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Sub clipping after setting gains - SMD DD1


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Appreciate the help so far y'all.  I'm not sure I found the "perfect" solution yet, but I'm happy where I have things set for now.

 

I am not able to leave the amp's gain where the SMD DD1 says the amp is not distorting, but it's more than loud/clean enough for now AND I am very happy with the product.  I do not believe the DD1 is the issue in my situation and look forward to using it again on future projects.  The DD1 was putting my amp around the 60-70% range of my amp's gain dial, while 30-40% seems to be the highest it can be set to run cleanly as my set up sits right now.

 

I found a setting in Spotify that "normalizes" all tracks.  I turned this off.  Doing this caused Rockford Fosgate's 40hz 0db tone to really wake up the door speakers as I set the amp's gain.  Significantly louder than before I turned off the normalize, I think.  This may had been a big issue. 

 

I also used this 40hz 0db track to set gain on the amp, which I ended up turning down quite a bit below what the DD1 said was the distortion point.  Maybe my vehicle is underpowering my amp when the gain is turned up higher.  

 

I'm keeping my phone 1 click below max volume .. can't confirm this changed anything, but things are good where they're at for now.  I can run my HU at max volume without any distortion when using my phone, I'm okay with this as it's pretty loud at max HU volume.  I might slowly bump the amp's gain up so I can use the knob to boost the bass on quieter tracks -  Paradise by Coldplay comes to mind.

 

Now at full HU volume and amp knob turned to max, the sub is very loud (this may be relative around this forum, but it shakes the truck, mirrors, and my vision a little bit) while staying crisp and clear - cleeeaan strong bass - just about what I was expecting from a single 12", 1500w amp, and sealed box.
 

I believe I'm getting a fairly good and clean power/ground connection thru the set up.  I need to check my volts at the battery and at the amp to confirm.  I was playing the song Release by Slight (found on spotify) and it was drawing enough power to dim the head lights during the lowest long notes.

 

Appreciate the input so far, I'll be back to check for anymore replies.

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7 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

Appreciate the help so far y'all.  I'm not sure I found the "perfect" solution yet, but I'm happy where I have things set for now.

 

I am not able to leave the amp's gain where the SMD DD1 says the amp is not distorting, but it's more than loud/clean enough for now AND I am very happy with the product.  I do not believe the DD1 is the issue in my situation and look forward to using it again on future projects.  The DD1 was putting my amp around the 60-70% range of my amp's gain dial, while 30-40% seems to be the highest it can be set to run cleanly as my set up sits right now.

 

I found a setting in Spotify that "normalizes" all tracks.  I turned this off.  Doing this caused Rockford Fosgate's 40hz 0db tone to really wake up the door speakers as I set the amp's gain.  Significantly louder than before I turned off the normalize, I think.  This may had been a big issue. 

 

I also used this 40hz 0db track to set gain on the amp, which I ended up turning down quite a bit below what the DD1 said was the distortion point.  Maybe my vehicle is underpowering my amp when the gain is turned up higher.  

 

I'm keeping my phone 1 click below max volume .. can't confirm this changed anything, but things are good where they're at for now.  I can run my HU at max volume without any distortion when using my phone, I'm okay with this as it's pretty loud at max HU volume.  I might slowly bump the amp's gain up so I can use the knob to boost the bass on quieter tracks -  Paradise by Coldplay comes to mind.

 

Now at full HU volume and amp knob turned to max, the sub is very loud (this may be relative around this forum, but it shakes the truck, mirrors, and my vision a little bit) while staying crisp and clear - cleeeaan strong bass - just about what I was expecting from a single 12", 1500w amp, and sealed box.
 

I believe I'm getting a fairly good and clean power/ground connection thru the set up.  I need to check my volts at the battery and at the amp to confirm.  I was playing the song Release by Slight (found on spotify) and it was drawing enough power to dim the head lights during the lowest long notes.

 

Appreciate the input so far, I'll be back to check for anymore replies.

That's good that it sounds good to you. That's always the number one thing, but you should be able to run your gain at where the DD-1 tells you with no issue. 

Some things come to mind.

What kind of vehicle is this in? 

How do you have the amplifier grounded? 

Are you using OFC wire? Or CCA?

Have you done the big 3 upgrade? 

Can you play full tilt when you first start the vehicle, but then start clipping later in the drive?

Is this a prefab box? Did you build it? Did a shop build it? 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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14 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

 

Possible.  I have not noticed any lights dimming or such though.

