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NOOBIE CAR AUDIO BUILD NEED LOTS OF HELP 5000WATT+ TOYOTA 4 RUNNER & 2 SUNDOWN X15S


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Use a bigger bit

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06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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In most cases I'm partial to brad nails & clamps. There's never splitting issues, and in the end it's the glue that does the work. 

 

A time I prefer screws is some short ones on a multilayer baffle since they can bring the pieces together where clamps can't reach. MDF is a good material for enclosures. I prefer to work with Baltic because the dust is less toxic and I don't break my back lugging it around, but in the end you'll get a better result with a properly built MDF enclosure. Keyword properly built, MDF requires more bracing but it has better dampening than birch.

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On 9/26/2021 at 9:05 AM, CorNut said:

In most cases I'm partial to brad nails & clamps. There's never splitting issues, and in the end it's the glue that does the work. 

 

A time I prefer screws is some short ones on a multilayer baffle since they can bring the pieces together where clamps can't reach. MDF is a good material for enclosures. I prefer to work with Baltic because the dust is less toxic and I don't break my back lugging it around, but in the end you'll get a better result with a properly built MDF enclosure. Keyword properly built, MDF requires more bracing but it has better dampening than birch.

Great. I will have 4 45s and one 2 inch dowel for bracing so I hope it sounds good!! I’ll have to check out brad nails and Baltic sometime too

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Posted (edited)
On 10/4/2021 at 3:44 PM, Mattc43 said:

Still working on my box. Things will start moving a lot quicker once my box is done and painted

6663D79A-574B-4446-8BC9-D2B06332623F.thumb.jpeg.d903d48b48ff469aab705b50f8be6b21.jpeg

this box is starting to piss me off. Getting a lot of splits even tho I’m pre drilling and being careful. My other boxes have gone together well but this one has been a b*tch. This is the port 45s and I couldn’t screw the d*mn things together so I had a gap between them and had to load it with bondo. This box is gonna have a ton of bandaids but I hope it holds up ok. I’m too far to restart. 

Edited by Mattc43
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Well guys build is goin well. I’m starting to get an appreciation for car audio I didn’t have before and that is just how much work goes into building a big system. Getting close to getting my box done and painted. I’m planning on getting my electrical done, subs and box mounted in my car, installing new HU, and then I will tackle mids/highs last. So much left to do. Building a system is a marathon I’ve come to find out

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1 hour ago, Mattc43 said:

Well guys build is goin well. I’m starting to get an appreciation for car audio I didn’t have before and that is just how much work goes into building a big system. Getting close to getting my box done and painted. I’m planning on getting my electrical done, subs and box mounted in my car, installing new HU, and then I will tackle mids/highs last. So much left to do. Building a system is a marathon I’ve come to find out

You're not wrong about that my friend! 

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2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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Just installed my new HU guys! Bought a pioneer AVH-120BT. Still have my stock door speakers in and they became twice as loud and much better SQ with this new HU! Still working on my box for the 2 15s and I have been missing having a sub in my car so badly that I decided yesterday to throw my 12 in there just to get me by until the big boys are ready! Can’t wait to hear these 15s because just this one cerwin vega stroker 12” on 1000watts and stock electrical is already painfully loud when playing at its tuning (box tuned to 30). Or maybe that’s because I have had no system in my car for a couple months now 🤨 Also noticed a world of difference in sound quality with using an aftermarket head unit instead of a cheap LOC like my old system. 

I’ve noticed when playing full tilt that 12 heats up quickly and starts to distort after a few songs and I have to turn it down, let it cool, then I do it again. Coil is going to go bye bye one of these days I bet lol. Anyways new system will be tuned with dd1! Figured the 200 bucks would be worth it to protect my $1,200 worth of subs. Also my head unit only has 2 sets of rca inputs and I will have two bass amps and one multichannel. How can I get my rcas to my two bass amps with only one set of sub inputs?? Also for my remote turn on could I use the one 12v wire coming off my hu to turn on all three amps?

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