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Stock alt was 65amp new one is 130. Can I run 1200 watts rms now?


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I dont see anyone asking this type of question anywhere. The questions all seem to be putting higher rated amplifiers on from their stock 100,110,130 amp alt.. instead of my situation. So what if my original stock alternator was actually lower than those? By essentially doubling what mine was I should now have that extra available amps from my moderately low one now right? I'm pretty new to adding any high amount of audio power to a car so I'm trying to learn, as I prefer to do my own installs or work on my cars. So heres my question. My stock alternator was 65amps. If i do the math to try and figure out if I can put the system I want in, I believe I'll be ok, But I would like an expert oppinion. So if I do the math of 14.4 volts X 65, that gives me 936 watts. (I'm using watts cause the math seemed more simple) Based on the research I've done for figuring this, They say 50 to 60% of that is needed to run the car (89 lincoln town car). 60% being 561.6 watts.  That would leave me with an available overhead with that alt about 375 watts. Keeping this in mind I've now upgraded to a 130amp alt.  Doing the math now 14.4 volts X 130 gives me 1872 total watts I can now produce. 1872 watts minus the hypothetical 561 watts my car would need to just run (@ 60% of the original alt) I should be left with about 1,311 of overhead power now, correct? I really want to run a 1200 watt rms class D amp on this. It's the Skar 1200.1D to be exact, I know these amps want to draw more and I may get some dimming at full tilt. But these being class D are supposed to be efficient. And unless I'm blasting it full tilt and have the gains down i should be ok no? Should I consider something else in the 1000rms range? I'm on a tight budget and looking for a whole kit that slams good in the $500 range, like the skar sdr 12's I'm looking at. These look the best I can find, that are going to give me the bass I want. I've tried figuring out what my cars stock amperage draws are by adding up the fuses under the hood like some suggest, but only get ridiculous 300+ amp figures doing it that way. Any help from you guys is appreciated. 

Edited by itsjeremy87
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That is all your car really takes 130a alt will be fine worse case scenario grab a good agm battery with good amp hours and you'll be fine I have a 160a alt with 2 batteries combined getting about 160amp hours doing just fine headlights Don't even dim at full tilt pushing 3500rms

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

Waiting for 2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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Make sure you do the big 3 with 1/0 ofc wire and you'll be good don't remove wires add to them

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

Waiting for 2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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My stock alt is like 150-160a. With one AGM it was fine. Even better with the 40ah Headway lithium. No Big 3 and I charge max 13.8. Volts only drop to about 13ish when full tilt and that's running my Wolf 3K at .5ohm

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram 3K @ .5ohm

Focal PS 165v1>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear)

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Thanks for the reply guys. I had to change most of the charging wires as it was to install the new 130amp because the old G2 uses plug connectors instead of the big cables that bolt on. I actually had to have my mechanic help me figure it out (I'm typically not a ford guy). The battery is a brand new deep cycle  One thing I would add to your guys argument for your vehicles. They are much newer than mine and the electrical systems were probably over built some from the factory with all of today's electronics, verse what was coming from factories in the 80's, so that's my concern. But my main thing was the alt. If my stock one was only 65amps that means it should have only needed around 30 to 40 or so amps to run efficiently if the 50 to 60% rule of the original alts capacity were used in most cars. Some say this rule is correct? Other people say stock alternators only have around 10 to 15% reserve so that's what im trying to figure out. So adding a 130amp for me should be like you guys putting in about a 200amp alt like they typically reccomend for this system no? Not trying to burn my car down or have it run like garbage. Thanks!

Edited by itsjeremy87
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U don't use all those fuses at once you count the fuses you actually use together to find out how many amps u need like ignition that would come off your battery not your alt the fuel pump would be battery when car is off them be the alts problem so just stuff like that u have to factor in your problem

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

Waiting for 2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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Thank you. I know I'm probably pushing my electrical with this. So bottom line, make sure I have the big 3 done and I should be able to run this: https://www.skaraudio.com/collections/sdr-series-loaded-enclosures-and-subwoofer-bass-packages/products/sdr-2x12d4-rp-1200-1d-skar4anl-ofc-complete-bass-package no major problems, if my stock alt was a 65 amp and my new one is 130. Or should I shop for 1000 watts? 

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  • itsjeremy87 changed the title to Stock alt was 65amp new one is 130. Can I run 1200 watts rms now?

I personally think you'd be fine, your car originally ran off a 65a alt so by installing the 130a you're giving yourself an extra 65a overhead. 65*12v=~780 watts of extra power that can be run constantly. Of course these aren't definite numbers, but you've got to think as long as you're not playing test tones all day music is dynamic, meaning that the amount of current actually being pulled by the amp fluctuates a good bit. As long as you set the gain properly and do the big 3 I'm sure you'll be fine. You could always turn the gain down some should you have issues as well

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You 100% would be fine. You don’t even need to do a big 3 and would be fine with minimal voltage drop. A big 3 upgrade and your voltage hardly would move. So that’s the most you need to do. I have a 1500 rms amp and a 400 rms amp that I just took out the vehicle I recently bought and even when I was clipping before I tuned it before I decided to take it out, My voltage hardly moved on a stock 110 amp alternator and no big 3 and a cheap lead acid battery. I’ve ran a 1400 rms amp and then a 1500 rms amp on a stock 130 amp alternator with no upgrades and a lead acid battery and then 2 amps were nasty. The 1400 rms was a mmats dh1400.2 at 2 ohms I was clamping over 1200 rms, I was clipping some, but whatever :), and then that other amp on that vehicle was a Rockford 1500bdcp that was when I wasn’t clipping and on the bounded line of having to do a big 3 upgrade and that amp draws way more current than the amp you want. Draws about twice as much current. You are good dude.

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