Could be something wrong in the amp 2

06 Charger

Pioneer double din

Pioneer 6.5 and 6×9's

Knukoncept Krystal kable rca's

0 ga knukoncept kolossus wire 

Big 3 same wire ^ 1 run 

8g karma ss speaker wire

Sundown sia 3500d at 1ohm

2 Sundown U series 12's

Duralast platinum agm H7 (Main)

Xs power d3400

Trying to find a ho alt

 

 

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14 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

That's good that it sounds good to you. That's always the number one thing, but you should be able to run your gain at where the DD-1 tells you with no issue. 

Some things come to mind.

What kind of vehicle is this in? 

How do you have the amplifier grounded? 

Are you using OFC wire? Or CCA?

Have you done the big 3 upgrade? 

Can you play full tilt when you first start the vehicle, but then start clipping later in the drive?

Is this a prefab box? Did you build it? Did a shop build it? 

 

+ 2012 F150 quad cab.

+ Grounded to the floor in the rear of the cab - I might try sanding the paint/metal more next time I am able to work on it.  AFAIK, the area I have the ground connected to is steel and not aluminum.  I still have some cables to hide under the carpet to complete the install.  I also need to figure the final position of the sub in the rear of the cab.

+ OFC wire.  I purchased a Skar 1/0 kit

+ Have not done the big 3.  At the moment I don't plan on throw more amps/subs into the equation.  I do not run the sub at full blast for long periods of time, and do not always listen to bass heavy music that draws a lot of power from the battery.  Currently, I've only found 1 song I've listened to that dims the headlights slightly on the drawn out low tones.

+ When leaving my amp's gain just below the distortion point indicated by the DD1, it was clipping immediately after starting the vehicle.  The time the engine has been on, driving/parked, etc. didn't change anything in the quality or performance of the amp or sub.

+ It's a prebuilt sealed box with 1.26cf volume.  This sub is recommended around 1cf for a sealed enclosure.

 

 

12 hours ago, Never Enough Bass said:

Could be something wrong in the amp 2

 

I've considered this as well.  Even though the amp's gain is turned way below where the DD1 said distortion starts, it is putting out quite a loud and clean signal to the sub.  The sub and amp have not become even warm to the touch or shown any signs of becoming overheated.

Edited by Big Tex db
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I have no sound deadening besides what came stock on the truck.

 

I walked around the truck today with everything on full blast.  Windows up, doors shut.  You can clearly hear what song I was playing from the door speakers and just a little bit of vibrations from the sub.  Open the door and you get blasted with a wall of quality sound.

 

It's discreet to others around, while I'm bathing in loud music on the inside.  Can't wait to get sound deadening and another amp for the mids/high to add even more quality to the sound.  I'm really quite happy with where it's at for how little time and money I've put into improving the system.  

Edited by Big Tex db
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10 hours ago, Big Tex db said:

 

+ 2012 F150 quad cab.

+ Grounded to the floor in the rear of the cab - I might try sanding the paint/metal more next time I am able to work on it.  AFAIK, the area I have the ground connected to is steel and not aluminum.  I still have some cables to hide under the carpet to complete the install.  I also need to figure the final position of the sub in the rear of the cab.

+ OFC wire.  I purchased a Skar 1/0 kit

+ Have not done the big 3.  At the moment I don't plan on throw more amps/subs into the equation.  I do not run the sub at full blast for long periods of time, and do not always listen to bass heavy music that draws a lot of power from the battery.  Currently, I've only found 1 song I've listened to that dims the headlights slightly on the drawn out low tones.

+ When leaving my amp's gain just below the distortion point indicated by the DD1, it was clipping immediately after starting the vehicle.  The time the engine has been on, driving/parked, etc. didn't change anything in the quality or performance of the amp or sub.

+ It's a prebuilt sealed box with 1.26cf volume.  This sub is recommended around 1cf for a sealed enclosure.

 

 

 

I've considered this as well.  Even though the amp's gain is turned way below where the DD1 said distortion starts, it is putting out quite a loud and clean signal to the sub.  The sub and amp have not become even warm to the touch or shown any signs of becoming overheated.

The reason I asked about the big 3, and if the problem happens after listening for a while is voltage drop. The fact that you say it happens immediately leads me to believe it's not the case. 

