to use our P103 bypass plug to keep your charge light off. 

 

We used to offer many "adjustable" electronics for voltage and what not, but seriously everyone would buy them, wire nut install them and either complain it didn't work or would just crank them to max voltage(19+) and blow up their 12 dollar Wal Mart battery. 

 

I'm the RGA guy here so I physically SEE this when they come in.  If anyone wants more info feel free to privately contact me at [email protected] or on F-Book/Insta.  I love the forums but social media messenger has sped up the communication very well. 

 

The below video may help explain the bypassing issue I spoke about. And yes, that Tony is THIS Tony.  

 

 

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Just now, MECHMAN said:

We prefer to stay away from external regulators unless you're needing 17+ volts.  In most cases people just want a knob to be able to adjust their voltage everytime they see it move .1 or .2 volts and freak out because they think something is wrong.  External voltage regulators get abused by those not knowing why and how to use them.

 

The voltage is meant to be SET and FORGET but what happens is they'll have like 1 terrible battery, sit idling and watch their voltage drop on a 30hz 2 minute kick, see their voltage dropping and then just think, "Well, guess I better crank up the volts!".   <<<kill me now>>>

 

So if you are wanting to Ext Reg. your setup, your least concern should be a battery light coming on/staying on. 

 

What we prefer to do is just use the older 4pin NON RVC controlled part numbers in those applications. They physically fit and work just fine, but you'll need to use our P103 bypass plug to keep your charge light off. 

 

We used to offer many "adjustable" electronics for voltage and what not, but seriously everyone would buy them, wire nut install them and either complain it didn't work or would just crank them to max voltage(19+) and blow up their 12 dollar Wal Mart battery. 

 

I'm the RGA guy here so I physically SEE this when they come in.  If anyone wants more info feel free to privately contact me at [email protected]echman.com or on F-Book/Insta.  I love the forums but social media messenger has sped up the communication very well. 

 

The below video may help explain the bypassing issue I spoke about. And yes, that Tony is THIS Tony.  

 

 

I'm sorry, I was talking about the voltage controller on my truck. Not external. But you've already helped me. I was talking to you through email yesterday. 

Thanks again! I really appreciate it! 

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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