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Noob can't find help on YouTube. Enclosure first world problems


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I am so glad this forum exists. I read some of the topics and yall seem really helpful and that's so refreshing after not really finding any help on the internet. I have an 02 avalanche that right now has a 12 inch "8000w" rockville system I installed last year. Bought a Q-boom prefab box and cut a rectangular hole in an extra midgate I had. I don't have a big 3 kit on it(will be doing that before this upcoming venture), I did put in a down4sound lithium battery and its running on the stock alternator. It's not bad, can vibrate the mirrors and rear doors. 

After having this I want more! I just ordered 2 18" zvx 1-Ohm subs. I'm think about using a taramps 8000.1 amp(need opinion) and I have never built an enclosure before. The work and building doesn't bother me, I'm good at wood working although I need more tools I'm sure. Its getting the dimensions correct that I'm gonna have trouble with. 

My available dimensions are 21" tall, 48"wide, and the 60" length of the truck bed. I'm wanting to triple baffle the front where the cones will be. The outer most baffle I want to use birch so I can stain it. Not sure if birch or mdf for the rest of the box. The bed cover leaks like most avalanches so I'll be sealing it regardless. I'd appreciate the help and nice to meet yall

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That's probably more amp than you need but it's better to have it and not need it than the other way around. The ZVX's are known for being underrated though so maybe they'll take it no problem? Why 18's and not 4 12's? I've never done anything over a 15, Every time I looked at 18's it was hard to get past the enclosure requirement. It seems like you'd need a SUV to get around the baffle & port area requirements. Have you already looked at the available space, do you have enough after factoring in the port & sub displacement?

 

Not all taramps 8k's are 1 ohm stable, if you go with a pair of the dual 1 ohm 18's you mentioned, make sure you get the the 1 ohm version of the amp. You'd be able to get 1-ohm wiring those in series-parallel, with a 2-ohm amp you'll need to do series-parallel with the dual 2 ohm subs to get it back to 2-ohm for the amp. 

 

 

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The system that's in it now is 2-ohm amp and 2-ohm subs and wired series-parallel so that's not a problem for me to wire up. I thought the taramps was 1-ohm stable but I'll double check(hate to get it and find out it's not). According to skars website the enclosure needs to be 5.25 cuft per sub. That's where I need help bc I'm not sure what the displacement for the subs, port, and bracing/corners add or how to measure them. Also I don't know how u determine port length. And I don't know what tuning I want for the port. I would like to double wall the port if possible to strengthen the box

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Some Taramps 8k's are 1-ohm stable, some aren't. Just check the specs when you order. Are you planning to forward fire the port and woofers? I'm no master enclosure designer, but say you go all out and build a 15 cu ft box, you'd do somewhere around 240 sq in of port area. You'll have around 10" betwen your subs and around 18" of usable height, that only gives you 180 sq in. That means you'll have to get creative, how comfortable are you with kerfing? You'll have to do a sort of hourglass shaped port, it can be done but is that something you're wanting to take on? Btw, baltic birch looks better, it's lighter and the dust is safer (I'd still recommend a respirator). The upsides of MDF are better dampening, it's cheaper, and I've had success kerfing it. Here's an enclosure I kerfed to match my seat:   Silverado

 

Looking at the dimensions, you can probably make it work but it won't be easy. Be sure to share the progress

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1 hour ago, vtxcalibur said:

I am so glad this forum exists. I read some of the topics and yall seem really helpful and that's so refreshing after not really finding any help on the internet. I have an 02 avalanche that right now has a 12 inch "8000w" rockville system I installed last year. Bought a Q-boom prefab box and cut a rectangular hole in an extra midgate I had. I don't have a big 3 kit on it(will be doing that before this upcoming venture), I did put in a down4sound lithium battery and its running on the stock alternator. It's not bad, can vibrate the mirrors and rear doors. 

After having this I want more! I just ordered 2 18" zvx 1-Ohm subs. I'm think about using a taramps 8000.1 amp(need opinion) and I have never built an enclosure before. The work and building doesn't bother me, I'm good at wood working although I need more tools I'm sure. Its getting the dimensions correct that I'm gonna have trouble with. 

My available dimensions are 21" tall, 48"wide, and the 60" length of the truck bed. I'm wanting to triple baffle the front where the cones will be. The outer most baffle I want to use birch so I can stain it. Not sure if birch or mdf for the rest of the box. The bed cover leaks like most avalanches so I'll be sealing it regardless. I'd appreciate the help and nice to meet yall

I think 35 ft³ is enough for 2 18's, but yeah, you'll have to get creative as to port placement. Maybe do a 4th order bandpass and you won't have to deal with fitting the port around your subs

Download WinISD on your computer, and also Hornresp is a good one. They are free enclosure design programs. That will put you on the right track as to figuring out box volume, port tuning, port in², all of that. They take some time to figure out, but all you need are your max dimensions, the subwoofers T/S parameters, time, and patients. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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8 minutes ago, CorNut said:

Some Taramps 8k's are 1-ohm stable, some aren't. Just check the specs when you order. Are you planning to forward fire the port and woofers? I'm no master enclosure designer, but say you go all out and build a 15 cu ft box, you'd do somewhere around 240 sq in of port area. You'll have around 10" betwen your subs and around 18" of usable height, that only gives you 180 sq in. That means you'll have to get creative, how comfortable are you with kerfing? You'll have to do a sort of hourglass shaped port, it can be done but is that something you're wanting to take on? Btw, baltic birch looks better, it's lighter and the dust is safer (I'd still recommend a respirator). The upsides of MDF are better dampening, it's cheaper, and I've had success kerfing it. Here's an enclosure I kerfed to match my seat:   Silverado

 

Looking at the dimensions, you can probably make it work but it won't be easy. Be sure to share the progress

1 hour ago, CorNut said:

 Not exactly sure what kerfing is. My current enclosure has a rectangular port that flares out on the inside, goes straight, then flares out again at the opening. Is that what u mean? And yes I want the speakers and port facing front. I'm gonna go get a picture of my current box and post it. This is a design I found online for an avalanche but he had never built one before so it may not be the right specifications. But it's close to what I'm wanting. Screenshot_20210912-192444_Gallery.thumb.jpg.864e9a62208a84031f09d1239901631a.jpg

 

 

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kerfing is bending wood, you cut slits in it then fill the slits with fiberglass/resin to reinforce it

 

I tend to use the subboxpro site because I can never figure out winisd but that only works on simple designs. Right now I'm doing a less than simple design so I'm at a standstill until somebody smarter than me can help with the calculation. Like I said, I'm no enclosure expert. I'd like to see your setup, you already ordered the 18's so you're committed! I've never heard 18's..

 

The problem I see with that box design is what I meant about 180" of port area. 10x18=180. I think the way it works, using a port that size would be ok if you net 10-11 cu ft

 

 

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Nice, do you know what subs are in that box? I know the K9's are well regarded for their cost. The only Rockville item I installed was an OFC amp kit. I almost ordered a K9 12 numerous times but I always backed out. I was in the market again last week but I decided to go with CT Sounds.

 

Hopefully somebody else can give a better opinion on the 18" plans, I didn't do the math after subtracting port & sub displacement, but I think that port area will work as long as you don't net over 11 cu ft.

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