It's a good thing you grounded to s nice, steel piece, but it's more about the path of getting that spent energy back to the alternator. You want to get rid of bottlenecks. That's why the big 3 is such a big deal. Especially the grounds. At the very least, I would add a nice thick wire from the battery negative to the chassis, and another from the negative to the engine block. This probably won't fix your problem, but it's just s good idea. 

So, there's a couple other reasons you might be hearing a sound that sounds like the subwoofer is distorting or bottoming out. I don't think you're overdriving the sub and I don't think that enclosure is too big to the point the subwoofer suspension is losing control of the cone. So I don't think it's bottoming out.

There's a thing called lead slap or tinsel slap. It happens when the leads that connect to your speaker terminals on the subwoofer actually hit the cone when in motion. It's usually a factory defect. I've heard of people using those little felt sticky circles people use on the bottoms of their kitchen chairs to fix this problem. 

Another is the enclosure itself is bad. Maybe a loose corner or edge that has a leak, and/ or is vibrating against another part of the box, making a terrible sound. Unfortunately, it's a hard thing to pinpoint. 

 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

My build log here. Check it out! 

 

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On 11/24/2021 at 10:30 PM, Big Tex db said:

 

Everything is flat after tuning except 80hz LPF on HU.  Bass knob is set to max when setting gain on amp.

 

I can hear the sub burping, or sputtering.  It makes a repeated thud/pounding noise.  As if it's bottoming out or being stopped repeatedly.  I assume this is clipping/distortion from too much gain.

 

 

when do you hear this? Does it change with volume?

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Didn't read anything. 

Is the dd1 just "blinking" the distortion light? That isnt anything. Also, is your signal light on, when this happens?

The distortion light, just "blinking" for a split second, is NOT set point. Fyi

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17 hours ago, MrSkippyJ said:

when do you hear this? Does it change with volume?

 

A combination of remote knob turned down some, but HU turning up would cause it.  Or, HU turned down some and remote knob turning up would cause it.  This was after setting the amp's gain via the distortion light turning on continuously, then backing off until it turned off. 

I tried tuning the gains with the remote knob at 50% and 75% but the DD1 would not show me a continuous distortion light even when I had the amp gain all the way up to 100%.  Once I realized this, I've always had the remote knob at 100% when tuning the amp's gain.

 

 

13 hours ago, Kyblack76 said:

Didn't read anything. 

Is the dd1 just "blinking" the distortion light? That isnt anything. Also, is your signal light on, when this happens?

The distortion light, just "blinking" for a split second, is NOT set point. Fyi

 

It is not just blinking.  I've noticed the distortion light consistently blinking 1 or 2 times before I would find the point the distortion light would turn on continuously.  Just like in many of Meade's instructional videos on YouTube.

 

Yes my signal light is on. 

 

 

18 hours ago, Dafaseles said:

That's why the big 3 is such a big deal. Especially the grounds. At the very least, I would add a nice thick wire from the battery negative to the chassis, and another from the negative to the engine block. This probably won't fix your problem, but it's just s good idea. 

So, there's a couple other reasons you might be hearing a sound that sounds like the subwoofer is distorting or bottoming out. I don't think you're overdriving the sub and I don't think that enclosure is too big to the point the subwoofer suspension is losing control of the cone. So I don't think it's bottoming out.

There's a thing called lead slap or tinsel slap. It happens when the leads that connect to your speaker terminals on the subwoofer actually hit the cone when in motion. It's usually a factory defect. I've heard of people using those little felt sticky circles people use on the bottoms of their kitchen chairs to fix this problem. 

Another is the enclosure itself is bad. Maybe a loose corner or edge that has a leak, and/ or is vibrating against another part of the box, making a terrible sound. Unfortunately, it's a hard thing to pinpoint. 

 

I am considering the big 3 upgrade in the future.  I want to do more research on alternators, batteries, and such before moving on with further audio projects for this truck.  I've just recently started a new career and might purchase another truck within the next year.  Not sure how committed I am to spending more money on the current truck.

 

The box looked and felt solid during installation of the sub.  All of the corners and bracings appeared to be secure and sealed.  It had decent reviews online, but who knows if they were throwing a 1000sub in their box.  I do plan to build my own box when I have the time and plan to get as close to the 1cu ft recommended by Soundstream.

 

I've read wishy-washy opinions about adding stuffing to a sealed box.  I currently have nothing added inside of this box.  Any thoughts on this?

Edited by Big Tex db
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